Hi guys -
I have a 2008 TL Base I bought November of 2008 (one owner). It's getting up there in age and mileage is 115,500. Recently my battery died (I thought it was the starter or something worse); the battery was almost exactly two years old. Acura replaced it free of charge under warranty. So, thinking it was the starter I found out that you cannot even get a starter for that vehicle right now. I realize the current circumstances with supply/demand for parts (and cars in general). What I am asking for opinions on is if you were in my situation where I have done all the recommended service schedule at the dealer up until now... And, now you still want to drive the vehicle another ten years (100,000 miles or more). Which parts would it be prudent to Preemptively replace? For instance, I am wondering if I should replace the alternator, maybe the starter, maybe the axles??? I want to try to get a bit ahead of what would most likely not live through the next 50,000 miles.

To add some context I am getting to be a middle aged female and am not likely to want to learn auto mechanics at this state in life (not a DIY; but, I am considering replacing my hood struts myself and I am purchasing a DA polisher to detail the car (so, learning the fine art of car detailing to save money). I have been using the dealer because I have a lifetime oil change there and they also swap out my tires free of charge because I have two sets of wheels. So, I get regular inspections mostly "free." But, I am sure I paid through the nose keeping it genuine Acura parts and dealer maintenance up until this point where it may not make sense to continue. My service tech knows I have been shopping services around and I have been getting better deals and perks and when we found out about the starter he said they would do a loaner until the part came in (the loaner program adds a lot of value in my particular situation).

I've done the timing belt previously (at 7 years) and I am coming up on 14 years so I will be doing that again. I replace the battery every 3 years no matter what and I make all repairs and services recommended. Some of the other items that have been replaced over the years Right Engine Mount, Power Steering Pump, Door Actuators (both on Right Side and Rear on Driver Side).

 

Here's a new OEM starter for your TL:
31200-RDA-A01 Genuine Acura Part (acurapartswarehouse.com)

New Alternator:
31100-RJA-A02 Genuine Acura Alternator Assembly (Csd69) (Denso) (acurapartswarehouse.com)

New Axles:
These show 'Currently Unavailable: #4 & 5:
Driveshaft - Half Shaft - 2008 Acura TL 4 Door BASE KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)

This will give you an idea of cost before labor, though I suspect the dealer you frequent will add a markup % to those parts as well.

 

Thanks zeta!

Yeah, the dealer must procure the part and their service department needs to install it in order to get the warranty. So, I cannot bring my own parts to them. I am asking about whether people would consider doing this and more Preemptively and what people have needed for this 3G model... I am hoping an enthusiast who has maybe rescued one or two of these might do to prolong the life. Or, if it is really smarter to just sit and wait to see what goes wrong with it and always be in a total reactionary mode .

 

zeta,
This "half shaft" you linked here. Forgive my ignorance. Is this the same as replacing both axles (wait, are there 2?)

The dealer is nickeling and diming me by replacing an Axle Seal (for $260 a couple years ago). I am not getting advise, just this onesey twosey item at a time. I obviously need to ask better questions (which is another reason I am here asking)...

 

Technically there are 3 separate axles in our cars. Two outer ones that go all the way to the hub (wheel) - those that have those rubber accordion boots on them (#4 and #5). Third (#18) doesn't really wear out, well except for the support bearing, but that goes bad pretty rarely.

If you live in place that sees snow/salt you might want to replace two outer axles (#4 and #5) since they have rubber dampeners on them and are known to rust under those dampeners and snap in half. I live in IL and replaced both axles as an insurance to not get stranded some day.

If you want to read more about broken axles this might be a good thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...y-fail-994608/

Oem are expensive. Couple people here, including me, got APWI axles from rockauto for ~$60? each. Something like that. But since dealer doesn't want to use your parts you're stuck with OEM.

In terms of pricing, dealer will charge you retail price for the parts. So that one axle is not $250 but $360 or more. I don't know how much they charge for labor per hour, you would need to take a look at the invoice, but alldata (service manual) gives like ~1h to replace each axle.

Overall, sticking with OEM parts is a good idea. I've been burned on my own cars with aftermarket parts. Especially nowadays where even "used to be good" aftermarket parts seem to fail quite often.

