Rear calipers siezed up
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Joined: Jun 2008
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Rear calipers siezed up
I replaced all my pads two months ago and did a brake fluid flush. A couple days ago I noticed a burning rubber smell after driving. It went away the next day then came back. It was my driver's side rear wheel. Also got really hot. I thought it might be the parking brake but turns out the caliper was siezed and I had been driving with the brakes engaged for three days. I can't say I noticed anything while driving.
Went ahead and had both rear rotors, calipers and pads replaced by a local shop. $600. I tried to do it myself but couldn't break the caliper bolts loose. I wonder if flushing the fluid had something to do with the caliper's siezing up? It's the 2nd time I've flushed the fluid. Seems like something that shouldn't happen with only 65K miles. Hopefully the fronts don't go anytime soon.
2005 TL Base with 65K miles.
Went ahead and had both rear rotors, calipers and pads replaced by a local shop. $600. I tried to do it myself but couldn't break the caliper bolts loose. I wonder if flushing the fluid had something to do with the caliper's siezing up? It's the 2nd time I've flushed the fluid. Seems like something that shouldn't happen with only 65K miles. Hopefully the fronts don't go anytime soon.
2005 TL Base with 65K miles.
I just replaced the same caliper last weekend. It was seized. I also think the parking brake was rubbing so i adjusted that out a click or two. I have about twice the miles you do but might just be the age of the car making this happen, not flushing the fluid.
600 seems like a good deal for two new calipers, rotors pads and labor.
600 seems like a good deal for two new calipers, rotors pads and labor.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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I just replaced the same caliper last weekend. It was seized. I also think the parking brake was rubbing so i adjusted that out a click or two. I have about twice the miles you do but might just be the age of the car making this happen, not flushing the fluid.
600 seems like a good deal for two new calipers, rotors pads and labor.
600 seems like a good deal for two new calipers, rotors pads and labor.
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Joined: Jan 2009
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Does the vehicle sit outside for prolonged periods of time? Do you get a lot of rain or snow? Miles have little impact on brake calipers. You really need to use them to keep the piston and slides moving. Plus, heating them up helps sitting water evaporate and avoid some corrosion.
If you park the car outside, and don't use it for long periods of time in an area that gets a lot of precipitation, you can expect lots of seized calipers. It's not a bad idea to slam on the brakes every once in a while in a safe area. Depending on conditions, it's not very good for brakes to sit idle or barely used.
If you park the car outside, and don't use it for long periods of time in an area that gets a lot of precipitation, you can expect lots of seized calipers. It's not a bad idea to slam on the brakes every once in a while in a safe area. Depending on conditions, it's not very good for brakes to sit idle or barely used.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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Does the vehicle sit outside for prolonged periods of time? Do you get a lot of rain or snow? Miles have little impact on brake calipers. You really need to use them to keep the piston and slides moving. Plus, heating them up helps sitting water evaporate and avoid some corrosion.
If you park the car outside, and don't use it for long periods of time in an area that gets a lot of precipitation, you can expect lots of seized calipers. It's not a bad idea to slam on the brakes every once in a while in a safe area. Depending on conditions, it's not very good for brakes to sit idle or barely used.
If you park the car outside, and don't use it for long periods of time in an area that gets a lot of precipitation, you can expect lots of seized calipers. It's not a bad idea to slam on the brakes every once in a while in a safe area. Depending on conditions, it's not very good for brakes to sit idle or barely used.
Needless to say this is the first car I've ever had with this problem.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2009
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Do you know if it was the slides, or the piston that seized?
If you use it every day it's a bit out of line, but its certainly not out of the question. About 80-90% of the time I replaced pads/rotors on semi-floating rear brakes at least the lower slide is seized. Most people don't take the time to properly inspect, clean, lubricate, or replace those. If the seals are cracked or not properly seated the slides will seize very quickly. Especially in areas with salt or snow getting packed into wheel wells.
If you use it every day it's a bit out of line, but its certainly not out of the question. About 80-90% of the time I replaced pads/rotors on semi-floating rear brakes at least the lower slide is seized. Most people don't take the time to properly inspect, clean, lubricate, or replace those. If the seals are cracked or not properly seated the slides will seize very quickly. Especially in areas with salt or snow getting packed into wheel wells.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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Do you know if it was the slides, or the piston that seized?
