Strong Vibration During Braking
11-17-2011, 06:47 AM
#41
takin care of Business in
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^^^ I would change ur brake lines....I think that will solve 80% of ur problems....then do a brake flush and you should be all golden !!! 
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burntrat (11-17-2011)
11-17-2011, 07:19 AM
#42
11-17-2011, 11:25 AM
#43
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a noob could try....there is nothing u can mess up here...
brake bleeding is something entirely different....get a hold of a friend who knows what he is doing and buy him a pizza and couple beers
if your in KS, I will help u out....
brake bleeding is something entirely different....get a hold of a friend who knows what he is doing and buy him a pizza and couple beers
if your in KS, I will help u out....
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burntrat (11-17-2011)
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burntrat (11-17-2011)
11-17-2011, 11:34 AM
#45
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^^^ Yeah i think they are and hence the leak....
and I wouldnt recommend a novice to do the bleeding....you can crack the master cylinder seal and end up spending a ton more....
and I wouldnt recommend a novice to do the bleeding....you can crack the master cylinder seal and end up spending a ton more....
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burntrat (11-17-2011)
11-17-2011, 12:52 PM
#46
You know what, I won't risk it. I'll have the acura guys look into it. I just hope it won't cost too much. Thanks for the help guys, especially swoosh with the fast responses.
11-18-2011, 01:05 PM
#49
I have installed numerous types of front brake rotors on my 2KTL from blanks,cross drilled,slotted, combination of both and most if not all are 3000 metal grade iron with straight vane design. All were subjected to long 6 hr trips at speeds 60-80 mostly to vegas on temps of 60-105F wc actually was my litmus test on the rotors. The net result was brake pedal pulsations and very noticeable steering wheel vibrations when the brakes are applied. Scary at times I would say.
Rotors that I have yet to try would be DBA (Disk Brake Australia) featuring the Kangaroo Paw vane design, drilled and slotted,one piece and has the 4000 metal grade quality.
It sells for about $280 a pair online if you want to consider this.
I have not yet read any commentaries from any owner who have installed these particular designed rotors on their TL so it may just be worth the try.
Rotors that I have yet to try would be DBA (Disk Brake Australia) featuring the Kangaroo Paw vane design, drilled and slotted,one piece and has the 4000 metal grade quality.
It sells for about $280 a pair online if you want to consider this.
I have not yet read any commentaries from any owner who have installed these particular designed rotors on their TL so it may just be worth the try.
11-18-2011, 01:54 PM
#50
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I had excactly the same issue last month. I brought it to the mechanics, and they said my Brake Rotor was "out of round". And they had to machine it. Costed about $360 for all 4 done (i only needed 2 done, but i did all 4 just in case).
He also said Brake Rotors being out of round can be caused by rapid cooling of your brake rotor. For instance, driving at fast speeds then suddently slowing down in a puddle. It can also be cause by slaming on your brakes too hard.
He also said Brake Rotors being out of round can be caused by rapid cooling of your brake rotor. For instance, driving at fast speeds then suddently slowing down in a puddle. It can also be cause by slaming on your brakes too hard.
11-19-2011, 07:57 PM
#51
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^^^ its mostly caused by spraying cold water on ur hot ride....drive thro car washes and shiz like that....
burntrat....take it to your guy and get it fixed
burntrat....take it to your guy and get it fixed
11-20-2011, 05:18 AM
#52
I've stated this a few times in the past, brake rotors don't warp, the surface is compromised by the build up of pad material and this uneven coating is what is being felt during brake application.
I had a few articles on the subject at the garage, but just found this on google:
http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/a...aspx?ID=207857
Our '08 knock around vehicle with 70,000 miles was getting pretty bad with the pulsating when stopping, so I roughed up the rotors, installed new pads, and now with over 20,000 miles, still no vibration or pulsatsations. Not saying this will work with every application, but it did in this case.
Actually this is the article I jad in the garage:
http://www.centricparts.com/files/Ce...ake%20Disc.pdf
I had a few articles on the subject at the garage, but just found this on google:
http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/a...aspx?ID=207857
Our '08 knock around vehicle with 70,000 miles was getting pretty bad with the pulsating when stopping, so I roughed up the rotors, installed new pads, and now with over 20,000 miles, still no vibration or pulsatsations. Not saying this will work with every application, but it did in this case.
Actually this is the article I jad in the garage:
http://www.centricparts.com/files/Ce...ake%20Disc.pdf
Last edited by Turbonut; 11-20-2011 at 05:21 AM.
11-22-2011, 05:12 PM
#53
I was told it was warped rotors. It was 'resurfaced' I think? Feels a little better so far.
11-22-2011, 10:33 PM
#54
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^^^ resurfacing is waste of money IMO....
11-23-2011, 01:05 PM
#56
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^^^ my dealer wanted to charge me $45 per rotor 
never inquired about the rates outside...$15/rotor is not bad....
never inquired about the rates outside...$15/rotor is not bad....
11-23-2011, 01:17 PM
#57
Suzuka Master
11-23-2011, 02:26 PM
#58
I wasn't charged anything. I also wasn't really given an option. When I found out what was wrong with it, they finished doing one. On the bright side, I got loaned a 2012 TL.
12-02-2011, 01:13 PM
#62
Do rotors need to be changed annually or by mileage?
12-02-2011, 01:37 PM
#63
12-15-2011, 06:23 AM
#64
Advanced
I had a similar problem. heavy shaking in the steering wheel at high speed braking. figured it was bad rotors, so I changed them out with brand new slotted with new pads... same problem, I took it all back apart and found the top slide pins on both caliper brackets are seized. Would this be my problem?
12-15-2011, 05:24 PM
#65
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