Originally Posted by I hate cars

Everytime this thread gets bumped I'm afraid to read it because of the impending failure. Normally I would say screw it and go with at least 50% Type F and 50% DexIII but due to the potential binding, the shudder would probably go away but the binding could get worse.

You can always do a single drain and fill with straight type F and see what gets better and what gets worse. If done on a weekend you would have time to swap back if the binding gets worse.

That's just a bandaid unfortunately since it clearly doesn't work right. Honestly, if it is under warranty and if they refuse to help you, I would make sure it doesnt last another 100 miles. PM me if you choose to take that route and I can help you out.

If the shop was smart, they would begin looking into the electronics, it would save all of you some headaches down the road. Sometimes the case itself or the valvebody can have cross leaks. This is exactly why a good shop does not replace just the worn parts. You might have had burned 3rd gear clutches while the rest looked good and I've seem it first hand many times when I would get another shops comebacks, the bad clutches were replaced but the trans weren't actually rebuilt and of course the same failure occurred again. There are dynamic sealing rings on various shafts, lots of rubber seals that have to withstand several hundred psi of hydraulic pressure, stuck valves or broken springs in the valvebody, cross leaks, etc. I've gotten transmissions that were supposedly rebuilt that when taken apart were never rebuilt, just the bare minimum parts replaced while I go in and find an old hardened rubber seal that's bleeding off pressure causing slip and shudder and it usually takes many years and miles before they harden so it's obvious they were never replaced.

I don't mean to go off on a rant but the fact that your car is doing the exact same thing and they're no doing much about it tells me they probably just replaced whatever failed and that's it, no matter what they told you.

Going back over it, I see that the shudder is after the shift (I probably should have re-read the thread first) so it's likely the torque converter. I remember there being a solenoid that goes bad that affects the lockup and leads to slippage and then overheating. That might be one of the linear solenoids they said they replaced. I would at least start there.

I wonder if the solenoid responsible for TCC lockup is external and can be unplugged for testing and importantly if it can be unplugged can it be done without affecting anything else. If you're able to unplug it for testing and the shudder goes away you've found what's doing it.

I can't believe I forgot his username but there's one member on here that's very familiar with it.

Originally Posted by mreducated100

Fluid would not make a difference in this case. I have the same issue and I can say that redline d4 helps way more that dw-1. But the issue still exist.

Originally Posted by Due_Diligence

I was honestly thinking of putting OEM tranny fluid in to see if that would help but I was afraid to because I saw that they put this blue stuff on the drain plug. I was thinking that maybe it was used as an indicator to see if I changed the fluid or not. Or... it could be used as a personal "check" indicator to tell them if it was accounted for?