Question about 3rd gear syncro problem
Question about 3rd gear syncro problem
If your 3G 6MT TL has the 3rd gear synchro problem but you're aware of it when driving and make sure that it doesn't grind, will it still eventually lead to a further problems that require servicing?
Yes, there is a very strong possibility of this occurring. To avoid grinding you can double clutch (when downshifting, you should always do this anyway), or be very cognizant of engine and wheel speed when upshifting. However, there is still the issue that people who have experienced this problem (I never have with my '04) of popping out of gear of increased difficulty in completing the shift.
First thing that a lot of members have done is to do a drain and fill with General Motors Synchromesh Friction Modified fluid (part #12377916) and for most, this has been the genie in the bottle of a fix.
First thing that a lot of members have done is to do a drain and fill with General Motors Synchromesh Friction Modified fluid (part #12377916) and for most, this has been the genie in the bottle of a fix.
I drove my 6MT for a couple of weeks bearing with the 3rd gear problem. After a few weeks I kind of knew when the gear was either going to 1) grind or 2) pop out. Most of the time you can kind of tell because when you shift to third, it doesn't go in all the way and it doesn't feel right. Whenever that happened, I just go in neutral and try again. Of course it's still a pain in the ass and I recommend just changing the fluid with GMSFM. I didn't have the tools so I called around some local shops, got it changed for $20 when I brought in the fluid myself. Absolutely worth it.
Yes, there is a very strong possibility of this occurring. To avoid grinding you can double clutch (when downshifting, you should always do this anyway), or be very cognizant of engine and wheel speed when upshifting. However, there is still the issue that people who have experienced this problem (I never have with my '04) of popping out of gear of increased difficulty in completing the shift.
First thing that a lot of members have done is to do a drain and fill with General Motors Synchromesh Friction Modified fluid (part #12377916) and for most, this has been the genie in the bottle of a fix.
First thing that a lot of members have done is to do a drain and fill with General Motors Synchromesh Friction Modified fluid (part #12377916) and for most, this has been the genie in the bottle of a fix.
So if my vehicle is still under warranty, is there really any reason that I shouldn't get this problem fixed?
Ya i've read about the GM synchromesh fluid. I find that if I put it into 3rd gear at a slightly different angle then it never grinds. I've never experienced it popping out of gear on it's own.
So if my vehicle is still under warranty, is there really any reason that I shouldn't get this problem fixed?
So if my vehicle is still under warranty, is there really any reason that I shouldn't get this problem fixed?
Just use the GM fluid. As far as I know, it has a 100% success rate, including myself.
i just noticed that if im shifting really fast i can let off the clutch when i put it in third and it wont really shift until i left off the gas, but if i shift normally, its fine. did everyone else experience this. i already have gm synchromesh in my tranny
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What if you are very diligent while switching gears into/out of 3rd and can operate it in a a way where it doesn't grind at all?
May I suggest that you peruse the 3G Garage for info and tips when doing your drain and fill. I wrote up one a while back which you may find useful. Here's a quick dip into what you will need and such.
Make sure you car is level when you do this. You do not have to remove the battery or the air filter housing, though you might consider moving the upper air filter housing section a little out of the way (maybe, maybe not). I do not suggest removing the check (sight) plug since several people have wrenched the head off when putting it back in (it only is supposed to be torqued to 8.7 ft/lbs). If this is the first time the fluid has been changed, expect the fill plug to be hard to remove. This is why you may need a breaker bar.
If you use ramps, unless your car is in a slight downward slope, you will probably need to jack up the rear a little with at the center point with a floor jack to get the transaxle case level (use a carpenter's level). This is kind of important because want to refill with 2.3 quarts.
Pour the new fluid slowly into the funnel so you don't get overfill and a mess in the event you fill too much. Inspect the drained fluid for anything unusual, like pieces of metal or such. The tiny gold colored metal flecks are normal and are sheddings from your synchronizers.
Torque the drain plug to 29 ft/lbs and the fill plug to 33 ft/lbs. This is the easiest and least messy manual drain and fill I have ever done on any manual car. If you have questions, please ask.
- A quality torque wrench.
- Ramps or jack stands.
- Quality ratchet set with a breaker bar attachment.
- Drain and fill plug aluminum washers (get from dealer parts department).
- Long neck funnel.
Make sure you car is level when you do this. You do not have to remove the battery or the air filter housing, though you might consider moving the upper air filter housing section a little out of the way (maybe, maybe not). I do not suggest removing the check (sight) plug since several people have wrenched the head off when putting it back in (it only is supposed to be torqued to 8.7 ft/lbs). If this is the first time the fluid has been changed, expect the fill plug to be hard to remove. This is why you may need a breaker bar.
If you use ramps, unless your car is in a slight downward slope, you will probably need to jack up the rear a little with at the center point with a floor jack to get the transaxle case level (use a carpenter's level). This is kind of important because want to refill with 2.3 quarts.
Pour the new fluid slowly into the funnel so you don't get overfill and a mess in the event you fill too much. Inspect the drained fluid for anything unusual, like pieces of metal or such. The tiny gold colored metal flecks are normal and are sheddings from your synchronizers.
