frankjnjr

Just finished installing an un-cracked used dash in my 08 TL Base w/Nav. Everything went according to plan, except when I went to start the car. It cranks, but won't start. In addition, now, neither of the remotes will work. No blown fuses, no loose connections or grounds, Retraced most every step of the process and I'm at a loss as to what I did wrong. There are no codes. It's almost like the remotes have lost their connection to the car! I logged the disassembly process, piece by piece, connector by connector, even put all securing hardware in separate small bottles, in an effort to insure I got every nut, bolt and clip back exactly where it belongs. I would sincerely appreciate anyone here who may be able to offer some insight on my problem. FWIW, the new dash looks fantastic.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps an ignition wire did not get connected.

frankjnjr

I pulled the wheel and clockspring just to make certain everything up top was properly connected. The puzzler is that the remotes no longer work! Appreciate the reply. Be safe

frankjnjr

Since the Green Key icon in the cluster is blinking, I'm confident the issue is related to the immobilizer. I just can't understand why, or how I managed to impact that system. Sorry I didn't mention the blinking key in my initial post.

t-rd

Can you take down the immobilizer light blinking pattern when you turn the key to the II position?

frankjnjr

Will do, soon as I get back home.

frankjnjr

Hey tr-d, there is no pattern to the light blinking. It will blink 100 times with equal consistency, about one half second between blinks.

frankjnjr

Crank but no start problem solved. After removing, and inspecting all security system related components, I found two bent pins on the IMOES unit. Straightened out the pins and car starts and runs. Everything, with the exception of the remotes, works as it should. I'll reprogram the remotes tomorrow. Thank You Acura shop manual. CHANGING out a dash is NO JOKE! Would I do it again? Absolutely!

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

How long did it take you, @frankjnjr ?

Jermall Brown

Where is the IMOES UNIT LOCATED AND HOW DO I GET TO IT I JUMPED A PIN ON MY OB2 DLC PORT AND NOW THE KEY BUT EVERYTHING IS IN ORDER AND WORKS SAME AS YOUR CAR

frankjnjr

It is located on the right hand side of the dash, above, and toward the passenger side, of the passenger air bag. It is very difficult to get to, but it can be done. There is a schematic in the Acura service manual which shows the location of all the related sensors. Don't remember the page but it is in there.

frankjnjr

How long did it take me to replace the dash, from start to finish, not including the time it took to remove the dash from the donor car, TWENTY TWO HOURS AND TWENTY THREE MINUTES. Of course, that included the time necessary to trouble shoot, and correct the crank, but no start condition. It's not a terrible job, just time consuming, and frustrating at times. Knowing what I know now, I'm confident I could do it in 12 hours, or less.

Jermall Brown

Thanks I'm thinking about just jumping my main relay n fuel pump to be able to start up my car and get from point a to b intil I can fix the flashing green key.... I didn't remove anything to bend the immoes pins

frankjnjr

I don't know of any way you could damage any segment of the IMOES system, without physically removing and replacing one of it's specific components, so it is doubtful your issue is related to the one I experienced.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

When you had issues with the IMOES system, did you unplug a connector rough or something, and that's why you had problems?

frankjnjr

I have no idea how the two pins got bent. I removed the donor car dash, and had to leave it at the salvage yard overnight. When I returned the next day to retrieve it, it had been moved from the spot where I left it. When transferring all the components from the original dash to the donor dash, I do not recall any difficulty installing any of the sensors or harness connectors, so it's a mystery to me how I bent the two pins in question. I surmise, something must have gotten into one side of the connector, causing the pins to distort, but due to the location of this particular sensor, whatever caused the damage was not evident, when i discovered, and corrected the two misaligned pins.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

Any bolts that were hard to get to or that the torque was hard to break on any of the bolts?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

cheater...
figure it out!

frankjnjr

No bolts were particularly difficult to get to, and no, I didn't find any bolts, which required more oomph than my pipe stem arms could supply, to remove. This job appears much more intimidating, when looking at the pics, than it actually is.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

I got all the major bolts and steps done to remove the dash without removing the driver seat, steering wheel, etc.

Did you remove the steering wheel or just drop the steering wheel column?

frankjnjr

I removed the the steering wheel, and both front seats as well. It's much easier to access everything without having to maneuver around the steering wheel and seats, IMO. Also, my intent was to steam clean the carpets at the same time. May not be necessary, but I'm no kid anymore and I need all the help I can get. For me, it was a difficult enough process, with the steering wheel and both front seats removed. I wouldn't like to attempt it with the wheel and seats still in place.