Good evening,
For a few months I've had problems with my rear left passenger door not locking or unlocking with either key fob, nor with the master lock on the driver's door. Before that, I've had some B-codes where the MICU was the culprit, and had it replaced at the Acura dealership. Well today I finally made an attempt to fix the problem and purchased a new actuator. But even after replacing the actuator, there was still no signal to lock or unlock the door. I've done the 2P and 3P tests for the actuator. The door knock switch works, and actuator works when applying battery voltage. The problem is that there isn't power or signal being delivered to the BLK/YLW wires to the actuator, and I'm not sure how to test and trace this wire, or even know how it's routed. Is there anyone who has input on this?

 

So I’ve gathered that I’d have to jump battery power between terminals E2(BLK/YLW), and E8(YLW) and ground it with a jumper wire to terminal H9(BLK), and if there is no open in the line, then the actuator door should lock/unlock. I’ve attached a photo below and wanted confirmation that this is indeed correct. Granted they want this test done at the connector ends, not the terminals of the MICU, just for visual comparison.

 

UPDATE: MY problem is resolved.
I took some time out of my day to remove my door panel. After using the helms to locate the wiring, I isolated the wire harness for the passenger door panel by disconnecting the wire harness at the chassis circled in red. I then used a DMM to measure for continuity between the actuator door connector circled in red with a jumper on the left. to the BLK/YLW, BLK pins on the disconnected connector circled in red on the right. I read an "O.L", meaning we had no continuity. I then removed the harness from the door and I found a severed BLK/YLW wire. I properly resoldered and applied heat shrink and di-electric grease to the newly soldered joints. After reinstallation, my door locks/unlocks as needed. I've had issues with this problem for the longest time, and repeatedly kept seeing posts telling members to replace the actuator. I found this is extremely unhelpful because there wasn't proper diagnosis. So for anyone who has a similar problem, check the door harness itself. Over time the connector wires near the door hinges may fail due to opening and closing the door. This applies to the 07-08 TL, not sure about 04-06 TL.

 

Posting to share my rear driver door was the only door that wouldn't unlock or lock when key fob and front master switches were used. It would only open manually. Knowing the only door not functioning likely meant a door actuator, I went ahead and worked through replacing the rear door actuator. After putting in the new unit, it would still not work. I measured the two prong harness (power supply) while unlocking-locking and found no power to the harness. I assumed that meant an MICU issue, but found this post. I pulled back the rubber grommet from the cabin side to the door side and through the door hole to expose the harness located in the cabin b-pillar. A quick inspection showed a clear break in the yellow wire to the door actuator. I repaired the wire and the door lock works great.

I forgot to mention earlier in the troubleshooting, I provided batter voltage directly to the old and new actuators and both were functional. My next step would be to remove MICU and test for continuity at the applicable power wires in the 'E' socket - and if that passed inspection, then replace MICU.