Hello there,

I seem to have a very weird issue. It's weird because i dont know what else to do.

Car: 2004 Acura TL AT

Suspension setup: Tein S-Tech with aspec shocks (when it happened) and tein s-tech with tokico blues (now)

Issue: Car pulls left when accelerating, Drifts left when cruising, all speeds. Even on street against the crown it slowly starts going left. Steering wheel goes left, if I keep the steering wheel straight the car goes straight, i just have to kinda force it to stay straight.

It all started when i was driving on the freway and hit a very large hole with my left side front tire. It took about 1 or 2 weeks to noticed the car drifting/pulling left. Imediately i thought it might have been a bent wheel so i had them all check and balanced - same thing happening.

Even though i've had my radial tires long before the incident i thought it might just be radial pull (my tires are directional) so i went and had the tires cross-mounted and rebalance and had the car aligned, still same damn pull/drift.

I kinda used this as an excuse to get a shocks so i went and got the tokico HP shocks and installed them all around. I figured my front shock might have blow from the impact with the pot hole but when i checked it everything was good on it, no leaks and it moved up and down as normal. After everything, same pull/drift.

I've had my SPC rear camber kit in my trunk for a while so i got it installed, had the car re-aligned and same freaking left pull/drift.


This is getting very annoying as i have no clue as to why this is. Could the impact have messed up an axle? i checked everything in the front and it all looks good. I've had the TL-S steering rack for over a year before this happened.


If you guys have any other suggestions please share them, i dont want to get rid of my TL, i can easily go out and get a new car but i just love my TL too much, have had it for 4 years and just love the performace, looks, ride, everything except the damn pull/drift lol

 

Damn, i guess no one has had this type of issue before.

 

sounds like an alignment problem.
you never posted your alignment results.

re-check axles

 

If something that rotates was damaged in an impact, you would get vibration......not pull. In the front you would feel it in the steering wheel, in the back you would feel it in your butt (tee-hee).

If your car is pulling, It could be a few things (from most likely to least likely):
- damaged ball joints (alignment goes out of spec as soon as you hit the throttle)
- damaged wheel bearing (alignment goes out of spec as soon as you hit the throttle)
- Uneven wear on your tires (but you rotated them)
- Uneven caster still within spec (from a slight bend in the knuckle or UCA)
- Uneven toe within spec causing a thrust angle
- Uneven camber (even less pull)

As Justin said, please post your alignment specs. Within-spec can still cause a little pull.

 

thanks guys, will do as soon as i get home and scan the sheet :-)

 

I have this same problem. Only when I accelerate does it pull to the left. I just got new tires put on yesterday. When I coast it goes straight. I don't know what the problem is. I would say motor mount but I don't any vibration under the hood, that I notice. Any ideas?

 

perhaps you need a new steering rack? i had the same problem when i smoked a curb with a different car a few years ago. is it hard to keep the car straight?

 

id be interested to see those alignment specs. Another pull when accelerating would be different front treads, perhaps a more aggressive tread on one tire. If they are the same then you can definitely rule that one out

 

Folks - i am having a similar issue - anybody notice if the VSA impact the issue? Do you get the same pull-left if the VSA is on or off?

 

Sorry for the super late response guys. I've been all over during this past few months.

Anyway, below is a pic of my current alignment. The problem is still there. even if i dont accelerate you start feeling the pull to the left. no difference if i have the VSA on or off. At this point i spent 200 bucks buying the driver's side upper and lower ball joints, tie rod end and both right and left compliance bushing which i filled with polyurethane. I have yet to get them installed as i have to make time for it but the second i do i'll get back with updates.

 

I was gunna vote damaged steering rack too... They should have checked wheel bearing play and ball joints when the alignment was done.

 

I have a floating/wandering feeling when driving at pretty much all speeds. It seems to be more noticeable on the highway though. I've got 4 new tires with maybe 4k miles and the alignment has been donw 2 times since. I had it aligned right after the tires were installed and about 2 months later because of the this issue. I haven't hit any curbs or anything either.

 

Measure from the center of the front wheel to the center of the rear wheel on each side and see if they are the same measurement.

 

Compliance bushings? Major problem on 3G's.

 

ofcourse I'm having this same issue.. Had four new michelins put on and had a alignment at sears and my car pulls to the left under acceleration..feels very weird..man I don't wanna go play the realignment game. It looks in spec and they even corrected it..it doesn't really pull left cruising just accelerating.

 

With the new Michelins, was any attempt to swap the 2 front tires, left to right at vice versa done? I had a similar issue with my Conti DWS when new- may have had a slight conical imperfection in manufacturing causing a pull to the right, but swapping as above corrected it, and they have since 'worn' in and run true now. This is assuming no suspension damage or significant wear of suspension components.

 

pull under hard acceleration is torque steer and although the TL hides it well, it's still there. Car pulling to the left = something bent that would have been caught during the alignment process. I know most of you hate dealers but in this case, a visit might be warranted.

 

Hi guys- I have a 16 MDX with the same problem. I know this is a 3 year old post, but wanted to get feedback from all you guys- what was the root cause?

 

I had this problem and it was my compliance bushing. Ending up just replacing both lower control arms.

 

My compliance bushings are slightly cracked and sometimes pop under hard acceleration/decelleration. how much did the control arms run you?

 

^^^^ 2 bushing cost $56 and they can be press out.