If you have insurance with free towing and dealer/insurance will lend you a car then don't replace anything until it breaks or starts making noise.

 

If you want to stay OEM (original equipment manufacturer) and have the dealer install those parts + warranty, there will be a premium to pay, as you already know.

With that said, if you want to 'explore' getting away from the 'nickle & dime' that you are experiencing, try and google your local area for 'Acura / Honda speciatly shops'. You still have to 'beware'; however, these places tend to be established by former Acura / Honda Master Techs that got tired of the dealership 'flat rate' game and went into business for themselves. They will, hopefully, deliver the same level of repair you are used to at the dealership for less $$. Some of these places also will allow you to bring your own parts; however, you'll have to ask how they will handle 'warranty' terms.

To answer your question above about the 'half-shaft'.
The half shaft assembly is separate from the two axles. It connects into the passenger side transmission case and held onto the engine block via that large bracket between #26 & 28# The half-shaft assembly consists of every part you see, in the parts diagram link above, inside the 'line enclosure' of part #18; Acura 44500-SJA-000 Half Shaft Assembly for $339.62.

If they replaced an 'axle seal' on the passenger side, it was probably #28 on the #2 torque converter case linked below.

AT Torque Converter Case - 2008 Acura TL 4 Door BASE KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)

For descriptive clarification & diagram interpretation, if you look at the lower left corner of the diagram you'll see a "<----FR.,'
That symbol deliniation is pointing to the front of the car / engine bay.
In turn, that places the seal side of #2 torque converter case on the passenger side (right side) of the car; therefore, #28 91206-P0Z-005 Automatic Transmission Oil Seal $9.31 is probably the seal you mention. Roughly speaking, if the seal was $10 you paid about $250 in labor to have it replaced.

Lastly, the 'currently unavailable' complete right and left side 'axle assemblies' are part #'s 4 & 5 respectively on the provided link in post #2 above.

 

Besides the Axles is there anything else you would personally get on top of before it breaks??? Thank you so much for your response . I love this car to death and I want to drive it as long as possible. I am planning because I am close to replacing the Timing Belt and last time I had the Timing Belt done I also had the oil seals changed. So, this additional stuff (the Axles, etc.) I am planning for about 24 months down the road. I am starting to worry about being able to get parts (previously the dealership had told me that was silly because I would need to have a 90's Acura to start worrying about that). But, you know, it's not their car so they aren't going to care as much as I do.

 

Thank you for your response. I recently had a car guy (subcontractor to the dealer) peer at my engine and tell me the next thing that is going to go wrong is the catalytic converter followed by the transmission at 150,000 (which strikes fear in me because the car before this was a 2000 Honda Accord and I had 4 transmissions by the time I traded it for this car at 105,000).

The reality is that I am still working and I sometimes need to take the car out of town or around the commuting area for work. The dealer is so convenient with the loaner cars. When I was in CA I had a shop my boss recommended (as her daughter dated the guy that owned it) and it was a specialty shop and the guy had some older cars he used as loaners (and that worked for me at that time).

They charged me another $500 to do the Oil Seals with the Timing Belt. They didn't want to do it; but, once it was done they told me I was right to do it because they were going bad and I had maybe six months on them (so, it saved me a few hundred to a thousand dollars doing it while they were already doing the Timing belt. A year later my front Engine Mount had to be replaced. Later I read that you should change the Right Engine Mount when you do the Timing Belt anyways (and it should be cheap -- I'd have to look at my records, but, it was expensive).

 

No kidding? I always wanted to have powers like that...

Actually, Bugs, I wonder why you're so worried about your '08--it should go twice the distance, easily. But you must care for the transmission--Change the fluid and always pay attention to how it shifts. Somewhere between now and 150K you may need to have the trans pressure switches replaced, so budget for that. Since I do my own maintenance it gets done at the first sign of trans slippage. The 04-06 automatics seemed to go around 150K cuz maintenance, but the 07-08 trans is SUV-strength. Also, I just did the cats/sensors on my 240K KPB and that was only because I wanted to. My ASM with 235K has the OEM cats, so 150K is just a wild-ass guess. Having owned several many of the 2G-3G TLs, I can tell you they all had something different go out at way different times/miles.

