Soft brake pedal. Need Help!
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Yonkers, NY
Age: 45
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Soft brake pedal. Need Help!
Everytime I press the brake I feel regular pressure as I should, but when I come to a stop and I hold the brake pedal for example at a stop light, about 2 seconds in after im holding constant pressure on the pedal I feel the pedal start to fall toward the floor. It falls about 2 inches or so. I spoke to one of my buddies and he told me to pump the pedal with the car off until it gets solid and then turn the car on and it should remain solid as you hold the pedal down. So I did this but when I turn the car on the pedal drops to the floor slowly. I bled the brakes a few weeks ago alonside my buddy and everything seemed fine up until now. I have no clue what could be wrong. Any ideas???
#2
What order did you bleed the brakes in?
the TL is diferent than any car I have ever worked on!!
LF Driver FRONT first!! then clockwise around the car
LF RF RR LR
If doing it again doesnt help- you may have a bad master or bad brake booster
When bleeding brakes its crucial not to push the pedal all the way to the floor
a piece of 2x4 will limit the pedal to 2/3 of its travel- too far hurts seals in master cylinder and more
the TL is diferent than any car I have ever worked on!!
LF Driver FRONT first!! then clockwise around the car
LF RF RR LR
If doing it again doesnt help- you may have a bad master or bad brake booster
When bleeding brakes its crucial not to push the pedal all the way to the floor
a piece of 2x4 will limit the pedal to 2/3 of its travel- too far hurts seals in master cylinder and more
#5
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Basit06TL
Everytime I press the brake I feel regular pressure as I should, but when I come to a stop and I hold the brake pedal for example at a stop light, about 2 seconds in after im holding constant pressure on the pedal I feel the pedal start to fall toward the floor. It falls about 2 inches or so. I spoke to one of my buddies and he told me to pump the pedal with the car off until it gets solid and then turn the car on and it should remain solid as you hold the pedal down. So I did this but when I turn the car on the pedal drops to the floor slowly. I bled the brakes a few weeks ago alonside my buddy and everything seemed fine up until now. I have no clue what could be wrong. Any ideas???
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Yonkers, NY
Age: 45
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bled them in the same order thats stated in the Acura manual. I did it because I had alittle over 30k miles on the car and was just doing some preventative maintenance on the car and also decided to bleed the brakes while I was at it. Would bleeding the brakes this one time give me a bad master? Also, If I took it in to the dealer this should be covered under warranty correct?
#7
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Basit06TL
I bled them in the same order thats stated in the Acura manual. I did it because I had alittle over 30k miles on the car and was just doing some preventative maintenance on the car and also decided to bleed the brakes while I was at it. Would bleeding the brakes this one time give me a bad master? Also, If I took it in to the dealer this should be covered under warranty correct?
Trending Topics
#9
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Basit06TL
No they became alittle soft a few weeks after I bled them. I was thinking of purchasing a brake bleeder and doing it all over again.
#11
I am going to have to agree with 01tl4tl on this. Usually a sinking pedal as you describe is due to a bad seal in the master cylinder causing a internal leak. It's not uncommon to ruin a seal when bleeding the brakes if you push the pedal all the way to the floor. See if you can't get it replaced under warranty, just forget to mention the details of you bleeding the brakes.
#12
it's me, Alan Rickman.
This doesn't sound like your problem.. BUT..
I believe when you come to a stop and your engine hits normal idle you will feel a slight change in the brake pedal; since the engine is no longer running at a high RPM the vacuum used to assist the brakes is not as great, and you will feel a slight change in the pedal
right? I think thats correct.. I don't ever pay attention to it because it's normal =/
I believe when you come to a stop and your engine hits normal idle you will feel a slight change in the brake pedal; since the engine is no longer running at a high RPM the vacuum used to assist the brakes is not as great, and you will feel a slight change in the pedal
right? I think thats correct.. I don't ever pay attention to it because it's normal =/
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Yonkers, NY
Age: 45
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Timmahh
This doesn't sound like your problem.. BUT..
