Noticed a lil bit of vibration in the steering wheel at higher speeds... Maybe over 60 65mph'ish... Any know common reasons?

 

most likely its un balanced tires.

 

Might be the control compliance busing. I'm about to replace all of the bushings.

 

its either unbalanced tires, alignment or your tires are bad...

 

I've had my tires road force balance, alined with brand new tires and the vibration continued...

 

Def want to do bushings

 

it could be bad tires, rims, road, unbalanced wheels...theres alot of things, start with those.

 

When the tires were 'road-force' balanced, did you watch? and verify that the runout on the tires was less than 0.019 inches? What that means is that the balance machine can check the amount of non-symetry in the diameter of the tires. That is, the tires, while mounted on the wheel, should be perfectly round to within 0.019 inches or less. Otherwise, the tires tend to 'bounce' up-and-down as they roll down the road.

The Hunter GSP-6000, and the 7000 (better) were the first machines to perform a road-force balance. My Discount Tire only has the 6000 but it seems to work OK.

If the runnout of the wheel/tire set is too much, the 7000 can easily measure the runout of the wheel as well, and then match the high spot of the tire to the low spot of the wheel, minimizing the total runout of the mounted tire on the wheel.

Depending upon the brand of tire that you have, and how many miles on the tires, which means that the tires may have worn un-evenly, you may not be able to obtain a reasonable measurement for the out-of-round(ness).

I once forced SEARS to replace a set of GoodYear tires because they were not *round*, bad enough that they 'bounced' on my old '72 Ford van. I figure that since they were GoodYears, a reputable tire company, that they were seconds or rejects sold through SEARS. They were on sale (I am cheap).

Michelins are the most 'round' tires available. Some cheap tires are impossible to get within 0.019 inches runout. Discount Tire considers <0.022 acceptable.

If this is of more interest, and you are really having a problem, then ask your Acura dealer for a copy of SERVICE NEWS ARTICLE January 2008 issue, which discusses the above, plus how to match the wheels to the hubs, to match the 'heavy' point of the wheel to the light point of the disk rotor.

The SERVICE NEW ARTICLES are online somewhere on this forum, which is where I found my copy.

 

I'm surprised nobody mentioned a bad axle..

 

^ that's right, a bent axle or damaged blancer will the trick

 

I always have my tires road forced balance at a local speed shop that uses a hunter machine. I watch them and they provided a print out. My tires are within the run out specs. In addition, I have them do an alignment also. I know my bushings are bad as well as my motor mounts. I about to have all of them replaced.

 

All of the above posts are within reason.
But don't go replacing parts if you don't need them.

Correct me if I'm wrong but,
Axles are common replacements in our cars, and have vibration issues Under load.
An out of balance tire/bent wheel will have highway vibrations at speed or braking.
Bushings will cause the same effect as a out of balance wheel, though maybe not as noticeable, more so during braking (when stress is applied on the bushing).
Motor mounts will also cause vibrations but, a lot of the problems with motor mounts are usually caused at idle and are usually paired with other clunking in the engine bay.

Just an example: My TL with 6MT, has vibration only under load (meaning when my foot is on the gas) between 30-35 and then 60-65. If i coast thru any of these speeds, there is ZERO vibration. If i apply braking pressure thru any of these speeds: Nothing. Smooth as butter.
I believe it was either mounts or axles.I then put my TL on a lift, and determined my passenger side axle had excessive play in the inner cv joint. Problem found.