SO I've been having this issue the last day or two with my 08 Type-S 6MT

I recently replaced my shift linkage bushings with Heeltoe's Hybrid Racing set. In order to do so, I had to remove the stock air box completely to get in there and actually do the job. Not a big deal and it's something I have done before.

Replaced the bushings, put everything back together. I took some carb cleaner and cleaned the inside butterfly valve on the throttle body because it had some black residue inside. I've done this before to fix a sticky gas pedal issue on my 01' Tahoe and figured I might as well clean it since it was already open and right in front of me.

I put everything back together, and have been having weird idling issues.

When I'm driving its fine, when I start it up it starts and doesn't sound funny. Only thing is when I pop it in neutral or hold the clutch in, RPMs drop to 1500, then 1k, then back up slightly and hover around 1200. I'm not sure why; I checked everything again and tightened the air box clamp a little more on the throttle body and it didn't help. Its not causing a CEL either, but probably poor gas mileage as I coast a lot by holding the clutch or popping it in neutral.

About a month ago I had idling issues where the car would nearly shut off, but it was the opposite; car was idling too low (around 700), not idling too high. That issue caused a CEL too and I cleaned the Evap and it all went away.

Help?

 

Some carb cleaners are too harsh and ruin the finish on the throttle plate/body. Is yours sticking open?
Also try a ECM reset. Pull the battery cables and hold the together for 30 seconds to erase the computers memory. Reinstall and start cat with all accessories off and don't touch throttle. Let idle till fans run twice and see if it is back to normal.

 

Hold the battery cables together? seriously? I've honestly never heard of that?

I thought about taking the battery cables off for a bit and seeing if that changed anything though. I'll try it tomorrow.

 

what he said ^

 

what makk said

 

It is a Honda/Acura recommended procedure for safely clearing the memory of the computers. Once the battery is unhooked, the cables can safely be held together as the vehicle is now non-powered. It will reset the memory, much like a reboot on your home computer.

 

hahaaa

 

Still had the problem today; didn't get a chance to remove the cables and reset yet though.

 

Haven't removed the battery yet but I took a video of what it's doing.


This is with me parked idling. I rev it up to 3k and let go of the gas. It drops, rises, then slowly drops back down to 800.. Sometimes it goes back up again to 1200ish, sometimes not.

Hope this works;

2419DF6F-D716-471A-8D25-802D27F916EF-163-00000057CEA2B648_zps4489fc6e.mp4

If not here's a direct link

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y34...ps4489fc6e.mp4

 

Bump

 

I'm not sure of this battery memory clearing technique described here but seems pretty easy to figure out what happened. Over time like you know crap builds up on the throttle plate. The more crap builds up the more the ecm senses the throttle plate being closed at more of an angle. Once you cleaned the plate and the throttle body housing the ecm is still telling the plate that fully closed is at a certain spot when it's not since there is no more carbon built up. It is only off a hair which is why it's reving slightly higher.

I read somewhere here someone resetting their throttle or something like that. I tried to do a quick search and couldn't find the steps to reset it. I think it was something like turn the key to the on position with your foot to the floor for 5 seconds then turn key to the off position and release the throttle and let it sit for 5 min before starting the car. I may have missed something or the correct step order but if everything was put back together properly this would be a good start.

 

a) Look for a disconnected vacuum hose, since there was work on the air box. If there is a loose hose, reconnect it.

b) Idle relearn/ECU reset:
1. Disconnect battery for 30 minutes.
2. Reconnect battery, turn on car with climate control and accessories all OFF.
3. Let car idle for 15 minutes.

G/L.

 

Found this in the RL section. Not sure if it applies to Tl's as well. I wouldn't see why it wouldn't. If it doesn't work disconnect the battery for a little and hook it back up.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/joy-ecu-reset-878763/

 

As mentioned the battery clearing technique is what H/A describes in its service manuals, s that is gold. I think there is still something wrong with crud on the throttle plate or you have damaged the finish using a harsh carb cleaner. Check and see if the throttle is closing at idle.

 

I imagine disconnecting the battery would accomplish the same as the throttle reset only the computer will have to relearn everything else.

I already explained what probably happened with the carbon. The cleaner even if it damaged the finish wouldn't really effect much, but a nice build up of carbon would.

Also if the throttle is closed at idle the car wouldn't be running.

 

You are misunderstanding what I am saying. H/A has numerous bulletins for sticking throttles causing high idle due to the finish being worn off. The finish allows the throttle plate to return to its near closed position smoothly, when the finish is compromised it binds and has poor return to idle. The only fix is to replace throttle body.

 

Hmm odd....didn't see any in the full Tl tsb section.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-technical-service-bulletins-tsbs-3g-garage-j-016-a-613659/

 

MDX and Odyssey had TSB's for it so reasons the TL could also suffer this fate if a harsh carb cleaner was used. Only air intake cleaner should be used to clean a TB.

 

I highly doubt that is the issue here.

 

Shocking.

 

you cannot open the throttle body ever! YOU HAVE TO turn the key to on and hold on the gas pedal and the throttle plate will open, go in for the clean but never open it, if so.... you have to do a idle relearn. do you know how to>?

