Rear subframe

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Old 02-29-2012 | 08:32 AM
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Rear subframe

As some of you know, I've been fighting my insurance.
on Jan. 29th the vehicle was ready for pickup.
I test drove and had some concerns about the car.

the shop told me to drive it for a few days to let everything settle.
I didnt have the car for even a week, and sent it right back.

The insurance company is saying that in that short week, I damaged the rear subframe.

I do have a meeting with them to review my car on Friday.
Now, this is where I need help.
they have said that the rear subframe is bent.
How much force would cause the rear subframe to bend?


Remember, my original accident happened on Dec. 29th 2011. I wrecked into a curb at about 30-35 miles per hour.
it caused the front sub frame to bend, and the insurance company replaced that.

they are saying that the new subframe that they replaced has some scuffs.
leading to bend the rear subframe.

obviously, I cant tell how bent the rear subframe is because I dont have the car.

cliffs
-Help me take down these insurance MOFOS.
- needs to know in what position and how hard of an impact can cause the rear subframe to be bent.
- they cited mud on the rear subframe, but not on the front subframe they replaced. if I were to go offroading, again....wouldnt there be mud on the front?
-my beautiful bumper that they freshly painted is FLAWLESS. if I were to get into some position to where the rear subframe bent, wouldnt that impact show from front to back....

I'm just ranting now, but i guess anything can help
Old 02-29-2012 | 09:40 AM
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Old 02-29-2012 | 09:41 AM
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^dont catch any crabs in Vegas.
Old 02-29-2012 | 09:43 AM
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I was going to post a coherent argument in your favor.. nvm.
Old 02-29-2012 | 09:46 AM
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^lies.
Old 02-29-2012 | 10:03 AM
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30-35... so you basically launched your car over the curb.

I think that alone is proof that the original incident was harsh enough to cause the damage. There is no fucking way you bent the rear without damaging the car.


If you want to get real technical. Go over the work on the front.. check the specs. Then go over the rear. Majofo never takes delivery until the work is done right. :mrcrabs:


Rear subframe-wpaoh.png
Old 02-29-2012 | 10:07 AM
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You have pics of the whole car after the accident. It will help to win your case. Also, don't back down from the adjuster. You need to go into the discussion as an expert, not some skirt willing to fork over more money because you need new blinker fluid.
Old 02-29-2012 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Majofo
You have pics of the whole car after the accident. It will help to win your case. Also, don't back down from the adjuster. You need to go into the discussion as an expert, not some skirt willing to fork over more money because you need new blinker fluid.
I only have pics of the FRONT of the car. damage was extensive at front, as bumper and front subframe took brunt damage.

Right, I asked for a meeting with the supervisor. they dismissed me and looked at the car again, without me being present.
I then demanded a meeting on friday at the shop.
without looking at the rear subframe damage, the only thing I got is the MUD.
Hopefully, the evidence points in my favor.
Old 02-29-2012 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by justnspace







fuck.. yeah.. I'd say that's enough.
Old 02-29-2012 | 03:04 PM
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600horses is too fast man...lololol
Old 02-29-2012 | 03:06 PM
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^I know, man. it sucks having all this horsepower.
Old 02-29-2012 | 03:10 PM
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ur reckless. dmv need to keep u off the road
Old 02-29-2012 | 03:11 PM
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Hate to tell ya, but my license was revoked 5 years ago.
Old 02-29-2012 | 03:12 PM
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im reporting u
Old 02-29-2012 | 03:34 PM
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600 my little ponies.. that's it???.. I have two azine stickers on my slab.. I twisted my front and rear subframe doing 2k.. I traveled through time after 4k.
Old 02-29-2012 | 05:13 PM
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your biggest weapon will have to be before and actual alignment measurements. if the actual measurements match measurements prior to the release of the car you are good.
Old 02-29-2012 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JETSPD1477
your biggest weapon will have to be before and actual alignment measurements. if the actual measurements match measurements prior to the release of the car you are good.
Great point...
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