Also, take care of the leather seats. I do mine twice a year. Both my TLS' have 230K and the seats are not ripped. Clean the interior regularly. It will hold value when you part with it.

I always advised peeps to budget $100/mo. - $1500/year (maybe more now with global inflation) and just pay attention to what your car is doing and fix stuff when it starts to go.
Techs always appreciate when you take care of the car he/she has to work on and can understand what they're doing. Mrs2TLs has had a good rep w/Dealer since she had the PS hose recall done and told them to inspect the upper RH ball joint because she notices any little thing that goes awry. Her 08 MRP Base w/120K still runs like new and she's keeping it forever. She hasn't put a dime into it in years, but she gets free maintenance, ya know...

If your TL is up-to-snuff, you should get 20K and a couple years on it with nothing but oil changes.

 

Thank you for your response Pair of TLs. I bought new and I am still at the dealer with 115k. I feel I have a good relationship with my Service Tech (same guy for 10+ years). You are right about the $1,500 a year. I did a calculation of what I spent including all service, brakes, tires, and even body work a couple years ago and it worked out to averaging $1,400 a year (some years are $3,000 and some years are closer to $0). It's a great deal as it is so much cheaper than a new car, I love the car and it drives like the day I bought it.

I am unconcerned with the regular maintenance schedule. I submit to it fully. What I would like to get ahead of is refreshing parts that are known to wear in order to smooth out my experience of the next 115k. I get annoyed getting surprised continually and I'd rather fix it up so I could drive it at least 7 years without being bothered with one thing after the next (except for the standard maintenance schedule).

I hear you regarding every car is different. I had a Honda Accord where I was driving through a steep hilly location and the steering wheel froze up on me while I was driving and I was very lucky I wasn't in an accident. I don't remember what caused that. I had stuck in my mind that it was the starter (but, I'm not sure that makes sense). I found a thread that described that situation in a 3G TL and they were saying it was the Alternator. To me it is a situation I would prefer to avoid as I do live in a location where the road drops on one side to a 500+ foot cliff (I live in a more rugged environment)

I thought I had been taking care of the leather. I noticed a small tear on the driver back -- it is obviously wear. The overall condition of the leather is excellent.

 

You're dreaming, Bugs.

Next time you're at the dealer, ask the tech what his experience has been with the 07-08 TL part failures.
Then, replace every one of those parts. Bet you $1 you will not go another 115K without a "surprise."

 

I heard the Bluetooth module was discontinued, so...


Sorry, just had to poke a jab at that.


@Pair of TLs has a point. +1

 

So, you're bursting my bubble? So, there's nothing I can do? I am just subject to every whim of my car. My car had a bad week and I parked it. Nothing too much goes wrong if it is just sitting in my garage.

 

Sorry, Bugs, but many a bubble needs bursting.

Are you punishing your car for having a bad week??
I'm not going to even tell you what can go wrong with your car just sitting in the garage, then.

DO the maintenance, DO the inspections, DO the needed repairs, and your TL will love you long, long time.

 

No, I am not punishing my car for having a bad week. On the contrary he's getting a spa treatment (forcing myself to learn detailing on a professional level). It's icy and snowy outside and he is slowly being worked over in the relative comfort of the garage (while I figure out where to go next).

I have done every maintenance or repair item ever recommended. I get the feeling my lack of knowledge hurts me. They tell me to replace a seal; but, I should have replaced both axles (pre-emptively). I am easy to snow. That's maybe the feeling I don't like so much. Obviously automotive is one of my weak areas. I just get my wallet out and the money makes the problem go away.

 

My service tech is a tightwad and I think he always gives me the lowest price solution without filling me in on all my options. I need to communicate better I suppose. I have never used the Bluetooth functionality in my car so it is likely still working.

 

Dealerships (aka - stealerships) love folks such as yourself. This is not a dig on you - it is what it is. You aren't automotive mechanically savy and are subject to whatever the dealer subjects you to. You go on faith with your Service Advisor, but you can still be taken advantage of. You could probably be spending less at the dealer but how would you know, right? If you have questions or concerns you can always post them here and folks are very good about responding and helping out.