 

Well not sure if you know but generally if there is a tsb with a vehicle that involves certain parts especially ones that had an issue enough to write a tsb would also be involved in that tsb. So if the TL was involved in that problem it would state that as well.

 

Really? After 17 years as a Honda/Acura tech your advice is welcome. And by welcome I mean thanks for your generic boxer engine google ideas.

 

Interesting point of views

I've heard something about a throttle reset also and it had something to do with holding the has peddle for a few seconds; I just can't remember it clearly


Makk: I understand about the throttle body thing but I don't think I used anything too harsh. It was just walmart's carb cleaner not anything heavy duty but I could be wrong.

Ill have to do the battery reset or google the idle relearn process. Just haven't had a chance to; been busy and it's been 20 degrees or less out every day so it's hard to get the motivation to get up (although gas mileage probably sucks ass so I really should fix this issue)

Thanks guys for your input. Ill report back soon with any updates.

 

Then you understand my point or should. Being a tech for 17 years doesn't mean you're a gold tech. I'm not the one saying to make sure the throttle body is closed at idle.

 

you dont have to disconnect the battery.

turn your car to "on" and turn off climate and radio
turn car off
push the gas pedal to the floor and turn key to the "on" position (dont turn it on)
hold position for 30 seconds
turn key off
remove foot from pedal
start car and drive it like you stole it
done

 

^^This

 

Listsen clown, if you are as shit hot as you think you are, you would know the throttle has a closed position which is still approx 5% open. That is what I was getting at. I am done.

 

Uhh right..... I don't think I'm hot shit at all but I do actually fix cars. Sounds like you're a maintenance type guy and push off the hard work on everyone else if you can't comprehend closed and open position. Closed position is closed position. If at idle the throttle on a honda/acura is open 5% like you claim then the throttle is open 5% at idle not closed but open to 5%. I'd expect someone with 17 years of experience to know the difference from an open and closed throttle.


Closed:

• Not open.
• (of a business) Having ceased trading, esp. for a short period: "he put the “Closed” sign up on the door".

Synonyms
shut - close

Your anger, name calling, and terminology that contradicts itself just proves that you know you're wrong and trying to cover it up. It's really no big deal to say you misspoke instead of talking jibberish.

 

Suparu, your dumfuckery as a tech is showing. You would know that every vehicle on the planet has a closed throttle and a wide open throttle spec, as well as every degree in between. All vehicles, I repeat, all vehicles have a closed throttle spec. Whether that is 5 degrees or 4 or 6, it is all the same. For you to imply that I think closed is zero shows you have no fucking clue about vehicles.
If you want to get into a pissing contest on tech education level, bring it on fuckwad. You offer nothing more than twisting words and offering your google hypothesis.

 

Oh no ruffled your feathers even more did I??? More guilt. It's ok. If you have some fact to back up that closed is 5% open I invite the proof. Again you're ego has you owning yourself. I would have loved to been there when the spec guy came up with a number showing the throttle was open and still called it a closed spec. My guess is they didn't. My tech skills aren't in question here, I'm not talking in circles trying to convince someone open means closed. you have access to Honda's online system and service manuals just like I do Subaru's, it should be very easy for you to show the closed spec being open of you were correct.

 

See they have an open and closed spec, not a closed but open at 5% during idle spec. Closed is 0% open.

 

If the throttle is fully closed (0%) during idle, than how will the car idle without stalling?

Does our TB have a passage go around the throttle plate to achieve idle? If it does, than 0% is understandable. If not, the throttle plate should still be slightly opened.

When checking for WOT % using a scan tool, some vehicles don't show 100%. Some vehicles will only display 75% - 90% and that will be considered "WOT". Same for idle..

 

I've noticed that on my handheld code reader but using the ssm3 (Subaru computer) it goes to 100%. I thought I was having an issue but when I hooked up the correct computer it read 100%.

 

Hey google tech, can you explain why a TL does not stall if the throttle is not open 5% when idling? Well dumfuck, it does not have an idle air control valve. Hmmm, maybe cause the ECM holds the throttle open approximatly 5% to allow it to run even though b definition the throttle is closed.
Do you know why the google image you posted shows 0.46 volts at fully closed? Because the 5.0 reference voltage sees a return signal of 0.46 as the throttle is slightly open, even though it reads closed position.
Hopefully your employer is reading this or you may never rise above the apprenticeship level.

 

Actually that is strait off subarunet.com. That is just a reference to make sure you're with in spec. I still see no proof that the throttle plate is closed at idle. Sounds to me that you went to work today and tried to ask a smarter tech then you about it. You're a fraud tech, but I'm still waiting for your proof the throttle is closed at idle. You clearly state it is open at idle and state it's closed. Where does it state it's closed? Prove it. Just that simple. Since you claim to be this master technician should be easy for you to find.

 

Oh noes the subie google boy is confused. Please explain how a TL idles if the throttle is not open 5% at closed throttle position?

 

please don't get the thread closed lol.

 

it seems to be a trend with Subpar.

 

He truly is a troll or too stupid for words.