possible clutch problems
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
possible clutch problems
I am original owner of the car and lately (I am at 39k miles) I have noticed that if I step up on my car on 1st and 2nd gear, the next time I need to press clutch to shift it is much harder and takes almost twice more force to do it. After that one (hard) initial shift, things get back to normal. Is this a sign of my clutch going out? This would be really strange as I rarely drive hard or keep my car in gears all the way to the redline etc. I also do not do any burn outs or ride my clutch at all.
Does anyone have any experience with this issue or perhaps this is just a normal thing – strangle a thing I never noticed before.
Does anyone have any experience with this issue or perhaps this is just a normal thing – strangle a thing I never noticed before.
#2
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
The 6MT has inherent synchro issues. So clutch pedal pressure may vary.. which is the reason they held off on releasing at MT for the 4G TL until now. I'm sure you know about the 3rd gear issue as well.. use GMSynchromesh MTF if you haven't already. It may alleviate your issue.
#4
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
The amount of pressure you need to apply before engaging gear. Like needing to push in the clutch pedal all the way in vs. 2/3 on other shifts. The synchos on some gears don't seem to engage very well if the shaft isn't fully disengaged. That's how I understand the issue.. I could be wrong.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The 6MT has inherent synchro issues. So clutch pedal pressure may vary.. which is the reason they held off on releasing at MT for the 4G TL until now. I'm sure you know about the 3rd gear issue as well.. use GMSynchromesh MTF if you haven't already. It may alleviate your issue.
The problem I have is that the clutch requires about 2 times more force to engage if I push my car on 1st or 2nd gear; however, the next time I press the clutch, it is all normal like nothing happened.
#6
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Do you hear any noises associated with the clutch? like a whine?
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
no noises at all. If I drive my car like I usually do, I do not have the problem at all. It is only when i try to make a spirited take off the red light and gun it till the redline. Could this be the fact that my clutch disc is wrapping or slipping perhaps?
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#8
If this was my experience, the 1st thing I would do is bleed the clutch fluid and start fresh. It's cheap, easy and may alleviate the problem. If it continues, chances are it's more of a master or slave cylinder problem. I still can't imagine what it had to do w/ engine speed...
The only thing I could think of that would "normally" cause a change in pedal pressure at high rpm would be a weighted pressure plate, but I'm quite sure Honda doesn't use those. It's essentially weights on each of the finger springs of the pressure plate that cause the clutch to grab harder and harder the faster it spins. This would make the pedal harder to move as the motor winds up.
The only thing I could think of that would "normally" cause a change in pedal pressure at high rpm would be a weighted pressure plate, but I'm quite sure Honda doesn't use those. It's essentially weights on each of the finger springs of the pressure plate that cause the clutch to grab harder and harder the faster it spins. This would make the pedal harder to move as the motor winds up.
#9
Registered Member
The amount of pressure you need to apply before engaging gear. Like needing to push in the clutch pedal all the way in vs. 2/3 on other shifts. The synchos on some gears don't seem to engage very well if the shaft isn't fully disengaged. That's how I understand the issue.. I could be wrong.
"The synchos on some gears don't seem to engage very well if the shaft isn't fully disengaged."
Synchronizers don't engage in the context of gear, but they do mate in order to force shaft speeds to match. The shafts themselves do not disenage.. they are simply shafts on which gears, via their hubs and collars, ride.
#10
Registered Member
If this was my experience, the 1st thing I would do is bleed the clutch fluid and start fresh. It's cheap, easy and may alleviate the problem. If it continues, chances are it's more of a master or slave cylinder problem. I still can't imagine what it had to do w/ engine speed...
The only thing I could think of that would "normally" cause a change in pedal pressure at high rpm would be a weighted pressure plate, but I'm quite sure Honda doesn't use those. It's essentially weights on each of the finger springs of the pressure plate that cause the clutch to grab harder and harder the faster it spins. This would make the pedal harder to move as the motor winds up.
The only thing I could think of that would "normally" cause a change in pedal pressure at high rpm would be a weighted pressure plate, but I'm quite sure Honda doesn't use those. It's essentially weights on each of the finger springs of the pressure plate that cause the clutch to grab harder and harder the faster it spins. This would make the pedal harder to move as the motor winds up.
#11
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Well, this is a bit off center. First, you should always fully disengage your clutch when shifting. Not doing this will impart unnecessary wear on your synchronizers.
"The synchos on some gears don't seem to engage very well if the shaft isn't fully disengaged."
Synchronizers don't engage in the context of gear, but they do mate in order to force shaft speeds to match. The shafts themselves do not disenage.. they are simply shafts on which gears, via their hubs and collars, ride.
"The synchos on some gears don't seem to engage very well if the shaft isn't fully disengaged."
Synchronizers don't engage in the context of gear, but they do mate in order to force shaft speeds to match. The shafts themselves do not disenage.. they are simply shafts on which gears, via their hubs and collars, ride.
On the TL MT, would double clutching show if the master / slave cylinder has gone bad? drain & fill should be a no brainer, make sure to buy GM Synch MTF.
#12
Registered Member
SouthernBoy our MT guru .. lol.. I guess I really need to get my wording right. I meant the same context that some of the synchronizers weren't matching the shaft speed before mating possibly due to the clutch not being fully disengaged. Correct me if that's wrong as well.
On the TL MT, would double clutching show if the master / slave cylinder has gone bad? drain & fill should be a no brainer, make sure to buy GM Synch MTF.
On the TL MT, would double clutching show if the master / slave cylinder has gone bad? drain & fill should be a no brainer, make sure to buy GM Synch MTF.
If you have not fully disengaged the clutch when making a shift, depending upon how much pressure is being exerted by the pressure plate on the friction disk, the synchronizers will suffer quite a bit of wear for that shift IF they are even able to do their job. The pressure plate is capable of exerting many times the pressure that the driver can do with the synchronizers when he tries to make a shift.
But your above sentence indicates you have it right.
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