If you use it every day it's a bit out of line, but its certainly not out of the question. About 80-90% of the time I replaced pads/rotors on semi-floating rear brakes at least the lower slide is seized. Most people don't take the time to properly inspect, clean, lubricate, or replace those. If the seals are cracked or not properly seated the slides will seize very quickly. Especially in areas with salt or snow getting packed into wheel wells.
If you use it every day it's a bit out of line, but its certainly not out of the question. About 80-90% of the time I replaced pads/rotors on semi-floating rear brakes at least the lower slide is seized. Most people don't take the time to properly inspect, clean, lubricate, or replace those. If the seals are cracked or not properly seated the slides will seize very quickly. Especially in areas with salt or snow getting packed into wheel wells.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Canada, Big Smoke, Down by the River
Had rear right noise wheel had the bearing replaced in summer. Shop told me i pads needs replacing but i didn't have them do it regrettably. Thought i have them do the wheel bearing and i will later replace the brakes myself as they loosen the wheel spacer nuts.
Brake job isn't difficult to do myself but i had trouble removing wheel spacer 15 mm or 17mm nut getting stripped. Deep socket strip the one wheel spacer nut and was to thick wall difficult to remove. Other shallow sockets were 3/8 but my Milwaukee impact only fits 1/2 sockets.
After few months i heard rear grinding noise never got the rear brake pads replaced. Since its cold had no choice to bring it into local mechanic. Thought they have better luck removing wheel spacer nuts and rear brakes pads rotors. Mechanic inspected told me i had seized right rear calliper. Goes to show me if i did the brakes earlier rear right calliper might not be seized.
Was quoted $550 CND for entire job. Included were
Calliper one rear Right not sure what brand only marking i see are ITAP silver in color
Link
Rear right brake hose.
Hose line
Did parts comparison Rock auto quote was $355 taxes duty included. Local parts store Parts Avatar quoted me $389 tax included and delivered or i could pickup.
Would need DOT 3 fluid 20 plus brake grease $11
Cost would be 386 or $410 if i did the job myself. Less the difficulty of not able to unbolt the wheel spacers finding shallow narrow socket if indeed i ever could manage it plus the brake bolts and rotor screw.
Overall i think paying $550 wasn't bad price all included having shop doing it which is $100/per hr going rate in CDN funds.
Any work on brakes will be at least $100 in labour and half hour for the calliper hose replacement and bleeding top off.
Paying anywhere in the region of $164 - $140 is reasonable or bargain with many corporate garage mechanics least of all a dealership which probably be $225/per .
Brake job isn't difficult to do myself but i had trouble removing wheel spacer 15 mm or 17mm nut getting stripped. Deep socket strip the one wheel spacer nut and was to thick wall difficult to remove. Other shallow sockets were 3/8 but my Milwaukee impact only fits 1/2 sockets.
After few months i heard rear grinding noise never got the rear brake pads replaced. Since its cold had no choice to bring it into local mechanic. Thought they have better luck removing wheel spacer nuts and rear brakes pads rotors. Mechanic inspected told me i had seized right rear calliper. Goes to show me if i did the brakes earlier rear right calliper might not be seized.
Was quoted $550 CND for entire job. Included were
AKEBONO rear brake pads
AKEBONOPair Rear Disc Brake Rotor by POWER STOP - JBR987EVC
$55 eachCalliper one rear Right not sure what brand only marking i see are ITAP silver in color
Link
Rear right brake hose.
Hose line
Did parts comparison Rock auto quote was $355 taxes duty included. Local parts store Parts Avatar quoted me $389 tax included and delivered or i could pickup.
Would need DOT 3 fluid 20 plus brake grease $11
Cost would be 386 or $410 if i did the job myself. Less the difficulty of not able to unbolt the wheel spacers finding shallow narrow socket if indeed i ever could manage it plus the brake bolts and rotor screw.
Overall i think paying $550 wasn't bad price all included having shop doing it which is $100/per hr going rate in CDN funds.
Any work on brakes will be at least $100 in labour and half hour for the calliper hose replacement and bleeding top off.
Paying anywhere in the region of $164 - $140 is reasonable or bargain with many corporate garage mechanics least of all a dealership which probably be $225/per .
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 172
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This has happened a few times on my 2005 Acura TL 6MT. Always on the rear calipers. Even after a car wash, if I don't drive a few miles and make sure they dry out, they temporarily lock and when I drive I hear them release. Doesn't seem to happen after driving in the rain. Kind of annoying b/c calipers aren't cheap.
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