Transmission Whine or Something Else?
12-11-2010, 07:00 PM
#1
Transmission Whine or Something Else?
I recently bought an '06 TL with 167,000 miles that is in excellent condition. The previous owner drove it almost always on the highway so I felt confident that it was good to go for many more miles. When I test drove it, I noticed that it had a slight whining sound when accelerating thru the gears - mostly in 1-3. I figured it was the power steering pump issue or maybe the belt tensioner and didn't think much of it.
Now, I have it home and am getting concerned that it may be the torque converter or transmission. It does not make the sound at all when in Park or when I power brake it - only when I accelerate thru the gears. It increases in loudness and pitch as the rpms increase. I have pulled the fuse on the radio so I know its not coming from the speakers. The sound is similar to a supercharger.
It also has a howling sound when cruising at a constant speed - a similar howl to when the rear end on a truck is going out (I had a Ranger that had this). Right now the sound is very faint but I'm afraid this is the start of something bad.
I have read all the threads on here for all issues related to this and most people are getting a reman trans. from the dealer under warranty - an option I don't have.
Can anyone offer me any advice on other test I can do to ensure it is the transmission? Is there some way to tell if it is the whole trans or possibly just some component in the torque converter?
Is this a bearing going out in the transmission somewhere?
Now, I have it home and am getting concerned that it may be the torque converter or transmission. It does not make the sound at all when in Park or when I power brake it - only when I accelerate thru the gears. It increases in loudness and pitch as the rpms increase. I have pulled the fuse on the radio so I know its not coming from the speakers. The sound is similar to a supercharger.
It also has a howling sound when cruising at a constant speed - a similar howl to when the rear end on a truck is going out (I had a Ranger that had this). Right now the sound is very faint but I'm afraid this is the start of something bad.
I have read all the threads on here for all issues related to this and most people are getting a reman trans. from the dealer under warranty - an option I don't have.
Can anyone offer me any advice on other test I can do to ensure it is the transmission? Is there some way to tell if it is the whole trans or possibly just some component in the torque converter?
Is this a bearing going out in the transmission somewhere?
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R_R4 (12-09-2012)
12-12-2010, 12:56 PM
#2
take a sample oil drain from trans, or just do a 3 qt fluid change now and see how it reacts
see post by memebr `I Hate Cars` for options of Redline brand trans fluid,,been doing well in test,, but with a noise now- cant guarantee that will go away
if its a tq or big problem you would know it by sloppy shifting
Had the cv bearings cked etc?
see post by memebr `I Hate Cars` for options of Redline brand trans fluid,,been doing well in test,, but with a noise now- cant guarantee that will go away
if its a tq or big problem you would know it by sloppy shifting
Had the cv bearings cked etc?
12-12-2010, 02:56 PM
#3
I changed to Redline racing ATF a few weeks ago but the sound is the same. It shifts really well - firm, quick, and smooth.
I am thinking that it is most likely a differential bearing or shaft but can't put my finger on it exactly.
Has anyone ever rebuilt the differential on one of these?
I am thinking that it is most likely a differential bearing or shaft but can't put my finger on it exactly.
Has anyone ever rebuilt the differential on one of these?
12-12-2010, 04:18 PM
#4
Team Owner
Sounds like the diff, I would say it nearly rules the convertor out since it does not do it when powerbraking.
Mine has done the same since it was brand new. I can hear it in the first 3 gears then the road noise and wind noise drowns it out.
Does it get louder with harder acceleration and is it louder in 1st than second or third?
The bearing sound *usually* will stay the same regardless of power being applied while gear noise gets worse under power. Bearings usually have a grinding sound associated with them. But.... a bad bearing can cause excessive play in the gears which will cause gear noise.
I know this doesn't help much. I guess the real question is just how loud is it? I can hear mine under acceleration but you have to really listen. It hasn't gotten any worse in the last 100,000 miles so I don't really worry about it.
Mine has done the same since it was brand new. I can hear it in the first 3 gears then the road noise and wind noise drowns it out.
Does it get louder with harder acceleration and is it louder in 1st than second or third?
The bearing sound *usually* will stay the same regardless of power being applied while gear noise gets worse under power. Bearings usually have a grinding sound associated with them. But.... a bad bearing can cause excessive play in the gears which will cause gear noise.