The Bluetooth module is a common failure point on the 3G TL and although you have never used it - it still may fail. The module becomes a parasitic drain after the key is taken out of the ignition, doesn't shut down and presents itself as a dead or dying battery. As mentioned - it is common but doesn't mean that you will have this problem. I have an 08 TL-S and do use the functionality but to date have not had any issues. The good news - especially for you (who doesn't use it) is that you can simply disconnect the module and you should be good to go. Would I pre-emptively do this? That is the question.....

Overall these are good reliable cars, so I don't know that I would be too concerned, but I understand trying to avoid major issues. Follow the maintenance schedule as you have been and as mentioned be mindful of the transmission (fluid and pressure switches).
I had an 04 TL with a 6 Speed before my current 08 and had no repairs at all. My current 08 TL-S will be 14 years old in Jan and has 109K on the odometer (never had a big commute and it dropped off significantly with the Pandemic.) Again it's a 6 speed, so don't have to worry about pressure switches.
The only true "repairs" I have paid for are:

2 axles - CV joints were "snapping/clicking" during tight/hard turns. Did one, one year and the 2nd the following year as they complained
AC compressor - just stopped working
2 hood struts / lift supports - were no longer able to hold hood up.

Everything else for me has been wear/maintenance items. Fluids, belts, brakes, battery, filters, etc. and have never been stranded.
My $0.02

 

( EDIT: I typed this over the course of several hours while multi-tasking, and it echoes a lot of what NBP said. )

OK, Bugs, why would you think to replace both axles if the seal on one of them goes bad? Or even THAT axle because of a seal/boot failure?
Unless contaminants got through the broken boot and damaged the CV, cleaning, greasing and resealing is all you need. Cheap compared to new axles.
A torn seal on one side does not automatically mean both axles will fail in the near future. Axle problems are more common to manuals, because they get more stressed than automatics. Replacing them for no reason other than they MIGHT fail in the future is wasting your money. Guys on this forum generally do their own work and replace them both when one fails because of much higher mileage and "Since I'm doing one, it won't take much more to do 'em both," plus it's fun. You don't need axles.

The flip side to this discussion is, "All I need was an axle boot replaced and my service shop charged me to replace both axles!"

After 10 years of working on your TL, your tech is your best bet for PM.
He knows more about YOUR car than any of us here, by a long shot.
For example, your trans fluid runs through the radiator for cooling, and the lines connected at the radiator can rust and fail. Catastrophe.
Should you replace your radiator? I dunno. Is there rust that could cause failure? What does your tech say?
Odds are that eventually your radiator will leak, so should you replace it now to avoid having to face that day? What does your tech say?
If what he says sounds funky to you, you can always some here and get clear answers as well as wild-ass-guesses.

Now, about that HFL bluetooth--just because you never used it doesn't mean it still works.
It very well MIGHT work. But you would be wise to have it disconnected. It only take a few minutes.
When it DOES fail and it will, it will drain your battery in a few days of sitting in your garage.
If you drive your TL nearly every day, you may never even notice it. Until one day, your TL won't start. Or you get some weird electrical error codes.
So that's a cheap preemptive fix.

Don't be afraid to ask your tech questions--that's how you learn.
Be thankful your tech is keeping your wallet in mind. If he's taking good care of you and your TL, keep him--the next guy might not so much.

 

^^^^ I agree with Pair of TLs +1

 

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I do rely on Acura to keep my car running; but, I don't have enough knowledge to really ask the right questions either. So, I am not a good consumer in that respect.

It's funny you mention it because I have had my car parked in my garage for about a week and the new battery they just installed is dead. I went out to start the car just so it wouldn't die and it was already dead. I just ordered a NOCO jump starter (that will arrive Jan 3). So, it sounds like as a minimum I need to go to the dealer and have them disconnect the bluetooth.

I am so glad that you mentioned that I should look into the condition of the radiator. I had no idea there was a connection between the transmission and radiator. They just flushed the transmission and it sounds like I should have them flush the radiator out too.