Torque the drain plug to 29 ft/lbs and the fill plug to 33 ft/lbs. This is the easiest and least messy manual drain and fill I have ever done on any manual car. If you have questions, please ask.
Thanks for the heads up. I wanted to do it but i dont have the space to do it now. I called a couple lube places and they wont do it. They also charge 99$ to do a transmission flush. So i called acura. They said it'll be 190$ with the oem fluid. I told them i have the fluid that i wanted to use plus mine was manual. They called me back and quoted me 60$. So i guess thats not too bad. Plus i dont have to worry about some joe-shmo trying to figure out my TL. So 100$ for the GM fluid and change at the dealer. Not bad. When i went to Chevy yesterday to buy the GM fluid, the parts guy asked me after he saw which fluid i was buying if i owned a Honda. HAHAHA. That was funny. I guess we all use this for our manual trannys. Thanks again. I'll let everyone know about the after affects. I'm sure it'll be just fine.
Problem solved. Have been driving all after and didnt have any issues going into 3rd now. It didnt fall out of gear either. Acura says there is a fix for the problem but its by replacing the whole gear. I'll just stick to the GM fluid.
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So your Acura dealer put the GM fluid in your transmission???
Yea they did. They told me that they have the fluid but i told them that the 3rd gear issue should of been a recall. The only fix is to change out the gear. I told them that everyone with a manual TL with the problem are using the GM fluid. They had nooo problem do that for me. The update over the past two days... My 3rd gear feels perfect. No problems at all anymore.
Well my TL popped out of 3rd gear about 4 times since I purchased it in last November. It happened twice in a week and it hasn't happened for a while since. I partially blame it on myself because this is my first manual car owned. So I am waiting to see if it would happen again.
In case anyone is concerned about long term use of GM Synchromesh...I've had it in my '05 TL for almost five years with NO PROBLEMS at all. The biggest problem was finding the GM Synchromesh in the first place
May I suggest that you peruse the 3G Garage for info and tips when doing your drain and fill. I wrote up one a while back which you may find useful. Here's a quick dip into what you will need and such.
Make sure you car is level when you do this. You do not have to remove the battery or the air filter housing, though you might consider moving the upper air filter housing section a little out of the way (maybe, maybe not). I do not suggest removing the check (sight) plug since several people have wrenched the head off when putting it back in (it only is supposed to be torqued to 8.7 ft/lbs). If this is the first time the fluid has been changed, expect the fill plug to be hard to remove. This is why you may need a breaker bar.
If you use ramps, unless your car is in a slight downward slope, you will probably need to jack up the rear a little with at the center point with a floor jack to get the transaxle case level (use a carpenter's level). This is kind of important because want to refill with 2.3 quarts.
Pour the new fluid slowly into the funnel so you don't get overfill and a mess in the event you fill too much. Inspect the drained fluid for anything unusual, like pieces of metal or such. The tiny gold colored metal flecks are normal and are sheddings from your synchronizers.
Torque the drain plug to 29 ft/lbs and the fill plug to 33 ft/lbs. This is the easiest and least messy manual drain and fill I have ever done on any manual car. If you have questions, please ask.
- A quality torque wrench.
- Ramps or jack stands.
- Quality ratchet set with a breaker bar attachment.
- Drain and fill plug aluminum washers (get from dealer parts department).
- Long neck funnel.
Make sure you car is level when you do this. You do not have to remove the battery or the air filter housing, though you might consider moving the upper air filter housing section a little out of the way (maybe, maybe not). I do not suggest removing the check (sight) plug since several people have wrenched the head off when putting it back in (it only is supposed to be torqued to 8.7 ft/lbs). If this is the first time the fluid has been changed, expect the fill plug to be hard to remove. This is why you may need a breaker bar.
If you use ramps, unless your car is in a slight downward slope, you will probably need to jack up the rear a little with at the center point with a floor jack to get the transaxle case level (use a carpenter's level). This is kind of important because want to refill with 2.3 quarts.
Pour the new fluid slowly into the funnel so you don't get overfill and a mess in the event you fill too much. Inspect the drained fluid for anything unusual, like pieces of metal or such. The tiny gold colored metal flecks are normal and are sheddings from your synchronizers.
Torque the drain plug to 29 ft/lbs and the fill plug to 33 ft/lbs. This is the easiest and least messy manual drain and fill I have ever done on any manual car. If you have questions, please ask.
I recentely did all of the above when swapping MT fluid to GM synchromesh FM. BUT, I did not replace the aluminum washers as I thought only the oil drain plug washer was the only washer that should be replaced. Since I re-used both the drain and fill plug washer, will I encounter any problems?
Interesting to know. Did you buy your TL new? And how clicks on your car until the problem appeared?
After a year with my ACURA TL 6speed,
I had to take it to the shop to have my 3rd gear syncro replaced
I been without my TL for a week and day now
I love this Loaner they gave me but its killing my pockets with the amount of gas i have to put in it and i drive over 150 miles a day to work and back.......
I had to take it to the shop to have my 3rd gear syncro replaced
I been without my TL for a week and day now
I love this Loaner they gave me but its killing my pockets with the amount of gas i have to put in it and i drive over 150 miles a day to work and back.......
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