autozone and advance auto parts had them for 19 and 21 bucks they do look the same but had different part numbers
time to keep an eye on your parts store unless that 40 dollar one was a better quality

 

by the way thanks for the info on replacing them . very helpful

 

Just replaced both the tensioner and idler pulley. Pretty easy, except NAPA auto has the wrong part listed for the tensioner pulley.
They had another brand, which was the correct part.

 

Just to give a heads up for all of you trying to change the tensioner/tensioner/idler pulleys. If you are changing out the tensioner pulley, the bolt is reverse threaded 14mm bolt and is simple to change out. The idler pulley is more difficult but not too bad. It is also a 14mm bolt, but in order to get the pulley out, it is easiest to access the 12mm bolt on the bottom of the tensioner assembly. Before removing the belt, turn the wheels to the right so that you can get to the plastic panel and remove the plastic retainer clip with a small flathead screwdriver. (Back to where I left off), you can get to the 12mm bolt which you can clearly see (with light) is holding the whole assembly in place. Once this is removed, you can back the 14mm idler pulley bolt out, and once this bolt is out, the assembly can be removed through the top. I purchased the pulley's from advance auto parts (p/n: 89007 will fit the tensioner pulley but is not identical and p/n: 89059 will not work at all because the washer that helps hold the pulley on hits the pulley's outer surface). I will post pictures when I get them uploaded on the differences in these pulleys and the uninstall/reinstall pics.

 

Guys, based on the video and this thread I am not confident that this is what I am seeing on my car?

I am trying to correct an early morning wet/ very cold squeel. The belt will squeel but it goes away as soon as the belt is dry/ engine bay has warmed up/ i have driven around .5 miles?

I assumed I have a bad belt or bad tensioner can anyone confirm or deny this?

 

get the belt changed. i had a gates belt and it squealed like you stated, got the gator belt and noise was gone.

this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-40608.../dp/B000C36BKI

for reference
http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=3128

 

Thank you sir!

 

You sure it's belt squeal and not a PS pump issue?

First thing I'd do is flex the tensioner and reposition the belt. Then see if the sound is gone.

I'd try some belt dressing before buying a new belt. It could also be a faulty tensioner.

 

Ok, so first of all I am no Mechanic by any means. I usaully change my oil and disc brakes and thats it. So after reading this thread and also the "Serpentine Belt" thread I decided to give this a shot. I purchased all my parts online through Advance Auto Parts, 1. Full Dayco tensioner already assembled with pulleys. 2. Dayco Belt ( thanks for the member who listed all the part numbers earlier in this thread)Oh, and there is only 2 pulleys altogether, 1 idler and 1 tensioner(I thought there was 2 tensioners and 1 idler). I have 97k on my 2005 Auto TL and was getting the "Bird Chirp" after a good rain. Belt was brown also, but no cracks. So, now for my mistakes, and tips for all the other members of this forum who want to try this.....

1. DO NOT re-use the plastic nut on the back of the long bolt going through the Idler pulley. On factory tensioner bracket there is a resessed hole for this nut, on the Dayco(aftermarket) THERE IS NOT! I learned this the hardway, belt almost came off on my first atempt because of the 1/4 inch gap from tensioner bracket to Motor.

2. The bolt on the bottom of the tensioner is a 12mm not a 10mm and I could only get to it by taking off pass. front wheel and going through the plastic splash gaurd. Have some extensions handy.

3. The threads for the Big bolt for the Tensioner are very easy to strip (aluminum block). Have a 10mm tap handy, I had to go buy one along with the manual T-handle.

4. The Big bolt is a 14mm and you will need a wrench, socket on works for a little while, then no more room. Flar wrench or ratcheting wrench is ideal.

5. Belt routing is on back of package on new Dayco belt, but take a pic. of belt before you start because the diagram can be confusing.( stock belt and Dayco belt ARE exactly the same width, so don't worry about rubbing, it won't)

6. Tensioner Pulley bolt changes to a 15mm on the Dayco tensioner assembly and is also reverse threaded but will need tightening.

So, in conclusion, a "30 min job" took me 6 hours with all of my problems, but I did learn more about my car and I now it was done right......at least the end result was. LOL

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks for sharing your experiences! Wow...that's a good testament to how a fairly simple job can go very wrong. Glad you got it all figured out!!!

 

No problem. Thats what makes this forum so cool, the fact that everybody has different experiences and tips on how to do things easier and save all of us money in the long run. Now that my cuts on my hands from wedging them between the engine wall and pulley tensioner are finally healing, I can look back at it all and say I would do it all over again.......just with a few more beers on hand (I ran out!)

 

I had my tensioner replaced a year ago under warranty and now the noise is coming back when my a/c is on. Actually it only happens when the fan kicks on.

So I have a question, I now have a UR crank pulley stock sized, do you guys think this has anything to do with it? I have the extended warranty and I hate to have to uninstall the pulley to bring it in then reinstall afterwards.

 

I would think it would make noise all the time, not just when your A/C or Fan is on. Use the "screw driver" method to isolate the noise. It may be your AC condensor and not the puley

 

Tensioner replaced, noise is still there, so yes it's probably the ac condenser. What exactly is this screwdriver method you speak of?

 

Take a long shafted screw driver and touch the tip to the pulley tensioner, A/C Condensor, ETC... and put your ear to the handle and listen. This way you can isolate exactly which part is making the noise. I believe they even make a stethosope for an automobile. Hope this helps.