I would like to get to communicate directly with the mechanic; but, it doesn't work that way. I have expressed that before and my tech paraded the mechanic out for me... So, I will have him do that again so I can ask the mechanic to inspect the radiator and give me a report of the condition. I am contemplating taking it somewhere else and maybe get an oil change and have someone go over the car and give me some recommendations (a second opinion).

I guess I also learned from this forum that our cars are set up with error codes (and that is essentially what my Acura dealer is doing is responding to the computer codes). I guess I am old school and not quite getting this new methodology. Plus, it is all a foreign language to me. It is something I have outsourced (starting with my Ex husband who was an aircraft mechanic and did All repairs and maintenance on our cars and then to my mechanics). A person can't know everything about everything and cars are just something that I have never delved into that much (so, I am an idiot with cars). With my car dying I need to learn some basic things (and some car specific things).

With the Axles I don't know; I don't get it and that's why I am asking. I also find it curious that nothing is ever done with the suspension system (I guess shock absorbers (springs, struts or whatever) last forever in these cars)?

 

A couple of things in response -
Battery - if the battery was recently replaced at the dealer, it could be that the battery had been sitting on a shelf for a period of time and wasn't fully charged or healthy to begin with. (I don't know the distance between the dealer and your home or how long you have driven since the battery has been replaced.) Not saying that the Bluetooth module isn't failing and draining your battery, but just something to be aware of. Not sure which model NOCO jump starter you got but I have a NOCO trickle charger that I bought years ago and if my car sits for two weeks or more, I will throw the trickle charger on it to top it off. My battery is an Interstate Megatron (three years old) and is able to start my car after two weeks of sitting. I've found that two weeks+ of sitting, it's not a guarantee that it will start. I make a point of taking my car out and running it for about 30 miles a week now. I think it's a good idea in general to get all the fluids and moving parts up to normal operating temps and moving anyway.
Radiator - Engine coolant should be replaced when the "5" shows up on your maintenance minder. Holistically it should be done every two years or 30K
Service Advisor/Service Tech - More often than not the communication happens between the Service Advisor and the customer but it's not unheard of to ask to speak to the Service Tech. Brining your car elsewhere once in a while for a second opinion can be a good idea. If you find an indie shop that specializes in Japanese cars may be beneficial and may save you some $$.
Error Codes/ DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) - Not sure if this would be helpful to you or not and you car needs to have navigation, but I posted this info 10 years ago - https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...ed-nav-822769/ And this is different than the maintenance minder codes.
Axles - I agree with Pair of TLs, not sure I would be replacing them proactively. As I mentioned above, I replaced both but only because the CV joints were on their way out - BUT, I only did them as needed, which happened to be consecutive years.
Suspension - depending on where you live and the condition of the roads, the suspension may not be anything you need to be concerned about for a really long time.

Hope this helps and again feel free to ask question as this is part of what makes this forum so great.

 

Hi Again,



I think I have replaced a CV Joint and a “boot” at some point too and I am wondering if the whole Axle should have just been replaced (if those things are even connected).



My regular Acura service tech is out due to this weather we are having. The guy that is there knows me and my car and knows I am in there regularly and my car is highly maintained. He said he would come to my house and jump my car for me in a couple days when it’s safe to drive again (this may not make sense to the people living where ice/snow is normal)… So, he agreed it might be the blutooth thing and we may have to look at disconnecting that. He also said he would be okay with the idea of preemptively replacing the Alternator (but, that was the only thing he would make an exception for replacing preemptively). He would not agree that I should put off the timing belt for even six months (because I think they can’t say that). I put it off 3 months the first time (time, not mileage) and I will probably add another 3 months to that to bring it into being replaced in the Summer a year from now rather than February 2023 I will do it in June/July 2023. It will be another time instead of mileage. I am thinking maybe I should have the Alternator replaced at the same time (preemptively, unless all this stuff with my battery turns out to really be about the Alternator). He said I would have some kind of code coming on battery low or something if it was the Alerntaor.



I ordered the NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12 Volt UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter from Walmart for $80. It will arrive 1/3 (hopefully). I may take that Acura guy up on just getting my car started even though I don’t plant to drive it for another week.

