When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am the type of guy that thinks nothing is better done then by ourselves. I tend to outsource labor only if I have to. I also have a lot of imagination when it comes to finding solutions. I inspire myself from others online and try to make things my own way.
Yesterday, I decided to repair my sub-woofer and passenger door speaker using "redneck" methods using household items and posted my findings here. It turned out great so I decided to make another episode.
Just before, what constitutes a redneck repair? A repair made using unconventional ways, using household items, or a combinations of, and imagination, to make a repair. Usually redneck repairs don't look very professional, but I can tell you a good redneck repair is not too far from the same result, if not just as good as the official way. A redneck repair cannot compromise safety, it has to be a cheap alternative that cost a fraction of what a real repair would cost.
This morning I hit a bump in the road and a part of my exhaust started leaking as I noticed a very deep noise coming from under the car. I looked under the car and saw that the pipe that was put instead of my resonator was separated from the rest of the exhaust. Of course, I didn't replace the resonator myself because I would have been smart enough to use stainless instead of something that looks completely rusted after only 1 year. So I decided to do another redneck repair.
This can fix almost any exhaust leak for the long term, or maybe even permanently, for between 20-30$.
Material:
- Steel wool
- Aluminum tape
- Exhaust clamps or some other bracket you can tighten
- Stainless Steele sheets (or for the super redneck, and old food can)
REMEMBER TO ALWAYS SECURE YOUR CAR 3X WHILE WORKING UNDER IT. I used a hydraulic 3 ton jack to lift the back of the car using my towing hook, i put jack stands on both rear jack points and I put bricks in front of the front tires to make sure the car can't go anywhere. I also pushed and shoved the car on each side to make sure there are no weak points.
Step 1: Place the steel wool around the leak. Be sure to cover the entire leak. I had a 1/4 inch crack between the stock exhaust and the pipe put in place of the resonator. I used about 1 steel wool pad and was able to wrap the pipe twice.
Step 2: Cover the crack, and about 3 inches on each side of the gap, with aluminum tape. Be generous with the tape and be sure to squeeze it in place with your hand so it's nice and tight around the pipe and wool. I ignored the rust, as it was too advanced for me to do anything to stop it. It also was not going to affect the repair much, pressure would be the biggest factor holding everything together.
Step 3: Wrap everything with the steel sheets (or can) and clamp down tight using 2 clamps on each side of the leak. If you used the stainless sheets, you can also squeeze everything by hand once the clamps are down to make sure it's all nice and tight.
Since I was already down there, I figured i'd do the front junction. The end result is quite solid. I think I had a leak for some time because after the repair the car was very quiet, much more than in the past weeks.
Combien de kilo? Faudrait peut etre penser a le faire réparer pour vrai si tu veux le garder longtemps.
173K. Et oui, maintenant que je sais que le con de garagiste a utilisé de l'acier normal, je fais une solution temporaire parce que ca m'est arrivé ce matin et je devais prendre ma voiture apres souper, probablement voir si ca va me tougher l'hiver, et ensuite je vais faire le travail comme il faut.
Of course, but since this happened this morning, and I needed my car in the evening, I had to find a temporary solution. But this worked quite a bit better than i hoped for. I will see if it lasts the beating of winter and do the job properly in spring.
I am the type of guy that thinks nothing is better done then by ourselves. I tend to outsource labor only if I have to. I also have a lot of imagination when it comes to finding solutions. I inspire myself from others online and try to make things my own way.
Yesterday, I decided to repair my sub-woofer and passenger door speaker using "redneck" methods using household items and posted my findings here. It turned out great so I decided to make another episode.
Just before, what constitutes a redneck repair? A repair made using unconventional ways, using household items, or a combinations of, and imagination, to make a repair. Usually redneck repairs don't look very professional, but I can tell you a good redneck repair is not too far from the same result, if not just as good as the official way. A redneck repair cannot compromise safety, it has to be a cheap alternative that cost a fraction of what a real repair would cost.
This morning I hit a bump in the road and a part of my exhaust started leaking as I noticed a very deep noise coming from under the car. I looked under the car and saw that the pipe that was put instead of my resonator was separated from the rest of the exhaust. Of course, I didn't replace the resonator myself because I would have been smart enough to use stainless instead of something that looks completely rusted after only 1 year. So I decided to do another redneck repair.
This can fix almost any exhaust leak for the long term, or maybe even permanently, for between 20-30$.
Material:
- Steel wool
- Aluminum tape
- Exhaust clamps or some other bracket you can tighten
- Stainless Steele sheets (or for the super redneck, and old food can)
REMEMBER TO ALWAYS SECURE YOUR CAR 3X WHILE WORKING UNDER IT. I used a hydraulic 3 ton jack to lift the back of the car using my towing hook, i put jack stands on both rear jack points and I put bricks in front of the front tires to make sure the car can't go anywhere. I also pushed and shoved the car on each side to make sure there are no weak points.
Step 1: Place the steel wool around the leak. Be sure to cover the entire leak. I had a 1/4 inch crack between the stock exhaust and the pipe put in place of the resonator. I used about 1 steel wool pad and was able to wrap the pipe twice.
Step 2: Cover the crack, and about 3 inches on each side of the gap, with aluminum tape. Be generous with the tape and be sure to squeeze it in place with your hand so it's nice and tight around the pipe and wool. I ignored the rust, as it was too advanced for me to do anything to stop it. It also was not going to affect the repair much, pressure would be the biggest factor holding everything together.
Step 3: Wrap everything with the steel sheets (or can) and clamp down tight using 2 clamps on each side of the leak. If you used the stainless sheets, you can also squeeze everything by hand once the clamps are down to make sure it's all nice and tight.
Since I was already down there, I figured i'd do the front junction. The end result is quite solid. I think I had a leak for some time because after the repair the car was very quiet, much more than in the past weeks.
I had constant leaks in my non-ford vehicle. After failing state inspections because I couldnt find an aftermarket fix to my leaking flange I designed one. No cutting, no replacing the flange which usually becomes heat fatigued and bends letting out hot exhaust gases and not welding. C Flange Bracket is what I called it. This is not a spam or gimmick. This is a real American designed fix. I suspect, besides sealing the cabin from outside airflow, exhaust fumes that can be smelled from within the cabin is resulting from a crack in the exhaust system or from a failed connector component. A small leak can become a big problem.
Please comment. To the Admin, plz dont remove. This forum is for ideas to problems and mine is simply one of those ideas. Other forums strangely and without explanation removed my post.
10-01-2015, 07:10 PM
