Sticking rear caliper
09-29-2011, 09:01 AM
#1
Sticking rear caliper
Hey whats up fellas I have a 2004 Acura TL and for the past month the rear right caliper was sticking and it wouldnt stick all the time so I went ahead and replace the caliper with a new one along with new rotors and brake pads. And it was fine for like two days and now the brand new caliper is sticking and like the old one its not always but sometimes it sticks, I bled the brakes and everything so I have no idea what it could be. My dad told me it could be the ABS/VSA that needs replacement but im not sure. Any help would be great thanks.
09-29-2011, 08:23 PM
#3
Brake line. If the flexible hose has an internal break it won't allow the fluid to return to the M/C. When it's sticking, try and move the piston back into the bore, and if it doesn't move, open the bleeder and see if the piston can then be pushed back into the caliper.
09-29-2011, 09:37 PM
#5
U know when I bleed the brakes the fronts bleed very easily and fast with a bleed kit and when I bleed the rear right fluid barely came out of the bleeder so I pumped the bleeder pump many times to get the fluid to come out. The rear left bleed just like the front very easily and fluid came out fast. The rear right fluid came out real slow.
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10-07-2011, 06:48 AM
#13
How did yout test to come to the conclusion it's the caliper? If the caliper piston is sticking because of an internal break in the line, or because of corroded caliper bore, the piston will not be able to be moved back into the caliper. If you did some tests and the piston moved back into the caliper, then look elsewhere. Caliper must side easily, clean slider pins and the bake pad retainers not damaged.
10-07-2011, 07:14 AM
#14
How did yout test to come to the conclusion it's the caliper? If the caliper piston is sticking because of an internal break in the line, or because of corroded caliper bore, the piston will not be able to be moved back into the caliper. If you did some tests and the piston moved back into the caliper, then look elsewhere. Caliper must side easily, clean slider pins and the bake pad retainers not damaged.
10-08-2011, 07:19 AM
#15
The only other brake in the area is the "e" brake. Know you had a problem with the RR ABS sensor and replaced the hub, so I'd jack it up and spin the aseembly to see if any resistance noticed. If so, remove the caliper and spin again to see if any relief or still resistance. You can also compare the rotation to the left rear to be sure.
02-22-2012, 07:34 PM
#19
Intermediate
No. You can see the tab on the brake pad was not seated properly causing it to skew off the piston. This would keep the top half of the pad engaged
02-22-2012, 08:03 PM
#20
That's the incorrect pad for the TL. If in fact the part is a 11210 it's for a Mercedes, and the tab on the pad indicates that it's for a screw in rear piston as the tab would be inserted within one of the slots in the piston. The TL has the "normal" push in piston.
03-11-2013, 09:43 AM
#21
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Im having an issue with my caliper now. The piston was ceased up to I replaced the caliper and my pedal is dropping to the floor. I do have some pressure in the breaking but I have to pump it to stop. I bled all the lines and it still does it. does anybody know what it could be?
10-14-2015, 07:53 AM
#23
Senior Moderator
10-18-2015, 02:38 PM
#24
10-18-2015, 02:41 PM
#25
Could you give me what is your problem...I replace pad, caliper ....line...etc...stil dragging at the rear right...help please.
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merc009
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