0utl

So last week someone pulled out in front of me and I had to make a quick stop to avoid a close collision and thankfully those Brembos stopped me quick enough with only inches to spare But since then i have noticed that when i come to a stop the car pulsates (hard to explain) instead of just being smooth. Another thought why they may be warped is because the beautiful tune of my squealing pads is not a single note but changes with the pulsation of the car. I don't feel any pedal feedback tho. What do you guys think? Appreciate your input!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

warped rotors are usually, Usually pad deposits left on the rotor.

since you did do an emergency stop, maybe some of the meat from the pad got melted/embedded on to the rotor.


just for giggles; try another panic stop to completely wipe away the deposits

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Boy, am I proud of you.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I learned from the best ^

also, after a panic stop try not to hold the brake pedal for long periods of time.
if one has ever touched a rotor after a high speed stop, you'll know why.


Let it cool a bit before you apply steady brakes; traffic permitting

YeuEmMaiMai

if the TL brakes were larger this would not really be an issue IMHO, but yes one hard stop can smoke the rotors

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the TL's brakes, especially the Brembos, which the OP has are 12 inches.
that's large enough to prevent brake fade.

<-------I also have brembo brakes and they do not fade, good sir.

The OP applied the brakes in an emergency situation; which heated up the rotors significantly.
I'm assuming a red light was ahead and OP applied steady pressure to brake pedal, as we all do at a red light.

the pads being applied in one spot and the heat from the rotor made it possible for pad material to transfer on to the rotor.


so, you see, good sir...
it's not the rotor; its the pads.

0utl

So you mostly think its just pad material on the rotor? Ill do some hard braking today and see if the pulsation im getting when coming to a stop goes away. If it doesn't im hoping r1 concepts will honor their warranty because they shouldn't warp that easily. I appreciate your responses and let you know if it works!

erg69

Justnspace is right on, as usual . It doesn't take much material left on the super hot rotor to cause vibration. The reason it doesn't go away, right away, is it is equally as hard to get the material off as it was to get it on. Another round of hard breaking should take care of your problem. But worst case... just go get your rotors turned.

AMG149

pardon my ignorance (i am a new owner and new to the forums) do all of the 3G TL's come with brembo brakes?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

nope.

04-06 6MT's received Brembo brakes.
04-06 Base model TL's had regular brakes.

07-08 TL-S received Brembo Brakes (6mt and auto)
07-08 TL base TL had regular brakes.

erg69

A quick way to tell if a TL has Bembos is the front calipers look like this.

0utl

Can you turn slotted rotors? I did a few hard stops and its still there. Ill try a few more times.

erg69

Correction... worst case... you need to buy new rotors as slotted or drilled can not be turned.

0utl

Yes and it is the case. I have tried the quick stops and its not working. I called r1 and they say i have to get a mechanic report to get the warranty. So i go to belle tire and they said its $80 to check because they have to take them off and blah blah. So each rotor was $80 so i hate to go through the trouble and the $ to get rotors that may crap out if i ever have to stop quick again. So you guys think i should ditch them and go OEM?

YeuEmMaiMai

man that's BS and you know it, brakes should not warp like that under 1 panic stop. If the TL had good brakes, you should be able to make multiple panic stops without toasting the rotors but you can't because they are not as good as they should be for that type of car. add to that the fact that it's even worse with the single piston caliper that applies maximum force to the center of the pad and that is a BIG factor in why those brakes get toasted so easily on those cars. the car really should have 13" rotors with minimum of dual piston calipers up front. the TL is not a lightweight and the facts that you can smoke your brakes after 1 panic stop = not properly sized and they need to be slightly larger to handle the weight transfer when stopping

for comparison a corvette that weights 300lbs LESS has larger brakes with multi piston calopers.... 12.8" for 2008

heck even a Subaru Legacy has better brakes with dual piston calipers standard for at least the last 15 years.... and you don't hear of people smoking them... 11.5" rotors stopping 3300lbs on average

your calipers need to apply even clamping force over the pad, not concentrated in the center

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

I dont know what kind of driving you guys are doing thats smoking theses brakes. I've done a couple very spirited canyon runs with the TL before and I made my rear pads smoke, but the fronts were stopping perfectly fine. I know 12.2" isnt considered large by today's standard but I dont think they are bad by any means.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

To get the deposits off, the same pad won't do the trick as usually you'll need a pad that is more durable, harder, and it's not the rotor to cause the fade, it's consistency of the pad material. Of course, using a pad made strictly for racing applications on a street driven vehicle certainly won't work as stopping distance and pedal pressure when cold is greatly enhanced, so a combination pad is best.

The company that supplies the rotor won't replace the rotor as it hasn't warped and no manufacturing defects are present. The pad material that has become part of the rotor is just as stated in previous posts above, pad material deposit on rotor that has created a rotor surface that has runout, consequently vibration when brakes applied.

Oh, and by the way, slotted and or slotted/drilled rotors can be turned, but like any rotor, the cut has got to be minimal to stay within the minimum specification.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

not sure what you're not understanding.


its not the rotors. lol

nfnsquared

OP, take the rotors off and sand them yourself.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they can be sanded or ground down, but one would need a micrometer and measure every inch to see where the buildup might be, then when the higher reading is registered, one would need to determine whether inside or outside build up and how much on each side. When the material becomes part of the rotor, it certainly isn't easily removed by a simple swipe of sandpaper or emery cloth, but if the rotor is to be replaced, noting to lose.

erg69

Anything is possible yes.....Find me a shop that will turn them and the cost.

Will Y.

No telephones or Yelp in Kansas anymore?


Try the Regions subforum for shops/garages close to you.

YeuEmMaiMai

I know you seem to know a lot about cars but in this case you are totally wrong. The brakes on the TL are undersized for the task at hand. Add to that massive amount of heat you asking them to dissipate when dragging 3500+ lbs car to stop in a hurry where upwards of 90% of the weight is transferred to the front wheels.... the car needs larger brakes to prevent the warping of rotors as LARGER ONES CAN DISSIPATE MORE HEAT

So I gotta ask you, what part of undersized brakes are you having issues with?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

^Been buzy but one item you need to address is the swept area, not the rotor diameter.
Some rotors are larger, but the hub is also larger so the swept area may be smaller. Also the larger the disc, although minimal, there is more unsprung weight.
Didn't do a great amount of research, but just an example, the '07 TLS has a 12.2/11.1 disc compared to the '07 G35 13.0/13.0, but the TLS has larger swept area 480 sq in/477 sq in and actually a shorter stopping distance.

Poor quality pads will leave residue on the rotor regardless of the diameter.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

at youemmemmmai


if there are multiple people against you; maybe its you.

erg69

Call your Acura dealer and ask them if they will turn your drilled rotors. Odds are, they will say no. The point I'm trying to make is it takes a special lathe and a guy that knows what he's doing...most shops don't have one or both of those. The ones that do have both charge almost as much as a new set of rotors.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Should be same lathe, but the cut must be minimal at each pass, no deep cuts as some would do with a regular rotor.