I believe when you come to a stop and your engine hits normal idle you will feel a slight change in the brake pedal; since the engine is no longer running at a high RPM the vacuum used to assist the brakes is not as great, and you will feel a slight change in the pedal
right? I think thats correct.. I don't ever pay attention to it because it's normal =/
I believe when you come to a stop and your engine hits normal idle you will feel a slight change in the brake pedal; since the engine is no longer running at a high RPM the vacuum used to assist the brakes is not as great, and you will feel a slight change in the pedal
right? I think thats correct.. I don't ever pay attention to it because it's normal =/
#14
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Timmahh
This doesn't sound like your problem.. BUT..
I believe when you come to a stop and your engine hits normal idle you will feel a slight change in the brake pedal; since the engine is no longer running at a high RPM the vacuum used to assist the brakes is not as great, and you will feel a slight change in the pedal
right? I think thats correct.. I don't ever pay attention to it because it's normal =/
I believe when you come to a stop and your engine hits normal idle you will feel a slight change in the brake pedal; since the engine is no longer running at a high RPM the vacuum used to assist the brakes is not as great, and you will feel a slight change in the pedal
right? I think thats correct.. I don't ever pay attention to it because it's normal =/
#17
When you have the car turned off, press the brakes a couple of times until the brake gets hard. With the car still off, press it again for 15-30 seconds. Since you have no vacuum with the engine off, if the pedal sinks, you most likely have a bad master cylinder or a leak somewhere, but since you said the fluid levels were full, i doubt you have an external leak.
#18
Originally Posted by Basit06TL
Everytime I press the brake I feel regular pressure as I should, but when I come to a stop and I hold the brake pedal for example at a stop light, about 2 seconds in after im holding constant pressure on the pedal I feel the pedal start to fall toward the floor. It falls about 2 inches or so. I spoke to one of my buddies and he told me to pump the pedal with the car off until it gets solid and then turn the car on and it should remain solid as you hold the pedal down. So I did this but when I turn the car on the pedal drops to the floor slowly. I bled the brakes a few weeks ago alonside my buddy and everything seemed fine up until now. I have no clue what could be wrong. Any ideas???
Thanks!
#19
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by fjstein01
I am experiancing the issue exact issue with my '96 TL. Were you ever able to indentify cause and fix it?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#20
Racer
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ft Lauderdale Fl
Age: 48
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by supadupahyphy
I had the same problem, took it in to the dealer. There they found out after some testing that it was a faulty master cylinder. The part had to be ordered but had it fixed within a week and they let me roll an RDX ![Thumbs Down](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsdown.gif)
![Thumbs Down](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsdown.gif)
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Yonkers, NY
Age: 45
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The problem seems to have gone away. I dont feel the soft pedal anymore and i've been keeping an eye on the brake fluid levels and they have been fine since this problem arose. Im going to keep an eye on it and pay attention to the brake to see if it comes around again. I don't think I had a faulty master cylinder, maybe just some air in the lines.
#22
air does not go away on its own- it is trapped in the system if its there
Find the real problem or expect an expensive surprise soon
Find the real problem or expect an expensive surprise soon
#23
I'm having this same exact problem on my 2004 TL. The brake pedal has always felt pretty soft but recently it's become a lot softer and when I'm sitting at a light with the brake pressed, the pedal moves slightly further in like it's losing pressure.
I'm debating if I should bother replacing/bleeding the brake fluid or if I should just have the dealer check it out. I'm guessing it's either the master cylinder or this service bulletin. I hate going to the dealer...
I'm debating if I should bother replacing/bleeding the brake fluid or if I should just have the dealer check it out. I'm guessing it's either the master cylinder or this service bulletin. I hate going to the dealer...
#25
When you have the car turned off, press the brakes a couple of times until the brake gets hard. With the car still off, press it again for 15-30 seconds. Since you have no vacuum with the engine off, if the pedal sinks, you most likely have a bad master cylinder or a leak somewhere, but since you said the fluid levels were full, i doubt you have an external leak.
Has anyone ever replaced their brake master cylinder? I usually do all my own work but I've never messed with the master cylinder before, so I'm not quite sure what's involved. I know the master cylinders run about $130.