I know this doesn't help much. I guess the real question is just how loud is it? I can hear mine under acceleration but you have to really listen. It hasn't gotten any worse in the last 100,000 miles so I don't really worry about it.
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R_R4 (12-09-2012)
12-12-2010, 04:57 PM
#5
I appreciate your response and am starting to breathe easier about the situation after hearing that others have had this same noise for some time.
It seems to be the same loudness regardless of the gear or power applied. 1-3 is louder than 4th and 5th. I can still hear it in the top gears but it is more when I am cruising and it starts to sound like the typical rear end howl on other cars (trucks). I can barely hear this but it is there.
The loudness is not concerning at this point, but I have nothing to compare it too. I plan to test drive some other cars this week to see if others have the same problem and how loud they are.
Do you know if a differential repair can be done with the trans in the car?
It seems to be the same loudness regardless of the gear or power applied. 1-3 is louder than 4th and 5th. I can still hear it in the top gears but it is more when I am cruising and it starts to sound like the typical rear end howl on other cars (trucks). I can barely hear this but it is there.
The loudness is not concerning at this point, but I have nothing to compare it too. I plan to test drive some other cars this week to see if others have the same problem and how loud they are.
Do you know if a differential repair can be done with the trans in the car?
12-12-2010, 06:40 PM
#6
Team Owner
I appreciate your response and am starting to breathe easier about the situation after hearing that others have had this same noise for some time.
It seems to be the same loudness regardless of the gear or power applied. 1-3 is louder than 4th and 5th. I can still hear it in the top gears but it is more when I am cruising and it starts to sound like the typical rear end howl on other cars (trucks). I can barely hear this but it is there.
The loudness is not concerning at this point, but I have nothing to compare it too. I plan to test drive some other cars this week to see if others have the same problem and how loud they are.
Do you know if a differential repair can be done with the trans in the car?
It seems to be the same loudness regardless of the gear or power applied. 1-3 is louder than 4th and 5th. I can still hear it in the top gears but it is more when I am cruising and it starts to sound like the typical rear end howl on other cars (trucks). I can barely hear this but it is there.
The loudness is not concerning at this point, but I have nothing to compare it too. I plan to test drive some other cars this week to see if others have the same problem and how loud they are.
Do you know if a differential repair can be done with the trans in the car?
How did the magnet look the last time you did a drain and fill? Usually a bearing issue will shed a ton of metal.
If you could confirm it's only a gear issue, personally I would ignore it and do nothing unless it gets worse.
If you can hear it in 4th and 5th, it's worse than mine but every TL I've driven has had a slight gear whine.
There's always the off chance it can be a bearing inside the trans, the possibility of the torque convertor is still there but not likely. The fact that it does not change with load would almost point to something else.
You may want to search around in the 2G section, I remember there was an issue with bearing failures in the final drive. They may have more specific info and diagnostics.
Good luck, hopefully you can keep us updated if/when you find the issue. As I said, I've had it since I bought the car with 8 miles on it and it will hit 100,000 early next year and the noise has not gotten any worse.
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R_R4 (12-09-2012)
12-13-2010, 12:19 PM
#7
take an oil sample and send for analysis
that will tell what metals in what concentrations are present
If a bearing is shedding bits--that will let you know
that will tell what metals in what concentrations are present
If a bearing is shedding bits--that will let you know
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12-13-2010, 01:41 PM
#8
Team Owner
The problem with those tests is they won't always catch a large failure. They can only read a certain particle size and if the particles are too large, they won't be picked up. I've had two huge engine failures that happened over the course of half a year that they did not pick up. The are better at picking up minor wear.
12-14-2010, 08:00 PM
#9
Drifting
mine makes the same noise in first gear. but if I take off lightly, I dont hear much. Its worse when I take off harder. But even then I dont really hear anything in 2 or 3rd or 4th. except maybe once in a blue moon and even then i'll have to squint to hear it. So I guess i am fortunate..
12-29-2010, 01:03 PM
#10
It could be your heatsheild. I had a similar problem at acceleration which sounded like a grinding/rattling noise at a certain RPM. When I lifted the car, the heatsheild and nuts that covered the catalytic converter were rusted. I've replaced the heatshield & nuts and BINGO, no more noise. 
