Quick way of changing broken wheel studs.
09-07-2010, 12:47 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Quick way of changing broken wheel studs.
I figured an easy way of changing wheel studs if necessary (i had 2 snapped, one on each side). I'm not sure, but maybe someone else has done this. I'll share anyway.
This will not work for studs longer than OEM, so if you try installing longer studs because you might wanna space your wheels, it will not work
I took plenty of pictures while in process but somehow my camera decided to corrupt the memory stick and I lost all pics. I happened to take a few pics with my phone. So I apologize for the lack of detailed pictures.
Normally, you would have to take off the axle nut in order to do something as simple as changing a wheel stud in our front wheels. That sometimes can be a pain, since you will need an axle bolt socket and thats if you can break it free without the help of a heavy airgun. The hub/spindle has to come off in order to install new studs without damaging the threads since the diameter of the knuckle where the hub mounts, is bigger than the bolt pattern on the hub, which means you'd have to try and install the studs at an angle, and that would run the threads, if you try and force them in.
Tools: Flat screwdriver, hammer, grinder, (channel lock to hold the stud while grinding) 19 mm socket and ratchet for Brembo guys. I think it's 14 mm for standard calipers.
You don't have to take off the pads. You can just carefully pry the pads slightly off the rotor and pull the caliper out as a whole.
For those of you who still have the rotors held in place by the factory line philips screws, those need to also be removed.
After you have taken off the caliper and the rotor, you'll notice the back rotor cover is notched where the caliper sits, so the whole cover doesn't have to come off. You can just spin the hub and line up the stud that needs to change, right by the cover opening.
It's ok to bend that part of the cover out of the way and flat it out, this way you gain a few millimeters of angle. 3rd picture below (you will be able to straighten the cover back after you're done)
You will need to grind down the back lip of the new stud all the way to the diameter of the stud itself, but only on one side though. (assuming you have access to a grinder)
The reason for this (which you probably know by now) is to get rid of some of the angle created by the spindle, so you're able to install it without damaging threads.
Time to install the new stud. After you've bent the cover out of the way and, rest the ground part of the stud against the spindle and push it in with slight bangs. Use a hammer. While you do this, it will seem as if you'll damage the threads, but you won't. I did it, and it worked fine. You might see a very very slight few marks on some threads after the stud is installed, but nothing to worry about. After you've pushed the stud enough to where it's no longer resting against the spindle, just hammer it all the way in place flat against the hub.
And finally, here's the new stud, installed and pain free
If you feel that this method will weaken the wheel stud since it's being ground down, please don't do it!
I say this because I expect someone to question it, and this is my answer ahead of time.
This will not work for studs longer than OEM, so if you try installing longer studs because you might wanna space your wheels, it will not work
I took plenty of pictures while in process but somehow my camera decided to corrupt the memory stick and I lost all pics. I happened to take a few pics with my phone. So I apologize for the lack of detailed pictures.
Normally, you would have to take off the axle nut in order to do something as simple as changing a wheel stud in our front wheels. That sometimes can be a pain, since you will need an axle bolt socket and thats if you can break it free without the help of a heavy airgun. The hub/spindle has to come off in order to install new studs without damaging the threads since the diameter of the knuckle where the hub mounts, is bigger than the bolt pattern on the hub, which means you'd have to try and install the studs at an angle, and that would run the threads, if you try and force them in.
Tools: Flat screwdriver, hammer, grinder, (channel lock to hold the stud while grinding) 19 mm socket and ratchet for Brembo guys. I think it's 14 mm for standard calipers.
You don't have to take off the pads. You can just carefully pry the pads slightly off the rotor and pull the caliper out as a whole.
For those of you who still have the rotors held in place by the factory line philips screws, those need to also be removed.
After you have taken off the caliper and the rotor, you'll notice the back rotor cover is notched where the caliper sits, so the whole cover doesn't have to come off. You can just spin the hub and line up the stud that needs to change, right by the cover opening.
It's ok to bend that part of the cover out of the way and flat it out, this way you gain a few millimeters of angle. 3rd picture below (you will be able to straighten the cover back after you're done)
You will need to grind down the back lip of the new stud all the way to the diameter of the stud itself, but only on one side though. (assuming you have access to a grinder)
The reason for this (which you probably know by now) is to get rid of some of the angle created by the spindle, so you're able to install it without damaging threads.
Time to install the new stud. After you've bent the cover out of the way and, rest the ground part of the stud against the spindle and push it in with slight bangs. Use a hammer. While you do this, it will seem as if you'll damage the threads, but you won't. I did it, and it worked fine. You might see a very very slight few marks on some threads after the stud is installed, but nothing to worry about. After you've pushed the stud enough to where it's no longer resting against the spindle, just hammer it all the way in place flat against the hub.
And finally, here's the new stud, installed and pain free
If you feel that this method will weaken the wheel stud since it's being ground down, please don't do it!
I say this because I expect someone to question it, and this is my answer ahead of time.
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civicdrivr (01-13-2012)
09-07-2010, 09:03 AM
#3
Safety Car
I recommend removing the entire splash shield.
I removed these shields for appearance reasons. Also with the splash shields removed, I think that the rotors stay cooler with the increased exposure to cooling air. I have had my splash shields removed for the past 3 years and 48,000 miles without a single issue. In that time, I have been thru many, many downpours and flooding streets. Never had a problem with dampness.
In the pic below - if you cut that section out, the whole splash shield can be removed without needing to remove the spindle.
Below is the "BEFORE" pic
Below is the "AFTER" pic
The pic below is the "BEFORE" pic.
The pic below is the "AFTER" pic.
I removed these shields for appearance reasons. Also with the splash shields removed, I think that the rotors stay cooler with the increased exposure to cooling air. I have had my splash shields removed for the past 3 years and 48,000 miles without a single issue. In that time, I have been thru many, many downpours and flooding streets. Never had a problem with dampness.
In the pic below - if you cut that section out, the whole splash shield can be removed without needing to remove the spindle.
Below is the "BEFORE" pic
Below is the "AFTER" pic
The pic below is the "BEFORE" pic.
The pic below is the "AFTER" pic.
09-07-2010, 12:51 PM
#5
Safety Car
Many of those pics are from 3 years and 48,000 miles ago. The pic (second from bottom) of backside of the front rotor is from one year ago.
My TL was purchased new on January 2006. The big difference in keeping it looking good is that Houston never uses salt on the roadways for de-icing. Plus, most of my commuting is on elevated freeways, which stays very clean because there is no muddy runoff from surrounding grasslands.
I think my car has received more than its usual share of grime in the past 12 months however. The undercarriage is showing more of it's age recently.
My TL was purchased new on January 2006. The big difference in keeping it looking good is that Houston never uses salt on the roadways for de-icing. Plus, most of my commuting is on elevated freeways, which stays very clean because there is no muddy runoff from surrounding grasslands.
I think my car has received more than its usual share of grime in the past 12 months however. The undercarriage is showing more of it's age recently.
12-10-2010, 01:27 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
No, not really. Anything longer than a stock length stud will experience thread damage as you try to slide in through the allowed angle from the hub.
Have you looked into spacers that come with studs on them? Pretty much you bolt the spacer to your studs, and mount the wheel to the spacer studs.
I have seen a few of them, and they were pretty legit.
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