 

Hi again, Bugs.

Hope you're getting the notion that we on this forum are more than happy to help, especially the vulnerable. You don't have to apologize for being a neophyte. The more we know about your situation the more we can provide suggestions. That said, the guy at the dealership service dept that you first talk to is a Service Advisor. The guy who works on your car that has been professionally trained on Acuras is your Service Technician, or tech. We actually have a couple of those guys on this forum who are super-helpful to even us experienced guys, but they're spread pretty thin across several forums. Most of the regulars on this form do their own work and know their way around these TLs (and other cars) and have been 'spinning wrenches' for several decades. Ahem. Everybody loves to save a few bucks and tell you how they did it, but again, they're doing the work themselves.

We call dealerships 'stealerships' because original equipment manufacturer (OEM, aka Honda, Acura) is pricier, but the quality is what aftermarket (parts stores suppliers) fail to achieve. Dealers have a high overhead (covering warranties and such) so depending on the work you car needs, sometimes the dealer is the way to go and sometimes an independent shop is best. Example: Oil changes and air filters and wipers are a commodity and are half the dealer's price if you go to a drive-thru joint. (Guys here will cringe, but it's the best for YOUR situation.) Hope you can find an HONEST & QUALITY independent repair shop that can do things like brakes and minor repairs where NAPA parts will do. You'll save $50/hr in labor and 10-20% on parts (indy shops have to mark up part prices, too.) There's bad dealerships and bad indy shops out there, but if your dealer takes good care of you it's worth a few extra bucks for peace of mind.

Anyway, back to YOUR car. Do you have an OWNERS MANUAL? Read it. You will learn a LOT. If not, get one from ebay or Amazon or something.
You car is just broken in and can go 300K+ if cared for.
Now, you do not need an alternator. You do not need axles. You PROBABLY don't even need a timing belt/water pump replacement (I could bore you to tears explaining why it is truly pre-emptive.) Quit thinking about pre-emptive replacement. If you TL get professional-quality inspections, you will have plenty of notice when a part starts to go bad. If you're 'in tune' with your car (like if the brakes begin to pull to one side) the brakes are not going to fail and cause you to crash, but they need to be checked out and serviced and that's as pre-emptive as you need to be. Electrical issues CAN pop up out of nowhere (like a stuck relay or a ground wire loosens up, but that's rare.

Sounds like you're remote, so it's pretty swell that the Service Advisor will come out and jump your car. You should run it for a couple hours to fully charge it or it may not start your car the next day. Not trying to scare you, here, just awareness.

Nice chatting with you....

 

Pair of TLs,

Thanks for schooling me on the difference between an Advisor and a Technician. I don't want to offend anyone. I am sure my lack of knowledge here kind of speaks for itself.

I am bracing myself for the battery thing not being over (for sure). I will need to get the guts to jump my own battery (since it looks like that is a skill that I am going to need going forward now (gulp)). I have never opened my hood unless I was next to someone working on my car for me. So, this is a big step. Now that it affects me I am ready to replace those hood struts -- LOL.

Yeah, I am probably better off at the dealer. I start "looking around" when my Service Advisor is out with Covid or on vacation. In most of my relationships I am loyal -- LOL. But, I am one missed call away from looking for a new Advisor (he's like a security blanket at this point).

I want the benefit of a fantastic used car (my own) instead of trading it in (and I appreciate you guys helping me learn so that I can gain the confidence to keep going to death do I part with my beloved '08 TL). I do have my owner's manual (and you caught me not having read it). I have it downloaded and I look things up (so, at least I have done that). I will read it before I come back and asking more questions. I have used this site for a while without ever posting anything. I guess I was pretty desperate with a dead car. I'm actually not remote. I am 8 miles from the dealer and 11 miles from downtown PDX and 2 miles to Discount Tires, etc.,, etc. It's just that snow/ice is rare here and everything shuts down and stops moving. I just had my car towed to the dealer to have a new batter installed Dec 10. Then, like I said, I was detailing my car and expecting ice/snow so I parked in the garage and did not drive from Dec 21 to Dec 27/8 when I noticed it's dead again (so, maybe not just the battery or like you said when I got it out of the shop I didn't drive it long enough (the same day it was damaged in a parking lot so I was dealing with that aspect). Anywho...

