Just a list of things needed for a tune up. Not asking for a how-to or parts needed but what needs to be replaced, thanks

04 non navi AT 74K miles

Edit: By the way if I plan on using sea foam(gas tank and throttle), should I do it before new fuel filter/plugs or after new stuff, thanks

 

See the manual on the Maintenance Minder codes. My '05 manual has the codes at p. 209: https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...505O00204A.pdf

You're probably at the stage where the auto trans fluid and brake fluid need to be changed out if not already done, but not yet at the point where spark plugs need to be replaced or valves adjusted.

 

74 is a good time to replace the NGK Iridium spark plugs for max performance and mileage.
Seafoam in 1/2 tank of gas, and the intake manifold about a week before plug change.
There is no replaceable fuel filter (based on gen2)
Brake fluid needs to be replaced every year starting at year 3- so do that
Engine air filter if needed
Cabin air filter every year

 

Alright thanks yall.

01tl4tl, I hear your the man when it comes to plugs, thanks for chiming in.

Part # for plugs, thanks

by the way, are denzos any good, parts store say thats all they carry.

 

denso are the only other plug approved by acura
but
PROVEN by ziners who drive huge miles (250,000 miles so far on 1 car)
to last about 30k miles and cost more!!,

while the NGK perform good about 60-70k miles, and will last until the scheduled replacement at 105 with timing belt,,,
but with gas prices- it quickly pays off to get 1-2+ mpg better right now

seafoam,spark plugs, engine air and cabin air filters - thats a complete TL tune up!
we dont have fuel filter in the normal sense, no plug wires or cap and rotor,,,

Do treat the ignition coils like moms expensive china plates- they break inside like lightbulbs- the slightest drop will damage it

Have fun!

 

kragen has NGK- look in the phone book for import parts stores- they will have the right plug for you as most japanese cars use ngk-

type S takes a different plug, so just tell the parts counter person what year and model you drive
Get the 1 dollar tube of thread antisieze- use sparingly on middle threads of new plugs
read the DIY on plug change for great tips

 

I agree with 01tl4tl.

A cheaper alternative if you like to do things yourself is to use regular or platinum plugs and change them a little more often. The only real benefit to irridiums is long life, not performance. If you want to put them in and forget about them for another 70,000+, go with the irridiums. If you don't mind changing every 30,000 go with regular plugs.

FWIW, I've been running platinums for a while now (one heat range colder due to pinging problems). Even though the car only had 30,000 on it at the time, idle quality improved with new plugs. I'm not saying it was the platinums that did it, just the fact that they were new.

 

Seaform before you replace the plugs.

 

Hey thanks for the info. I have pinging problems too. How do I tell them that I need a colder plug(or however u say it) I think Ill stick to iridium this time around.

Thanks all for inputs

By the way, through where do I pour the seafoam, on my old F150 I would do it through the booster vacuum, dont know much about Acuras yet. Thanks

 

Would it be a good alternative to just open up the gap on the plugs to get a weaker spark instead of running a colder plug?

 

Part of the numbering system on the plug is heat range info.

For example, the stuff I'm used to are AC Delco plugs. Mine are as follows: AC Delco cr42ts. c=commercial (bigger electrode) r=resistor 42=heat range with a higher number being hotter ts=tapered seat.

Pretty much all manufacturers use something like that but I'm not too familiar with the import stuff. Store employees should be able to figure it out based on your stock plugs. Just tell them you want a one step colder plug. I was unable to find what I needed in irridiums but you may have better luck.

 

Not exactly. The heat range is how quickly the plug can dissipate heat from the center electrode. A hotter plug is more resistant to fouling but can cause a hot spot in the combustion chamber if too hot and cause pre-ignition.

Opening the gap can be bad for our coil on plug design. I've heard they're not very tolerant of the higher energy required to jump a larger gap and it may cause coil failure.

 

Ahh yes, you are right. Good for you man, you know your stuff! It's been a while since I worked on cars. I was told that opening up the gap may help the car run smoother but risk coil failure if too wide.

 

the main vac port for doing seafoam is located at the TB to manifold area-
look for a hose with squeeze clamp on it- only one like it

 

That is right, opening the gap (assuming there's enough energy to jump the gap) will make the car run smoother with a slight bump in power. I used to do it all the time on my other cars. About the coil on plug being sensitive to large gaps, I don't know if it's true or not but many people (non-TLers) have reported failures and I'm too poor to try it out.

 

To I Hate Cars, how do I ask for a plug like yours. What exactly did u buy???? I wanna do a heat range colder like urs but when I asked at the local parts store they looked at me funny.... thanks for ur help


BTW, whats the exact name for the denzos or iridiums that are approved for our cars, thanks

 

follow exactly what most recommend and definitely seafoam and repeat after 2000 miles

 

for the seafoam i reccommend the sip sip method. go out and buy some 1/4" clear tubing from homo depot, it's cheap, probably 25cents/ft or something. this guy on youtube does it exactly how i would do it. make sure you have a lot of heat in your engine and after it sucks up half a bottle, let it sit for 10-15min before you turn it back on and rev it up real good. take it for a spin after as well. put the other half in your gas tank. do this about a week before you are going to get your plugs changed and also make sure you do an oil change, that's very important with the seafoam as well. i just helped my roommate seafoam his bmw on the weekend and it sure was a smoke show! here's the youtube video of a guy doing it on his 05 TL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQ1wpO6Oj8E

 

here's the video of the bmw we did it on last weekend, that's my tl beside it which i will be doing the seafoam on in another 2 months or so, i just had the oil changed a few weeks ago

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPropnOnQmI

 

Alright thanks. I did the sea foam. I bought the clear tube, did it exactly like the vid. I took about 17 minutes and used about half a bottle. When I finished, I let it sit for about 25 minutes. Turned it on, drove it for about 5 minutes at 4K, CEL came on so I backed off. Parked I reved it to about 4K also, no smoke, just a little like always.

Ive heard I should do this again in 2k miles. Can I change the plugs now, or wait until I do this at 2K miles?

Guess Ill be using the densos, they are 8 compared to 22 each for the ngks!!!!

 

seafoam reccommends you do it again in 2-5k miles, i'm not very experienced with it but from what i've read you don't need to do it again or that often, especially if you didn't even experience much smoke then it probably doesn't need it. did you also put some in the gas tank and crank case? if you are going to do it again in 2k miles then i suggest to wait till after the next treatment to change your oil and plugs

 

Yes I did 1/2 a bottle into throttle and a full one into gas with about 6 gallons of fuel in it. I cant wait for th oil change, its at 15% already. Guess Ill do the plugs later.

 

I would just go ahead and do the plugs now, change the oil, check your fluids, and check your filters. As far as seafoam, next time use a 16oz with half a tank and use a 12oz Deep Creep aerosol can for your vac port so that you can also clean your TB butterfly plate. Do not worry about how much smoke, if any, comes out.

I'm not sure if it's cause of the oil I used, but after doing an oil change using Royal Purple, I've been getting a lot more mpg's. Seafoam also participated.