When I had my air filter out of my '05 TL, I noticed that an engine mount bolt was missing. I purchased this car used, so I have only had it for about 3k of its 40k miles. It looks like some work was done on it and somebody simply did not put the bolt back in place.

Anyway, I took some pictures of it and found the bolt reference within the shop manual (I think).

My questions:

What is the P/N for this bolt and how would I go about lining the hole up and putting a new one in?

Also, are there any safety or engine/transmission issues that this may cause?

 

Check out this site for the bolt:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Definitely looks like someone has been in there before. Actually the top of that trans looks filthy! Check for leaks around that trans. fluid warmer. That's the round part half-shown in the top right corner of your first pic. Anyway, loosen the other two bolts and start the new bolt in the hole. Then tighten the two bolts through the mount bracket then the mount bolt. Shouldn't need to support anything.

 

It looks like part #52 in that link you gave me. An M10 x 45 flanged bolt?

I thought the same thing about how dirty it was. I'll take a look at the fluid warmer.

 

take some photos of the car and post them up! If I remember correctly, the trans mount is used for supercharger applications as a support mount. The previous owner may have had one on there and removed it. OR a tech was doing some work on the car, removed it and forgot to put it back in...

 

I got some time today to dig into the car today and clean it out to make sure I had no leaks.

The good news: I likely found where the leak was coming from.

The bad news: I really, really don't like the answer.





From the pics you can see that someone previously had snapped the threads on the tranny housing. That was the reason I had only one bolt. Unfortunately, the single bolt did not like the full share of the load and simply 'fell apart' when i took the bolt out to get a better look at the housing. Just take a look at the bent frame bolt.

You'll also notice that one of the clutch plate solenoids slipped off. Upon further investigation, there was some dents on this from previously. (Someone did a real job on this car, eh?). I believe this is where my leaking was from since the o-ring was not fully seated in the solenoid.

So, I have a tranny housing hanging in the wind with no frame support and a gimped clutch plate solenoid. I'm not thrilled.

I want to replace the clutch plate solenoid. I'm having a bit of an issue taking the thing off, though. With the bolts off I cannot get the thing to budge. I don't want to damage the feed tubes underneath, but I gotta get that thing off. Any ideas?

Once off, I want to run this by you smarter folk and make sure I don't miss anything putting it back on. Do I need to order more than just the solenoid? Should I order replacement o-rings and tubes, too?

Then comes the wonderful case of the housing. How in the sam hill am I going to fix that one without replacing the entire housing? If swearing could fix it, I'd have this thing up and running by now.

Hey... thanks ahead of time for the help.

 

I thought I'd update y'all on my fix for anyone that may have this problem. Maybe it'll help someone in the future...

After all of the research, I decided to build up the bosses by welding. The way that the '05 TL transmission fits in the engine bay was nearly perfect. All I needed to do was take out the engine mount and the battery tray and we could perform the welding without dropping the tranny. Also, the design of the tranny is such that a little extra welding heat at those locations didn't cause any issues with seals, etc. There is simply case frame below each of these mount locations.

Anyway, the repair went like this...

• Remove battery tray and engine mount
• Remove the clutch solenoid assembly, tubes, and gasket
• Cover the hole left by the removed solenoid so that slag and chips will not get into the transmission
• Use fire blankets to protect everything else in the bay
• Grind the broken mount holes down to the bottom of the tapped holes
• Build up the bosses with weld. Weld for a few seconds and then wait for the case to cool to the touch. I may have been a bit over-cautious here, but I didn't want to take any chances with the cast housing
• After both bosses are built, grind the tops flat
• Reattach the engine mount and make sure that your weld heights are correct to fit the mount
• With the mount attached, mark the center of your holes
• Drill and tap one hole. (This is the hardest part. You really have to take your time to get the tap pilot hole vertical. Otherwise your mount will not sit flush on the other side.)
• Attach the mount with a bolt at the newly-tapped hole
• Mark the location of the second hole down through the engine mount
• Remove the engine mount and drill and tap
• Put it all back together

After all was said and done, I got out of this for the price of 3 bolts, a gasket, and a mobile welder to come and do the work (he really did a great job): about $150. Not bad considering the alternatives.

I have pics if anyone wants to see them. Just PM me - or I could post 'em here.

 

great solution and not to expensive. congratulations!