While driving, at 1/4 tank, the warning above came on. It remained on continuously for the next 4 weeks - 5 fill-ups in the duration. I took the car to a dealer last week, and the warning was displayed when I left it. That afternoon the dealer reported that they did not pursue a workup for the problem since the warning was not displayed for them. I asked if they checked the data log and was told there was no record as this is in the "temp" memory. After speaking with the manager, he promised an evap test, and I could pick up the car the following day. When I went to collect the car I was told that the warning DID appear in the memory and that the gas cap was replaced even though they could find no problem. I am now concerned that perhaps the warning has simply been de-activated, and the problem remains. Is this possible? Can it cause any damage? Short of driving with the gas cap off, is there any simple way to confirm that the system is working as it should? Please note that I have not noticed any rush of air with gas cap removal since the warning first came on. Thanks.

 

maybe it really had a bad cap!
seals may be defective- things happen
Watch for it to return-
they did not disable the system- its very important the fuel system be sealed or the car wont run right at all~

 

Thanks for the response.

It was a red flag that they 1. denied seeing the warning at all and 2. were going to do nothing (not even check the log) until I expressed some concern.

At that point I lost confidence in their ability to diagnose and fix the problem.

I also didn't mention that I asked the manager to drive the car without the gas cap. He said he did, but the warning did NOT re-appear. The explanation was that he only drove the car 1/4 mile.

Trust, but verify (????)

AR

 

the gas cap errors happen in every new honda... tighten it up a few clicks and drive it for a week...it will go away.

 

There have been numerous posts on this problem in the TLS. If your dealership had bothered to call TechLine they would have found out what to do to fix the problem. On my car, they had to replace three parts in the Evaporator system.

 

The light cannot be disabled and if there is truly a fault the car will let you know via the MID.

 

Your OBDII system should have registered a fault, even if there was no MIL for a leaking evap system. The fact that there was a rush of air upon cracking the cap means you didn't have a cap leak- just the opposite. The evap canistor or plumbing could be the fault, but tonto340 is correct, dealer tech should have checked the factory TechLine.

 

Thank you for the responses.

The warning has not returned, and I do not notice any change in performance.

I still have not heard an air rush with gas cap removal since the original appearance of the warning, and I have been listening closely with each fill-up. Should this be a concern? Should I try driving with the cap loose in order to confirm the integrity of the warning system? If the warning does return, I'm concerned that I may have to return to the dealer to have it cleared (40 min. drive).

Should I just watch it for now? TIA

 

I am a emissions tech in CA. for your question i have seen vehicles that have had the computer reprogrammed as for not to look for certain faults. There is different monitors that check the CATs, O2 sensors, misfires, fuel system, Evap system, ect. these monitors can be de-activated so the light wont come on if here is a problem. I read can't remember bet that some Hondas had there evap system deactivated and cat monitors because they were to sensetive and making the light come on too soon. What you can do is have your local shop hook up to the OBD caonnector and check the monitors to see if they are completed, they will either say READY, NOT READY, or NA/NOT APLICABLE look for the EVAP on and see what it says, that way you could see if its active or not.

 

Good idea, Sal. you can always go to AutoZone or Pep Boys and borrow an OBD scan tool. It won't have the full complement of features like a factory scan tool, but you should at least be able to determine "Ready, Not Ready"- and perhaps request Mode$07 to run single drive cycle diag.

also, I got a bit dyslexic reading the earlier thread about the lack of air rush when opening the cap. The fact that it DOES NOT produce a rush or gulp of air points to some sort of cap or evap leak.

 

I thank you all for the good info. Based on what is stated above, I tried an experiment. With my last fill-up, I simply left the gas cap hanging in the compartment without screwing it on at all. 30 miles later, and several times on and off with the ignition, the WARNING LIGHT HAS FAILED TO APPEAR!

It would appear that both the gas cap warning and check-engine warnings have been defeated.

Whom should I contact? Obviously I don't trust the dealer I took it to. Perhaps they simply did what Acura told them to do (???).

What damage can be done by having a faulty evap system?

Does anyone know a good attorney?

TIA

 

Mainly the EVAP is check is done when the fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4 tank so this is when the light is more likely to come on also try driving on highway and a steady speed a that when most self test are run by the OBD system.

 

Does your check engine light illuminate when you turn your key on? if yes then its integrity should not be questioned. There is nothing I can think of that a dealer would be able to do in regards to disabling the evap system. Wouldnt start looking for attorneys yet either. The evap monitor runs when the vehicle is cruising at about 45 mph so to perform your test..reset the battery with the cap tight, warm the car up, drive the car at about 45mph for a about 5 minutes. Pull over, REMOVE the cap, and drive the car again in the same conditions. With the cap OFF NOT LOOSE the light should come back on. If the rubber seal around the cap is contacting the fill pipe it may seal enough to pass the evap test and not throw the message. I still think you may be making a mountain out of a molehill.

 

Again, thanks to all for the info. Per your suggestions, I took the car to my local mechanic to check the OBDII. He told me he used to work for a dealership (not Acura), and that they would routinely re-flash the car's computer to "widen the parameters" (his words) before thresholds that trigger a warning would be met, essentially defeating the monitor. He specifically mentioned catalytic converters.

For my car, testing mode 6 showed $91-FAIL and $92-FAIL - both have to do with fuel tank pressure sensor output. He recommended that I put 2 tanks of gas through it, then bring it back for re-test at 1/4 tank. Mode 7 found no codes - Evap system ready.

Coincidentally, 4 additional codes were kicked out: 61.01 and 86.01 having to do with secondary ABS and 66.0 and 50.0 having to do with the seat belts. I have no warnings for any of the above.

Suggestions????? TIA

 

aarmd

you are right Honda was doing this a while ago because the OBD parameters were to tight on the CAT's and it was on a lot of them too all models. A couple of months ago i had a customer with a Nissan P/U and a cat efficiency (P0420). and only appprx. 45000miles. I told him go to dealler and check for recals or servive buletins the truck was just about zeroed out the emissions test so it had to be a calibration with computer. He came back a two days later and said they re-flashed computer. I wonder how many times this is the problem with a lot of vehicles that fail the test with cat efficiency problems. Cat's are so expensive at least OBD 2 cats. the old ones i know shops that will install a regular cat as low 90Bucks.

 

A mfr, of any make car or truck, has to go through a lot of re-certification from ARB to get a new ECM calibration accepted. They must show how the new calibration will, upon reflash still incorporate the requirements of the OBDII protocol. So the talk about widening the parameters is a possibility, but leaving the cap off MUST throw a code after a certain drive cycle (RacingHart03's got it right) California regulators would tear into Honda/Acura real quick if it turned out they disabled that monitor.

I wouldn't worry too much about ABS or seatbelt codes. They should clear after the required 40 drive cycles (I think) with no faults.

 

This has been a real education for me, and I appreciate the input of all the posters above.

At this point I think I will monitor the situation myself and purchase an OBDII code reader and scanner.

Can you guys recommend one for purchase? I'm prepared to spend up to $500.

TIA

 

You can get a CANOBD2 reader for about 150 bucks. I have one by a company called INNOVATE or INNOVATIVE. Dont have it in front of me.