 

you basically use any long piece of metal and touch it to the pulley and put your ear to it, the one causing the noise will be louder.

did they change the belt when they changed the tensioner pulley assembly? have you had this problem since the UR pulley install? if it just developed and only happens when you kick ac on...might be the AC condenser pulley...although that spins all the time, right?! Could it be as simple as the bearings on the fan that turns on when you kick on the AC?

 

It only started happening recently, it gets worse if it's hot out. I think you're right, it's the AC condenser pulley.

 

keep us posted...

 

Alright so I took it back in and they told me they oiled up the belt and the noise went away. I decided to just change the belt out completely, my extended warranty didn't cover the belt so I had to pay for that out of my own pocket. The noise is gone, at the same time I had my power steering hose replaced under the recall. I'm starting to think the noise might have been coming from the pump but it's too late and I just didn't have time to test that theory.

 

Just an update, the noise came back and the belt was just replaced less than 10k miles. I wonder if it's my UR pulley.

 

Here goes a video, around 51 seconds into the video I have my fiancee turn the AC off then back on for comparison.

 

Replacing my idler pulley, changed everything out and now cant get the bolt to screw back into tensioner assembly. Note tensionser pulley is on and tight, belt off still but screw (turnining clockwise keeps spinnning ) doesnt seem to engage and screw on by hand. i tryed anti clockwise spinning no go. I am at a standstill, this is pure stupidity on my part or i am missing something. I have tried to also push tensioner towards car pit and with other push screw in and turn, still no go.

anyone who can advise?

 

Disregard my previous post. took tensioner off cleaned threads on both ends and then screw went in. But now after inspecting idler pulley which i got from autozone which is part #231107 i believe the inside of pulley doesnt look same.

 

Anyone know what this is coming from? It gets A LOT louder when the car is really cold.

I removed the drive belt, and the noise went away. However, I let the car cool a bit and put the belt back on, and it sounded fine.

 

I have returned two auto zone idler pulley parts due to the fact that when i tighten all the way, the washer starts clicking and not tightening all the way. seems idler pulley outer metal part is hitting the tensioner assembly. Went to advance auto parts and got part number 89059, which has same problem. What is the correct part number that supports the washer when bolting on? I might just need to go to acura to get it. Please advise.

 

When I replaced my pulley I had to re-tap the engine blocks threads, they get messed up real easy. Also, I used Advanced Autos pulley assembly which did not have a recessed hole in the back for the plastic washer that came off the stock Pulley. Some after market pulley assemblys do not require the washer. Had to compare the 2 side by side to figure this out.

 

Sounds like an Idler pulley to me. Last winter my wifes Mazda Tribute made the same noise, but only when really cold outside.

 

Tried Pulley from Advance auto, not able to work it in. Will go to honda today and try to get Honda part instead.

 

With something like that, don't bother with aftermarket...oem all the way.
talk to the parts guy and see if he can help you out with a discount...their discount is 20% above invoice.

 

Went to Honda and picked up part number 31190-RCA-A02. This part number is good on acura and honda as well. Paid $17 OEM.
Part installed and so far no whining noise . Thanks everyone for the detailed writeups.

 

Does the noise change with A/C engagement? It could be any of the pulleys on the serp belt. I've had to replace both the tensioner pulley and the A/C compressor clutch set (pulley w/bearing). The A/C clutch set was the louder of the two. If the noise changes with A/C engagement, I would put my money on the A/C compressor clutch set. Of course diagnosing with a long screw driver/stethoscope at each pulley would be best.

 

So this squealing noise appears anytime during the day, cold or warm outside temps. It will usually go away in 10min or so. I want to change the belt first. Does anyone have an oem part # for the belt?

 

I finally managed to get the A/C on while the car is making the noise. No change whatsoever. It only typically does it for 30-60 seconds, and the A/C won't kick on when it's 10º outside. I almost never use it, but its works fine and never made any odd sounds under normal operating conditions.

I have the two bearings on the way, they're not very expensive and appear to be extremely easy to change.

 

It looks like someone replaced the tensioner pulley in the past, quite likely in an attempt to get rid of the 'chirping' at warm idle caused by the timing belt. The bearing says CHINA on it, and the flange on the face was just a fender washer as compared to the large stamped shroud thats on there stock. The OEM units have NSK bearings.



It's hard to see, but I'm assuming thats not stock.
So far, no noise.

 

nice...I didn't want to deal with having to swap this or that pulley alone, so I bought the whole assembly. Threw the baby out with the bathwater.

 

Hey guys - I just replaced my serpentine belt due to some squeaking on wet days. (65K miles) Got the belt off, and new belt on fine. I checked all pulleys for play with the belt off, and all seemed good and solid.

When I started the car and checked the belt, I noticed the tensioner "vibrating" back and forth (front to back of engine bay). I assumed this was due to a new belt, and from it being folded for a time before installation, and not fully stretched out. I've driven about 100 miles, and it does seem to vibrate less now.

Do you think this is normal, and should I expect to see that the tensioner becomes totally "stable" at some point in the future? I don't remember what it looked like before the replacement.

(BTW, the OEM belt didn't have a single crack in it, but it seemed really "dry" if that makes any sense.)

 

Hi,

do i need any special tools to perform this on my own?

The torque gun and such?

 

When removing the alternator is it possible to release the tension from the belt without removing the tensioner pulley?

 

Yes...belt gets loosened by putting 14mm wrench on the bolt on that pully and pushing forward, then slip it off. Have a breaker bar on on the wrench.

 

One more question, when trying to put the belt back on, I am turning the tensioner towards the firewall and it is not compressing. I was under the impression that it should compress and then you can slip the belt back on?