12-29-2010, 01:21 PM
#11
Thanks, I have checked the heat shield though. It is secured properly. I can hear it slightly on occasion, but that is a different noise.
I now know that my problem is a worn differential carrier bearing that is causing the misalignment and noise in the final output gear.
This is a problem that many final gear systems eventually have.
As these KA5AT transmissions are beginning to get higher mileage, people are beginning to start siting this as a problem.
It is just a matter of time before it gets to the point of needing a transmission rebuild to replace the bearings. Sometimes this can last a long time with the noise and sometimes it goes out more quickly.
I am just hoping that mine will last a lot longer before needing the rebuild.
I now know that my problem is a worn differential carrier bearing that is causing the misalignment and noise in the final output gear.
This is a problem that many final gear systems eventually have.
As these KA5AT transmissions are beginning to get higher mileage, people are beginning to start siting this as a problem.
It is just a matter of time before it gets to the point of needing a transmission rebuild to replace the bearings. Sometimes this can last a long time with the noise and sometimes it goes out more quickly.
I am just hoping that mine will last a lot longer before needing the rebuild.
12-29-2010, 01:27 PM
#12
Team Owner
Thanks, I have checked the heat shield though. It is secured properly. I can hear it slightly on occasion, but that is a different noise.
I now know that my problem is a worn differential carrier bearing that is causing the misalignment and noise in the final output gear.
This is a problem that many final gear systems eventually have.
As these KA5AT transmissions are beginning to get higher mileage, people are beginning to start siting this as a problem.
It is just a matter of time before it gets to the point of needing a transmission rebuild to replace the bearings. Sometimes this can last a long time with the noise and sometimes it goes out more quickly.
I am just hoping that mine will last a lot longer before needing the rebuild.
I now know that my problem is a worn differential carrier bearing that is causing the misalignment and noise in the final output gear.
This is a problem that many final gear systems eventually have.
As these KA5AT transmissions are beginning to get higher mileage, people are beginning to start siting this as a problem.
It is just a matter of time before it gets to the point of needing a transmission rebuild to replace the bearings. Sometimes this can last a long time with the noise and sometimes it goes out more quickly.
I am just hoping that mine will last a lot longer before needing the rebuild.
I know you already know this but I would be more worried if the sound begins getting louder. As long as it stays the same it's probably not worth pulling the trans over.
I know you said you're on Redline, is it all "racing" or did you mix it with the lightweight racing? It might be time for some band-aids like pure "racing" fluid since it's slightly thicker at 10cSt than Z1 at 7cSt. It won't make much of a difference if any but you never know.
12-29-2010, 02:40 PM
#13
Yep, I'm running full Redline Racing fluid - no light weight. Ever since I changed it I notice that it now lurches forward slightly when I start it cold. I suppose some of the plates are sticking together. Does yours do this? I'm not really concerned about it but thought it was interesting. I'm running the D4 in my Odyssey and it does it too but not as bad.
The transmission guy I talked with seemed very good and told me that the whine is somewhat common and it was just an indication of the long term problem. He said there was no reason to be concerned in the short term and it may last a lot longer. He said that the trigger for tearing it down is when you can hear the whine get really loud or at idle (if a TC bearing starts to go). He brought me in the back and showed me the internals of the trans and showed me the bearings. He also said the internal filter is what is the biggest concern now - it is probably loaded up.
When I did my fluid change, the drain bolt was full with shavings.
I put a Magnafine filter on it and removed the paper filter. I will keep doing what I can to keep it in order. I have conceded to the fact that this could happen to any car that I bought and I can't afford one that is still under warranty.
The transmission guy I talked with seemed very good and told me that the whine is somewhat common and it was just an indication of the long term problem. He said there was no reason to be concerned in the short term and it may last a lot longer. He said that the trigger for tearing it down is when you can hear the whine get really loud or at idle (if a TC bearing starts to go). He brought me in the back and showed me the internals of the trans and showed me the bearings. He also said the internal filter is what is the biggest concern now - it is probably loaded up.
When I did my fluid change, the drain bolt was full with shavings.
