Transmission problem. What's next? Nervous
06-05-2017, 07:11 PM
#1
Transmission problem. What's next? Nervous
So, after picking up my 2008 TL from where it had been sitting for a week (airport parking), it wouldn't engage when I shifted from park to drive. It felt like it was in neutral, engine revved but the car didn't move. So, I put it back into park, then reverse (it moved) and then back to drive and it was fine. Drove home. Didn't drive it the next day. This morning it was fine, but this afternoon I had the same problem, car wouldn't move when it was in drive, until I moved it back into park, then reverse, then drive. I took it to my mechanic who suggested it might be a problem with the transmission fluid because it looked "burnt" - very dark when it's supposed to be red. So, while they were swapping out the fluid, I called my previous mechanic (Honda dealer) to find out how long ago the fluid was changed and it had only been just under 15,000 miles.
Isn't transmission fluid supposed to last longer than 15,000 miles? Is old transmission fluid a reasonable cause for the car to not freaking move? The fluid has gone a lot longer than 15,000 miles before, with no problems.
There were no error codes showing. The car has about 96,000 miles on it, just under 10 years old.
I'm concerned that this issue is an early warning sign of things to come, and if I'm going to need a new transmission I'd rather get it done on my terms, not when I'm suddenly stranded in the middle lane of a busy freeway because my car crapped out on me.
Does it sound logical to you that simply putting in new transmission fluid is going to fix the problem?
Any thoughts on getting a used tranny vs. a rebuilt one? Those were the two options the guy at my mechanic offered, and said the used one would be significantly cheaper.
Sorry if any of these questions sound dumb. I'm an accountant, not a car expert
Isn't transmission fluid supposed to last longer than 15,000 miles? Is old transmission fluid a reasonable cause for the car to not freaking move? The fluid has gone a lot longer than 15,000 miles before, with no problems.
There were no error codes showing. The car has about 96,000 miles on it, just under 10 years old.
I'm concerned that this issue is an early warning sign of things to come, and if I'm going to need a new transmission I'd rather get it done on my terms, not when I'm suddenly stranded in the middle lane of a busy freeway because my car crapped out on me.
Does it sound logical to you that simply putting in new transmission fluid is going to fix the problem?
Any thoughts on getting a used tranny vs. a rebuilt one? Those were the two options the guy at my mechanic offered, and said the used one would be significantly cheaper.
Sorry if any of these questions sound dumb. I'm an accountant, not a car expert
06-06-2017, 08:13 AM
#2
Racer
The 07-08 TL's generally had a stronger transmission than the 04-06 TL's. The 07-08 TL's got the transmission from the RL. Not saying it's impossible, but it's not typical for these transmissions to die before 100k.
When you are shifting the car into drive, are you seeing the green "D" light on the gauge cluster? Is that light flashing at all?
As far as used vs. rebuilt transmission, you will need to weigh the options. Both should come with a warranty. There is obviously risks involved with both. The used one could go bad within 5k miles, but the rebuild could be done poorly and face the same issues. See if there is a reputable transmission builder in your city and see if you can get a quote. I know when I was paranoid about mine being bad, I was quoted $2700 for the rebuild. The nice thing about the Honda V6 auto transmissions is I can guarantee that most transmission builders have re-built countless numbers of them cuz they're shit.
Does your fluid just look burnt or does it also smell burnt? Was the car having issues shifting between gears? Specifically 3rd and 4th? Generally, the burnt smell is a result of the clutch packs slipping. On these transmissions, that's caused by a couple things. The main reason the clutch packs start to slip is due to the transmission pressure switches falling out of spec. When that happens, the PSI range in which the switches apply pressure to the clutch packs becomes narrower. This means the clutch packs are rubbing against each other for a longer period of time causing excessive heat build-up. The heat build up causes the transmission fluids lubrication properties to diminish, which means the clutch packs start to slip. When the clutch packs start to slip, it basically is the end of the transmission. You can replace the switches and the fluid, but chances are, unless you catch it first time, you're transmission is living on borrowed time.
For the transmission fluid on these cars, a drain and refill is not going to give you entirely brand new fluid. This transmission takes about 9 quarts of fluid. With a single drain, you can expect to get around 3 quarts out. You'll see the term 3x3 drain and refill thrown around the forum a lot. All it means is you perform 3 separate drain and refills. This will give you roughly 90% new fluid, with diminishing marginal returns after the 3rd drain and refill.