I might do the Alternator when the Timing Belt is done in around mid 2023. I definitely want to keep this car until I retire in 7 or 8 years. It is a good size to take to the downtown area and parking garages, etc. I might get something different in retirement (or maybe just another TLX -- who knows)...

 

You're always welcome to ask us anything, Bugs.

You can also learn how to jump your battery going to youtube if you can't find it in your owners manual.

 

I bought my wife a Base TL with 44k miles back in 2018. Fast forward today the car has 111k miles the only abnormal replacement was the rear shock leaked at 90k miles, fixed with OEM set. 2 batteries replacement as one of them is free because still under warranty . The only major service I did is the 105k service which I had the shop reseal the oil pump assembly as well.

Mechanically these car isn't too terrible to work on and the forum here has pool of information, part is somewhat cheap compare to other Japanese brand. I wouldn't let the dealer repair scare you, my wife found it out when pick the car up lol. Originally got quoted $2500 for a steering rack replacement, later on she pick the car up paying only $770 for the same work done using OEM part (yes work was done at the very same dealer that gave the initial quote).

 

^^^^ This +100%

 

Why? TB service on these is based on mileage not age. I mean it isn't the worst thing to replace, but possibly overkill. If you are going to go off of the 7yr mark, please tell me you aren't doing that service at the Acura dealer? I know my local Honda dealer was almost half the cost of the Acura dealer.

Again....why? I had my TL for 13 years and replaced the battery twice. If you aren't driving it much, get a proper battery maintainer. Get that BT module disconnected and that most likely will resolve your battery issues.

 

The TB is miles or years/age (whichever comes first). There aren't a lot of specialty shops in my area and I'm afraid of burning the bridge with the dealer.

They want to do a parasitic draw test on it. There's more than one or two things it could be.

 

Kindly show me any form written that Honda stated TB has to replaced every 7 years for 3G TL? So far I got nothing but cricket. Recently I just replaced not one but TWO TB that came originally with the car since new and they are showing no sign of rotted/ degraded. I also made a thread to debunk the dealer myth of 7 years or mileage (which ever come first). Note one of the TL TB due because of mileage and the other because the TB hydraulic tensioner are failing.

TB/WP Need to be replaced at 105k miles or 7 years? - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

 

Hi Truonghthe -

What I have come to realize (after 13 years of ownership of my Acura TL) is that the maintenance is driven off the Codes. Since I don't work on my own car I don't see the codes. On Page 284 of my manual it mentions the Maintenance Minder and the Codes. It specifically mentions if you drive in above 110 degrees or -20 degrees regularly you should change the timing belt every 60,000 miles. I also just realized I don't own the Service Manual (and the fact that if I had read the Owner's Manual I would have realized I could buy a Service Manual -- actually I still could for $250 now...).

I see changing the TB at the intervals Acura/Honda tells me to as an Insurance Policy. But, also I'm reading that more of concern is probably the Water Pump (so, probably it's more like you need to change the Water Pump so you might as well change the TB while you are at it. There are other belts and things that go along with that service. There is no known lifetime for the Water Pump (an open question). Years ago I read about a study that the Engineers did (and statistical probabilities; for some reason I remember 9 years as the outer limits... ...I have no idea where I read that at this point). I believe I could probably push it if I wanted to (at least another 1-2 years).

For me, at this point, I really need my 13 year old car to go another 7-8 years. My TB is due Feb of 2023 (I can push it a few months). So, that would buy me that additional time I need the vehicle to run before replacing it. I have no mechanical abilities.

 

If you have to 'buy', you can get a PDF 'download' from the website below for $21.99:
Acura TL 2007, 2008 Service Manual | AutoManualSource

Otherwise, use one of the links on the thread below to get a free PDF download copy:
3G TL service manual 2004-2008 Acura TL sharing with all - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

 

For 2007-08 TL this manual is nicer. Has all bookmarks so searching for anything is much easier.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p.../#post16101585

 

Peter6,
This works!!! It looks like it is The Service Manual itself. Hoorah! It's only 2,500 pages. I can read it tonight -- LOL.