I put a Magnafine filter on it and removed the paper filter. I will keep doing what I can to keep it in order. I have conceded to the fact that this could happen to any car that I bought and I can't afford one that is still under warranty.
12-29-2010, 03:02 PM
#14
Team Owner
Yep, I'm running full Redline Racing fluid - no light weight. Ever since I changed it I notice that it now lurches forward slightly when I start it cold. I suppose some of the plates are sticking together. Does yours do this? I'm not really concerned about it but thought it was interesting. I'm running the D4 in my Odyssey and it does it too but not as bad.
The transmission guy I talked with seemed very good and told me that the whine is somewhat common and it was just an indication of the long term problem. He said there was no reason to be concerned in the short term and it may last a lot longer. He said that the trigger for tearing it down is when you can hear the whine get really loud or at idle (if a TC bearing starts to go). He brought me in the back and showed me the internals of the trans and showed me the bearings. He also said the internal filter is what is the biggest concern now - it is probably loaded up.
When I did my fluid change, the drain bolt was full with shavings.
I put a Magnafine filter on it and removed the paper filter. I will keep doing what I can to keep it in order. I have conceded to the fact that this could happen to any car that I bought and I can't afford one that is still under warranty.
The transmission guy I talked with seemed very good and told me that the whine is somewhat common and it was just an indication of the long term problem. He said there was no reason to be concerned in the short term and it may last a lot longer. He said that the trigger for tearing it down is when you can hear the whine get really loud or at idle (if a TC bearing starts to go). He brought me in the back and showed me the internals of the trans and showed me the bearings. He also said the internal filter is what is the biggest concern now - it is probably loaded up.
When I did my fluid change, the drain bolt was full with shavings.
I put a Magnafine filter on it and removed the paper filter. I will keep doing what I can to keep it in order. I have conceded to the fact that this could happen to any car that I bought and I can't afford one that is still under warranty.
I like your idea of removing the stock filter with the magnefine. I may remove mine too, no sense in having another potential restriction for very little if any gain in filtration.
Do you plan on adjusting your fluid change interval based on potential filter loading?
12-29-2010, 03:21 PM
#15
Well, I can't really do anything about the internal filter and I figure it is just mostly used up and not doing much filtering - I think he said there is a by pass when it gets full. So with the Magnefine I can monitor the shavings and change or clean as needed. I really do not expect a large amount of shavings unless things really start to deteriorate faster. I hope the gears are 'cut in' better now and it will actually produce less wear. Not sure if this theory is correct though.
I did a full flush and refill the first time to get all the Z1 out. Next time I will likely just do a 3 qt. change. I haven't decided on the mileage for those changes yet. Probably be around 20K. Redline is not available locally and its not exactly cheap either. I'd like to be wise about my change intervals - no reason to go crazy and start thinking that changing my fluid a bunch is going to fix the problem.
I did a full flush and refill the first time to get all the Z1 out. Next time I will likely just do a 3 qt. change. I haven't decided on the mileage for those changes yet. Probably be around 20K. Redline is not available locally and its not exactly cheap either. I'd like to be wise about my change intervals - no reason to go crazy and start thinking that changing my fluid a bunch is going to fix the problem.
04-03-2011, 11:30 PM
#17
Team Owner
Do you have a Type-S? Only the type s has an external cooler with rubber lines to tap into. If you have a base like I do, there's a place toward the firewall where you remove a factory hose and run your own hose. I did this to run a big aftermarket external filter. Adding a Magnefine to a car that already has cooler lines is as easy as cutting the rubber hose, inserting the filter, and tightening the hose clamps.
04-04-2011, 12:17 AM
#18
Do you have a Type-S? Only the type s has an external cooler with rubber lines to tap into. If you have a base like I do, there's a place toward the firewall where you remove a factory hose and run your own hose. I did this to run a big aftermarket external filter. Adding a Magnefine to a car that already has cooler lines is as easy as cutting the rubber hose, inserting the filter, and tightening the hose clamps.
04-04-2011, 12:34 AM
#19
Team Owner
That makes it much easier. Just find the line and a good spot where its easy to swap out and won't get damaged, cut and insert filter.
The magnefine has a bypass valve that will open if the filter gets plugged. If you put the filter in backwards it will not function. It would be a good idea after you cut the line to start the engine for a second or two and determine fluid flow direction. Put the lines in a container of course.