I have done a 3x3 drain and refill at 101k miles on my car. I did a 1x3 drain and refill when I hit 110k miles. The 3x3 made a big difference. My fluid was very dark. I swear even the 1x3 9k miles later made a difference as well. The transmission has always been a little quirky since I got the car, but it seems to be keeping fresh fluid in it is very crucial. I have had a former Acura Master Tech tell me to change the fluid ever 15k miles on these transmissions and the parts guy at the dealer tell me every 5k. I am probably going to switch to doing a 1x3 every 5k miles along with my oil changes. It takes about 15 min to DIY for a 1x3.
Hope this post helps and let me know if you have any questions.
When you are shifting the car into drive, are you seeing the green "D" light on the gauge cluster? Is that light flashing at all?
As far as used vs. rebuilt transmission, you will need to weigh the options. Both should come with a warranty. There is obviously risks involved with both. The used one could go bad within 5k miles, but the rebuild could be done poorly and face the same issues. See if there is a reputable transmission builder in your city and see if you can get a quote. I know when I was paranoid about mine being bad, I was quoted $2700 for the rebuild. The nice thing about the Honda V6 auto transmissions is I can guarantee that most transmission builders have re-built countless numbers of them cuz they're shit.
Does your fluid just look burnt or does it also smell burnt? Was the car having issues shifting between gears? Specifically 3rd and 4th? Generally, the burnt smell is a result of the clutch packs slipping. On these transmissions, that's caused by a couple things. The main reason the clutch packs start to slip is due to the transmission pressure switches falling out of spec. When that happens, the PSI range in which the switches apply pressure to the clutch packs becomes narrower. This means the clutch packs are rubbing against each other for a longer period of time causing excessive heat build-up. The heat build up causes the transmission fluids lubrication properties to diminish, which means the clutch packs start to slip. When the clutch packs start to slip, it basically is the end of the transmission. You can replace the switches and the fluid, but chances are, unless you catch it first time, you're transmission is living on borrowed time.
For the transmission fluid on these cars, a drain and refill is not going to give you entirely brand new fluid. This transmission takes about 9 quarts of fluid. With a single drain, you can expect to get around 3 quarts out. You'll see the term 3x3 drain and refill thrown around the forum a lot. All it means is you perform 3 separate drain and refills. This will give you roughly 90% new fluid, with diminishing marginal returns after the 3rd drain and refill.
I have done a 3x3 drain and refill at 101k miles on my car. I did a 1x3 drain and refill when I hit 110k miles. The 3x3 made a big difference. My fluid was very dark. I swear even the 1x3 9k miles later made a difference as well. The transmission has always been a little quirky since I got the car, but it seems to be keeping fresh fluid in it is very crucial. I have had a former Acura Master Tech tell me to change the fluid ever 15k miles on these transmissions and the parts guy at the dealer tell me every 5k. I am probably going to switch to doing a 1x3 every 5k miles along with my oil changes. It takes about 15 min to DIY for a 1x3.
Hope this post helps and let me know if you have any questions.
Last edited by NoTLoud; 06-06-2017 at 08:16 AM.
06-06-2017, 04:59 PM
#4
Racer
Definitely a possibility, check this write-up out: https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...switch-892223/
See if you have any of the symptoms listed. One of them was the car will pop out of drive while driving, but will go back in if you switch to the "manual" mode and back.
See if you have any of the symptoms listed. One of them was the car will pop out of drive while driving, but will go back in if you switch to the "manual" mode and back.
06-08-2017, 08:34 AM
#5
Thanks for the info, and the link to the other thread.
My car has been fine since last weekend but if what was in the other thread turns out to be the issue I can expect the problem to gradually increase in frequency.
the car has not had any problems once it's in gear. It shifts fine on the road so that switch does seem like the likely culprit for why it wouldn't go into drive in the first place.
My car has been fine since last weekend but if what was in the other thread turns out to be the issue I can expect the problem to gradually increase in frequency.
the car has not had any problems once it's in gear. It shifts fine on the road so that switch does seem like the likely culprit for why it wouldn't go into drive in the first place.
06-08-2017, 08:42 AM
#6
Senior Moderator
May be transmission range switch or just cold transmission fluid as well (although less likely) I'd do a transmission fluid change ever 15K miles if I were you just to prolong our transmission's life..
06-08-2017, 04:52 PM
#7
Suzuka Master
if your transmission is failing then the symptom WILL happen either in gear or during switching gear with consistency, to test the range switch goes bad put in sport mode (manually shift) and keep it in 3rd and give some gas. If the gear indication flash and your car hesitate for awhile that mean your range switch is on it way out, other symptom include refuse to perform an up shift even tho you did manually input the gear box for up shift. I would do a drain and fill on every other oil change interval 10k-15k miles. I do a lot of city driving where bumper to bumper in Houston rush hour traffic and notice new fluid keep the transmission happy also a new set of pressure switches also help prolong the AT.