#26
I would seriously doubt that this is a true way to test if the master cylinder has gone bad or not. If the pedal goes soft, or bleeds off to the floor, then it has to be either a bad master cylinder or air in the lines. Now, the only way for air to be in the lines is because either you are really low on fluid (and sucking air into the master cylinder) or you have a leak somewhere in the lines. I am seriously doubtful that it has anything to do with the VSA; The VSA senses things such as pedal force, wheel slippage, steering wheel angle to determine if the car is sliding. The car then compensates the sliding by applying brakes to different wheels to compensate (it also controls engine torque for the sake of the discussion). From past experience it definitely sounds like a bad master cylinder. I had a similar experience with an old Lexus; I would be sitting at a light with my foot on the pedal then it would gradually go to the floor. I would then pump it up and then it would repeat.
I also have had the privilege of replacing a master cylinder. The procedure is fairly simple, but could be messy if you aren’t careful (And brake fluid will eat paint off a car like a fat kid eats bacon off a breakfast plate). Some musts are:
You need to bench bleed the new cylinder before you actually put it in the car. This gets the new master cylinder primed so you can actually bleed out the entire system.
Installing it depends on the car but it is fairly simple. Just remove the old but make sure you are careful with spilling the brake fluid in the old MC. I would recommend removing as much brake fluid from the old reservoir as possible. Use a cheap turkey baster, just throw it away when done. If you spill any fluid wipe it up immediately. I would also recommend having a bucket of water/soap and a towel near by just in case.
Installing the new one is just the opposite as removing the old. Like I said, just make sure the MC bench bled before installing. When done bleed the system so no air is left in the lines.
When bleeding the system, bleed each wheel starting from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder (back right), and then moving to the next closest wheel until you have all the air out of each line. I would get several bottles of brake fluid. I would also recommend getting a check valve if you are going to bleed the system your self (this isn’t absolutely necessary but sometimes if you have a lot of air in your lines it could be pretty frustrating). All this does is ensure the air and fluid is moving in only one direction and isn’t oscillating back and forth.
I would also recommend getting a full repair manual for your car. They are really helpful. Good luck.
I also have had the privilege of replacing a master cylinder. The procedure is fairly simple, but could be messy if you aren’t careful (And brake fluid will eat paint off a car like a fat kid eats bacon off a breakfast plate). Some musts are:
You need to bench bleed the new cylinder before you actually put it in the car. This gets the new master cylinder primed so you can actually bleed out the entire system.
Installing it depends on the car but it is fairly simple. Just remove the old but make sure you are careful with spilling the brake fluid in the old MC. I would recommend removing as much brake fluid from the old reservoir as possible. Use a cheap turkey baster, just throw it away when done. If you spill any fluid wipe it up immediately. I would also recommend having a bucket of water/soap and a towel near by just in case.
Installing the new one is just the opposite as removing the old. Like I said, just make sure the MC bench bled before installing. When done bleed the system so no air is left in the lines.
When bleeding the system, bleed each wheel starting from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder (back right), and then moving to the next closest wheel until you have all the air out of each line. I would get several bottles of brake fluid. I would also recommend getting a check valve if you are going to bleed the system your self (this isn’t absolutely necessary but sometimes if you have a lot of air in your lines it could be pretty frustrating). All this does is ensure the air and fluid is moving in only one direction and isn’t oscillating back and forth.
I would also recommend getting a full repair manual for your car. They are really helpful. Good luck.
#27
Race Director
No!!!!! Proper bleed sequence for TL is LF,RF, RR, LR. Or in other words, start at the driver's side front wheel and move clockwise.
#28
There is a service bulletin (posted earlier in this thread) that suggests the VSA modulator can be faulty and allow air to enter the brake system.
With the car off, I pump up the brake pedals and hold it. If I press the pedal with a decent amount of pressure, the pedal will press in further. However, with a "normal" amount of pressure, it pretty much stays put. I'm guessing the pedal shouldn't move at all, regardless of how hard I press the pedal?
I'm guessing/hoping it's either a bad master cylinder or air in the system. I'm doubting it's air in the system because I haven't touched anything in the brake system and I don't see how air could have magically entered.
With the car off, I pump up the brake pedals and hold it. If I press the pedal with a decent amount of pressure, the pedal will press in further. However, with a "normal" amount of pressure, it pretty much stays put. I'm guessing the pedal shouldn't move at all, regardless of how hard I press the pedal?
I'm guessing/hoping it's either a bad master cylinder or air in the system. I'm doubting it's air in the system because I haven't touched anything in the brake system and I don't see how air could have magically entered.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GWEEDOspeedo
Car Parts for Sale
4
01-15-2016 10:39 PM