Use the 3/8 filter and fuel injection hose clamps. They clamp more evenly and won't dig in to the rubber.
The magnefine has a bypass valve that will open if the filter gets plugged. If you put the filter in backwards it will not function. It would be a good idea after you cut the line to start the engine for a second or two and determine fluid flow direction. Put the lines in a container of course.
Use the 3/8 filter and fuel injection hose clamps. They clamp more evenly and won't dig in to the rubber.
04-04-2011, 12:48 AM
#20
That makes it much easier. Just find the line and a good spot where its easy to swap out and won't get damaged, cut and insert filter.
The magnefine has a bypass valve that will open if the filter gets plugged. If you put the filter in backwards it will not function. It would be a good idea after you cut the line to start the engine for a second or two and determine fluid flow direction. Put the lines in a container of course.
Use the 3/8 filter and fuel injection hose clamps. They clamp more evenly and won't dig in to the rubber.
The magnefine has a bypass valve that will open if the filter gets plugged. If you put the filter in backwards it will not function. It would be a good idea after you cut the line to start the engine for a second or two and determine fluid flow direction. Put the lines in a container of course.
Use the 3/8 filter and fuel injection hose clamps. They clamp more evenly and won't dig in to the rubber.
Just wanted to throw that out there just in case anybody ever installs a magnafine filter backwards and they're worried it will screw up their transmission.
Anywho, four questions for you
1. If I remember correctly, you want the filter to be installed in the line coming from the cooler rather than the line going into the cooler. Would you happen to know about where this is located in the TL-S?
2. Should I also replace my pressure switches?
3. I just bought the car with 36k miles, should I leave everything alone and let the transmission go out and get it replaced under warranty THEN change over to redline + magnafine filter or should I just change everything now?
4. I noticed that you live in Bakersfield and I will be moving into the area in a month or so, do you do any car work on the side?
04-04-2011, 12:58 AM
#21
Team Owner
Funny story, I installed an external cooler + magnafine filter on my 01 accord v6, but I put the magnafine filter under the battery so everytime I changed it I would have to remove the battery. Anyway, I was lazy and decided to just pay the dealership to perform a drain and fill and change out the filter. Of course the technician puts in the filter the wrong way even though the work order said to install it with the arrows pointing towards the rear of the car. I called emergingent worried that this would damage my transmission even though I only drove it for about 10 miles and the guy said they performed test with the filter installed backwards and it won't hurt the transmission.. it just won't function properly as you said.
Just wanted to throw that out there just in case anybody ever installs a magnafine filter backwards and they're worried it will screw up their transmission.
Anywho, four questions for you
1. If I remember correctly, you want the filter to be installed in the line coming from the cooler rather than the line going into the cooler. Would you happen to know about where this is located in the TL-S?
2. Should I also replace my pressure switches?
3. I just bought the car with 36k miles, should I leave everything alone and let the transmission go out and get it replaced under warranty THEN change over to redline + magnafine filter or should I just change everything now?
4. I noticed that you live in Bakersfield and I will be moving into the area in a month or so, do you do any car work on the side?
Just wanted to throw that out there just in case anybody ever installs a magnafine filter backwards and they're worried it will screw up their transmission.
Anywho, four questions for you
1. If I remember correctly, you want the filter to be installed in the line coming from the cooler rather than the line going into the cooler. Would you happen to know about where this is located in the TL-S?
2. Should I also replace my pressure switches?
3. I just bought the car with 36k miles, should I leave everything alone and let the transmission go out and get it replaced under warranty THEN change over to redline + magnafine filter or should I just change everything now?
4. I noticed that you live in Bakersfield and I will be moving into the area in a month or so, do you do any car work on the side?
04-05-2011, 10:26 PM
#23
I've noticed this whine as well, I was going to post a new thread until I searched and found this. The whine is very faint and only when lightly accelerating (AT) through first- third gear. It sounds like a supercharger whinding up. I think it's pretty normal uh I hate cars?
04-05-2011, 11:28 PM
#24
Team Owner
The only good thing about this place is the job market is not too bad.
