Hey guys I went to rotate my tires today and I noticed a thick greyish grease all over the inside of my front passenger side rim and components. I couldn't pin point exactely where it was coming from.

Only thing I can think of is a brake fluid leak combined with brake dust?

Any ideas?

 

Though the colors can vary, it sounds more like your outer CV boot is leaking and all the packed grease that was inside is being flung out onto your wheel, etc etc. This is very common, when the CV boot rips.

The colors can be green, and get darker as it gets more contaminated from outside debris, etc. I would check the boot first. It sure makes a mess and is annoying, but not hard, to clean off the components (brake line, knuckle, wheel, and so on).

If it is a ripped boot, you can just put a new boot (and clamps) on with new grease packed inside, IF it's not clicking when going around turns slowly. Though I tend to err on the side of caution, like when I had my Integra, and just replaced the axle...though they were lifetime warranty axles and I did the labor myself of course.

Let us know what you find.

 

Thanks, it said grey but on second thought it had a greenish hue to it. I will check the boot tomorrow when I get a chance, I haven't knowticed any clicking noises......so hopefully a boot replacement is all that is needed.

 

IMO- and acuratech may agree, replacement units ready to install are the best thing to do in the case of a broken cv boot and known grease loss.

When the grease gets out-and it doesnt take long after a boot tear, the remaining
grease is an attractant to dust and road grime, brake dust particles and other basically destructive things to the axle bearing

CV mean constant velocity- its essentially a ball and socket type joint, much like your hip or shoulder. As it rotates, twist and turns while you drive, its grinding that dust into the bearing surface, and keeps bringing in more dirt with it.

Put a boot on now ( shove a packet of grease in and hope), and
then pay again later to do it right- which you should have done the first time!!!

WHEN the bearing fails, its always someplace bad, possibly at speed,,, the resultant ride is pretty exciting--and whatever you also damage during the crash
IF THERE IS GREASE AND A TORN BOOT CHECK napa or other parts stores!!!
new is good- rebuilt is fine too

 

I second that, don't waste your time repacking the old CV joint. Its better, easier, and a whole lot less time to to just replace the whole axle.

 

+2

Labor to replace the entire shaft will be less than labor to replace a torn CV boot. Also, rebuilt shafts are fairly inexpensive, even with ABS sensor rings attached. Replacing the entire shaft will only set you back about $75 more and you will have a new inner and outer CV boot.

 

Well lembowski, seems the others agree with me too about just replacing the axle, if that is indeed what is leaking. As I suggested in my original post, that is what I would have done from the get-go, but since I'm a tech at the dealership, I hold back at times on recommending replacing, instead of fixing, certain parts.

Seems poeple seem to view us in a bad light, I can't see why... (though my dealership IS one of the better ones, and I'm not one to sell shit to people that they don't need).

The other poeple all did list good reasons to just replace the axle, and not just the boot. Hope all this info is useful for you.

 

on the cv noise click test- its not driving down the road that makes a noise
To test for cv wear you stop!- turn the steering full lock, and very slowly drive forward- nothing? turn steering the other direction and repeat- click click click as you start to move and accellerate to 15mph??
Over that and you wont hear it
The full turn puts max loading stess on the bearing- if its bad that will usually make it show.

as a retired tech-service writer etc in both dealer and private shops, I think most of the problem is the service writers are often NOT techs, and cant repeat correctly what was said about the brakes, or doesnt ask questions of the tech, so when they talk to the customer and sound dededee...at 100+ dollars an hour, I want to know WHY my car needs something...
example- the alternator is only putting out 10 volts- it should be 13.8 at the battery, so it needs new part xyz

Brake percentage remaining is the big problem- with numbers being tossed out, one visit they are 70 percent, 3 months later its 40 percent--one tech at one shops opinion is not the same as the next. Measurements count more than % IMO

Sure the dealer replaces not repairs parts- thats how they work
You want to rebuild your own alternator- go ahead, but that kind of person wouldnt be there in the first place

Customers- ask more questions- and leave note for tech in the car with detailed symptoms, the invoice has little room for details beyond- customer states shifts funny, or states makes noise turning. Not a lot of help to the tech~

If its a problem only you experience/is intermittant, ask to take the tech on a test drive so you can demonstrate and save them time