 

I wouldn't do anything that doesn't need replacing.

At 115K, there should be VERY little that needs replacing.

Maybe axles? Are they shaking or making noise?

Sway bar links can start to wear...but this isn't a big deal.

Compliance bushings in the front control arm are another "maybe".

Don't bother just tossing MASSIVE amounts of parts at the car...there's no sense in that.

Don't worry about the cats till they fail. Whats the point of prediction here? If you change them early, you're throwing out good parts. The cats should be fine for 200K+ with normal driving.

Do preventative maintenance to the trans. Drain and fills every 10K miles or so. And maybe do the pressure switches if you feel slip.

My dad has a 07 with 250K miles. The ATF in the trans is at least 150-200K miles old. NOTHING has been done for this trans that I'm aware of. It still drives fine.

Most of the parts are original. Its needed a starter, shocks, sway bar links, front control arms (due only to rusted/stuck bolts), and lower ball joints as irregular items.

The rest is just normal maintenance. 8-10K mile oil changes (synthetic). Brakes. Tyres. Timing belts. The axles were original at 250K also. Unfortunately, a lower ball joint failed and killed the axle.

It doesn't burn any oil...still starts right up and drives strong.

Just drive it....toss in fixes as needed. Its not nickel and diming....its just doing what's necessary.

 

BROlando,
I very much appreciate your response. I need some time to adequately respond to this. I will look over my records later this week or on the weekend and give you some examples. I have a deadline right now. Talk to you soon.

 

One thing to add Bugs: the Bluetooth module on these cars is known to put a constant load on the battery, this causes batteries to wear out much faster. You can pull apart your lighting panel above the rearview mirror and disconnect that module to save your battery. Of course if you do use the Bluetooth functions, you won't want to do this !

 

I don't use the bluetooth. However, I do use in the interior lights. The dealer wants close to $100 to disconnect the bluetooth. There's always a chance it could be something else. I was so proud of myself I jump started my car! I even replaced 1 hood strut (the other one is on order). The dealer wants almost $100 to perform a parasitic draw test. I've thought I might just pay them to disconnect the bluetooth (but, it could be something else).. I don't know what I'm doing, but, the battery cables look a bit corroded. I think I should maybe request they replace those cables. If there is a YouTube video somewhere on how to disconnect the bluetooth then maybe I can do it myself. ?? ??

Do you know the plug that is in the center console? I got a new iPhone (my first) and I ordered what I thought was a cigarette lighter charger. But, it was too small and I was testing it in that center console plug. I'm thinking maybe that's what sucked my battery dry? My first iPhone. I've always just used the cigarette lighter chargers.

It took me far too long to detail my car (paint correction (hours and hours over several days). Finally today I took that NOCO charger out there; started up my car and took it out on the freeway (and country backroads where the freeway slowed down too much). I took that charger out of the center console. Tomorrow I will go out and attempt to start my car to see if that new battery held a charge or not. If it still starts, then I will wait 2-3 days before I try to start it again. If it still starts after all that I think I fixed my own problem by remembering I stuck that charger in the center console.

 

I did not get to this yet. I worked on the car all weekend. I also applied for a voluntary detail at work (working for the head honchos) which will require me to work almost non-stop for the next 3-6 months. But, I will find time to go through my records. I created a summary back in 2017 (and I noticed I have not updated it since then -- Eek!)

 

This guy shows the disconnect procedure:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1xdyZjaeXqs

I'd rate it 2 out of 10 difficulty so it could be a good starting point for your wrenching career . The gotchas are popping off the light panel without breaking it (take your time and work around the lip of the plastic while prying firmly but not too violently ) and disconnecting the plugs (find the plastic "keeper" and push in on it while wiggling the connector, keep at it as sometimes they're sticky). Some people use a pick to depress the keeper while they're disconnecting. Note the orientation of the panels you disassembled and test the lights before you reassemble.

When you saved yourself $100 and your battery doesn't die, treat yourself to a coffee or beer, or both.