04-05-2011, 11:29 PM
#25
Team Owner
I've noticed this whine as well, I was going to post a new thread until I searched and found this. The whine is very faint and only when lightly accelerating (AT) through first- third gear. It sounds like a supercharger whinding up. I think it's pretty normal uh I hate cars?
04-06-2011, 12:11 AM
#26
Let me know if you need any help finding apartments. I think I'm changing my oil and trans fluid this weekend if you want to join me. I'm in an apartment myself, in my second month of house hunting right now and I've been beat to the punch each time I go to pull the trigger. If you want to do the Redline Racing fluid, you can still order it tomorrow and have it here by Saturday.
The only good thing about this place is the job market is not too bad.
The only good thing about this place is the job market is not too bad.
As for the job market, the only reason I'm moving to Bakersfield is for a job, I'm going to miss Northern California.
11-05-2012, 09:06 PM
#28
I own a 2005 TL and am also experiencing some whine sound under light acceleration.
Does the TL differential have a separate fluid drain/refill that you can do?
Or is it just the auto transmission fluid that you can drain/refill that takes care of the differential too?
Does the TL differential have a separate fluid drain/refill that you can do?
Or is it just the auto transmission fluid that you can drain/refill that takes care of the differential too?
11-06-2012, 12:46 PM
#30
Thanks for your reply.
My car has 123,000 miles on it now.
Runs perfect. Just the high pitched whine/whistle sound when accelerating....like a supercharger sound. Mostly hear it between 30-40mph.
From all the reading I've done, I guess the only thing to do is to wait till the sound gets worse?
Will the differential finally fail and the car not move?
11-06-2012, 01:05 PM
#31
Yep, it is a slow process so don't worry about it too much. This is just the standard nature and life cycle of these trannies. They simply can't or won't make them last 500K for the price. Its about a 200K transmission and that seems reasonable for the price. What you are hearing is the gears whining due to the alignment being out slightly. This is caused by the bearings (that holds the gears in perfect alignment) wearing slightly. It is actually in you final drive gear bearing, probably not in the differential. Let me guess - you only hear it under slight load (accelerator barely on) and it goes away when you let off the gas. It will gradually move into the lower gears and at all speeds. You know you need a full rebuild ($2500) when it makes a noise at idle or you feel vibration in the driveline. You will likely get another 50K or so out if it if you are just now hearing the whining at a steady state speed. Don't be mad at Honda as this is just the standard life cycle of a bearing (probably made by Timken). Get fresh fluid in there, get a Magnefine filter, and enjoy all the other nice aspects of your sweet ride.
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R_R4 (12-09-2012)
11-06-2012, 01:37 PM
#32
Team Owner
Some of these cars did it when brand new. Mine was one of them. The sound never got worse and when I installed Redline fluid it actually quieted down over new. You have to really try to hear it.
If it changes pitch with road speed it's the final drive. If it changes with rpm it most likely the torque converter.
If it changes pitch with road speed it's the final drive. If it changes with rpm it most likely the torque converter.
11-07-2012, 12:11 AM
#33
Instructor
My car's always made that sound. When my transmission died at 110k miles, we replaced it with a rebuilt one. The whine is still there. I personally don't think it's that big a deal.
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R_R4 (12-09-2012)
11-07-2012, 02:01 PM
#34
110k seems very premature for a modern day car (especially an Acura.....a brand that has an above average reputation for quality).
11-07-2012, 02:06 PM
#35
Yep, it is a slow process so don't worry about it too much. This is just the standard nature and life cycle of these trannies. They simply can't or won't make them last 500K for the price. Its about a 200K transmission and that seems reasonable for the price. What you are hearing is the gears whining due to the alignment being out slightly. This is caused by the bearings (that holds the gears in perfect alignment) wearing slightly. It is actually in you final drive gear bearing, probably not in the differential. Let me guess - you only hear it under slight load (accelerator barely on) and it goes away when you let off the gas. It will gradually move into the lower gears and at all speeds. You know you need a full rebuild ($2500) when it makes a noise at idle or you feel vibration in the driveline. You will likely get another 50K or so out if it if you are just now hearing the whining at a steady state speed. Don't be mad at Honda as this is just the standard life cycle of a bearing (probably made by Timken). Get fresh fluid in there, get a Magnefine filter, and enjoy all the other nice aspects of your sweet ride.
