I took my TL for after I took the RV6 Precat deletes off, and put the stockers back on. I was getting O2 fault code. So, I thought I'd take it for a drive, and I approached some standing water on the road that I didn't think was that deep.

But, boy was I wrong. I put the trans in 1st and eased off the clutch just creeping along. When I started to hear the engine sputter so I immediately turned it off.

I the went and pulled the spark plugs (thank god for a full toolkit in the trunk), and then I cranked the engine over a good 2-3mins with a 1/4 throttle until I couldn't see any water coming out. I put the plugs back in, and fired it up. It gave of a lot of white smoke and fault codes for cylinders 1-6.

Overall, the engine sounds fine, but that maybe wishful thinking. I plan on changing the oil tomorrow. Is there any other suggestions you guys could give me?

 

dont drive your car through deep water .

but seriously, look inside the air filter and check on how damp the filter is, you might need to replace it. also did any water get inside the car?

 

Believe me I've learned my leason. I thought the water was only like 4" deep, but apparently not. I haven't had to feel the filter yet, but I'd be willing to guess that it did get wet, and no the car didn't get wet. Other a tiny amount in the cylinders.

 

Well, I changed my oil today, and the oil looked real milky almost like chocolate milk. I just changed it less than 300miles ago. I plan on running this oil for a couple hundred miles then changing it again, and hopefully it won't be milky anymore.

 

I would change the oil and filter before driving it anywhere else. Also pull your air filter and dry it out or replace it. If you can also spray some fogging oil in the cylinders to prevent rust. Seafoam in the gas wouldnt hurt.

Lastly I have to call you a dumb ass for driving into the puddle! :-)

 

I already changed the oil and filter once. Should I keep changing it without driving it until the oil stops looking milky, or is it ok to drive it a little? Also could you recommend a good fogging oil? I also will be putting Seafom in the gas. Do you think I should also add that to the oil as well?

I've been calling myself a dumbass too.

 

I own an RDX, but consider the following, and perhaps some others will give additional comments:

The RDX holds 6.1 quarts of oil, but only 5.0 quarts will drain. That means that an oil change, with filter, is leaving about 1.0 quart of the old oil (and water), inside the engine. So first, you need to try to find out how much oil your TL holds, and how much is drained with an oil change.

A second oil change, with filter, will still leave about 6 ounces of old oil (and water), in the engine. A third drain (with filter) will leave less than 2 ounces of old oil.

I would not have driven the vehicle before doing at least two complete oil / filter changes. I would idle the engine for about 5 minutes, to completely mix the new/ old oil, then do an oil change. Again, this depends upon the volume of the TL engine oil, and how much drains, and how much does *not* drain.
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In an attempt to get more oil to drain, I would allow the TL engine to drain overnight. With the RDX, an overnight drain will drain 5.5 or more quarts, instead of the normal/ nominal 5.0 quarts.

Also, it is possible that if the front of the car is jacked up, or perhaps one side, then more oil will drain. First, drain the oil with the car level. Then try jacking the front, the rear, or one side or the other, and check if more oil drains. This is easier if you have a floor jack - BUT DO NOT GO UNDER THE CAR UNLESS YOU USE JACK-STANDS.
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Sorry for your problem, and I hope that no permanent damage to the engine occurs.

 

Good advice right there. Good luck man.

 

Thanks for the advice. I just looked it the 04 TL Service Manual, and it says it takes 4.2qts. without filter and 4.5qts with filter. I always change the filter, and the most I've probably got out was between 4.2-4.3qts.



One positive sign is my cylinders 1-6 misfire error codes have disappeared. So, hopefully that's a good sign.

I was also thing of dropping the oil pan, and getting all the crap off the bottom. What do you guys think, a good idea or pass?

 

If you are driving the car i wouldnt worry about the fogging oil. But just drive the car for a few hundred miles on the new oil and change it again. You just want to make sure there is no water what so ever in there. Also dont add seafoam to the oil.

 

also the water will evaporate out of the oil as it heats up. if you drove the car any distance with that much water in it, kiss main bearings bye bye

 

I've put about twenty miles on it so far, and I plan out changed the oil out again in 25-50 miles. This time I plan on draining it overnight. Then putting some cheap ass oil in it for another 50-100 miles, and then letting it drain overnight again.

Fortunately, my car is so low I have to drive it up on custom 2x10 ramps to be able to get access to the drain plug. So, that'll help with draining as much oil as possible out the oil pan.

 

I just changed the oil for a second time in 200 miles, and plan on changing it again in 200 miles using inexpensive oil. Then I plan on going back to to my Havoline oil.

This last pit of oil I drained actually looked good no milky residue. Apparently, I really lucked out.

 

^ come back in about 10K miles and let us know

 

It way just be wishful thinking on my part , but I talked to my friend (the head shop foreman, and formally a head Bimmer tech for 25yrs) at the local Bimmer dealer.

He seems to think that I really shouldn't worry too much over it. He did suggest taking like a ml or two of oil and drop it into the spark plug wells. Then crank the engine over with plugs still out to lubricate piston rings.

I had him listen to it and said not only for a car with 110k miles and inhaling water he said it it was one best sounding top and bottom ends.