I have owned and know many other regular Honda Accord and Civic owners that have gotten as much or more miles out of their transmission without any issues.
I personally used to own a 1991 Accord SE automatic that had 220,000 miles on it when I sold it and NEVER had any problems with the transmission.
I also owned a 1999 Acura RL with the 4-speed auto transmission and had over 160,000 miles on it. The transmission was rock-solid.
I really think that Acura has a design problem with these transmissions and should have a revision to correct the problem.
Do the Acura RL's of 2005+ have any common known issues with the automatic transmission?
Last edited by drewk2; 11-07-2012 at 02:09 PM.
11-07-2012, 07:32 PM
#36
Suzuka Master
I have gone thru 3 a piece in the TL and Odyssey. longest one lasting 69K
I drive it easy.
11-08-2012, 02:28 AM
#37
Instructor
You're new here. I think 110,000 miles is longer than many others got - especially on an '04.
11-08-2012, 09:51 AM
#38
I owned a 1988 Legend Coupe, '92 Legend Coupe, '93 Legend Coupe, '99 RL, and now a 2005 TL. Also, more Hondas than that.
I thought that the BAD automatic transmissions were mainly from the 2000-2003 TL's. Am I wrong?
11-08-2012, 01:07 PM
#39
Instructor
11-08-2012, 02:15 PM
#40
Team Owner
I might be new HERE, but I'm not a newbie when it comes to owning Acuras.
I owned a 1988 Legend Coupe, '92 Legend Coupe, '93 Legend Coupe, '99 RL, and now a 2005 TL. Also, more Hondas than that.
I thought that the BAD automatic transmissions were mainly from the 2000-2003 TL's. Am I wrong?
I owned a 1988 Legend Coupe, '92 Legend Coupe, '93 Legend Coupe, '99 RL, and now a 2005 TL. Also, more Hondas than that.
I thought that the BAD automatic transmissions were mainly from the 2000-2003 TL's. Am I wrong?
Prior to around '99 these transmissions did not have pressure switches, they had very few electronics. When the electronics were added the reliability issues began. Some were caused from the pressure switches getting out of calibration and causing bad shift timing and slip which is a current problem with our cars. Second is Honda transmissions went from snappy and quick shifts to slow and sloppy an they used the electronics as a means to soften shifts which destroyed the reliability.
I respect your replies, but I'm not sure if I agree that you should expect the transmission to last "only" 200k because of the price point of this Acura.
I have owned and know many other regular Honda Accord and Civic owners that have gotten as much or more miles out of their transmission without any issues.
I personally used to own a 1991 Accord SE automatic that had 220,000 miles on it when I sold it and NEVER had any problems with the transmission.
I also owned a 1999 Acura RL with the 4-speed auto transmission and had over 160,000 miles on it. The transmission was rock-solid.
I really think that Acura has a design problem with these transmissions and should have a revision to correct the problem.
Do the Acura RL's of 2005+ have any common known issues with the automatic transmission?
I have owned and know many other regular Honda Accord and Civic owners that have gotten as much or more miles out of their transmission without any issues.
I personally used to own a 1991 Accord SE automatic that had 220,000 miles on it when I sold it and NEVER had any problems with the transmission.
I also owned a 1999 Acura RL with the 4-speed auto transmission and had over 160,000 miles on it. The transmission was rock-solid.
I really think that Acura has a design problem with these transmissions and should have a revision to correct the problem.
Do the Acura RL's of 2005+ have any common known issues with the automatic transmission?
Last, in '04 the DBW was programmed to close the throttle on the shifts so there's very little power being transmitted as clutches are being applied and released. '04 still had the 2nd gear lube issues that the previous models have and it was fixed with a case update in '05. We learned on this board that the pressure switches are a huge cause of premature failures along with the factory fluid being pure crap and having too much FM. Replacing the switches every 2 years and the fluid with a DexIII or Type F mixture along with avoiding an automatic 4-2 downshift greatly extends the life of the transmission. We don't have to worry about hard parts breakage, the cause of the typical clutch pack (wear) failures is bad shift timing caused from the fluid and pressure switches and 3rd gear circuit exhaust restriction.
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R_R4 (12-09-2012)