Please Help - Engine Metal Grind At 2000RPM

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Old Dec 14, 2010 | 08:41 PM
  #1  
charmer888's Avatar
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Please Help - Engine Metal Grind At 2000RPM

I've searched everywhere and can't find an answer. I have a grinding/metal knocking noise which sounds to be in the engine area only at 2000 RPM. This only happens on a cold start and only grinds on 1st and 2nd gear. The grinding goes away when the car is driven for about 10-15 mintues.

I've read it might be the heat shield or torque converter. Some say I need a transmission flush.

Has anyone ever experience this? Please Help.

I have an 2006 Acura TL (Automatic).

Thanks!
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Old Dec 14, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #2  
pohljm's Avatar
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hopefully its the heat shield rattling, but keep us posted on what it was.
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 11:01 AM
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01tl4tl's Avatar
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dont use the word flush and trans together on a TL--flush to a shop means machine powered and using the wrong fluid for the TL

manual drain and refill is the preferred by acura method
how many times you drain and refill the 3 qts of 7.3 total capacity is a subject of debate

get the car in the air or over a pit and ck the heat shields
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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I have the same issue on my 07TL. Getting very loud noise on cold start in the morning around engine area. I think it could be my belt tensioner or pulley sth like that.


Originally Posted by charmer888
I've searched everywhere and can't find an answer. I have a grinding/metal knocking noise which sounds to be in the engine area only at 2000 RPM. This only happens on a cold start and only grinds on 1st and 2nd gear. The grinding goes away when the car is driven for about 10-15 mintues.

I've read it might be the heat shield or torque converter. Some say I need a transmission flush.

Has anyone ever experience this? Please Help.

I have an 2006 Acura TL (Automatic).

Thanks!
Reply
Old Dec 15, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #5  
TRIOD3SIGNS's Avatar
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HRM... this was the same description my wife gave me, one cold morning when she went to work. Ended up being air penetrating the Power Steering Pump through a failing O-Ring. ... I figured it would whine more than grind, but those are the words she gave me. Took me a week to diagnose because it would only happen on extra cold mornings. Turned out it did sound a bit grindy, & the noise came from the passenger side of the engine bay.

Anyhow, searched & replaced the $3 O-ring & BINGO... FIXED!
More details on this thread..... Something about heat drying out & hardening the ring, so On cold mornings it is extra hard & wont fully expand to seal the connection properly... thus letting air in & causing the pump to sound grinndy/whiny until it warms up/softens & seals the connection.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...power+steering

TRY THIS FIRST... if it doesn't fix it, it only ends up being a preventative maintenance expense. AT A WHOLE $3 I think it is very smart to start with.

BTW, how many miles on ur TL? Mine had the noise around 90K
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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charmer888's Avatar
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I have exactly 100,000 km = 62,000 miles. I think I'm going take your advice and get the O-ring replaced. I'll keep you posted. Thanks!
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 11:30 AM
  #7  
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From: south ozone park queens ny, 11420
I Have this same problem with my 05 tl, i have no idea wat it is =/
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #8  
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its not the o-ring i already did that a few weeks ago for a different noise
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 11:08 PM
  #9  
charmer888's Avatar
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You're right Donny. Changing the O-ring at the power steering hose will stop the hissiling noise on a cold start. Mine makes a grinding at 2000 rpm and would stop if i go pass or below this. I have drained the transmission fluid by doing the 3x3. It still makes the grinding/knocking metal noise at 2000rpm no matter which gear. The grinding stops when the car is fully warmed up. When I come to think of it, I think it might be one of the idler/pulley belts or tensioner. I pray that it's not my transmission.

Donny - What's the mileage on your car and when was the last time you change your timing belt? Let me know if/when you solve the mystery.

Last edited by charmer888; Dec 20, 2010 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 02:41 PM
  #10  
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From: south ozone park queens ny, 11420
i have 67,000 miles and as for the timing belt im not sure ill keep u posted....i put 2,000 dollars of parts in my car the past 6 months and the noises started right after i put a new rack and pinion finding ur post was very helpful cause i never new the noise starts at 2000rpm ,do u have warranty ?
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Old Dec 25, 2010 | 11:08 PM
  #11  
frgarcia's Avatar
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possible cracked flywheel?
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:35 AM
  #12  
donny0391's Avatar
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From: south ozone park queens ny, 11420
Sorry this might be stupid but what is that >?
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #13  
charmer888's Avatar
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Fixed! Two of the nuts from the heatshield that wraps around the Catalytic Converter were rusted. It was so rusted that the top of the shield was hitting the bottom of the shield whenever I accelerated. I've replaced the two nuts and BINGO, no more rattling/grinding noise.

I'm a happy camper.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 08:48 AM
  #14  
donny0391's Avatar
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From: south ozone park queens ny, 11420
did u do it ur self ? and if so do u kno the part number of the nuts u bought ?
please more info on the fix ,,
CONGRATULATIONS On the fix!!!
i kno what a head ach it is =/
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 06:47 PM
  #15  
charmer888's Avatar
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Yes, I did it myself. I raised the car with a hydraulic jack and placed it on two jack stands. The metal cover/shield covering the rear catalytic converter were rusted. I replaced the top and bottom cover and the 4 rusted nuts/self-locking nuts.

Here are the part#:
18122-RCA-A00 - top cover of rear catalytic converter
18123-RCA-A00 - bottom cover of catalytic converter
I couldn't find the part number for the nuts. It's number 15 on the diagram below. You will need 4 of the nuts and 4 self-locking nuts. You can also unscrew them and get it from the dealership.

Tools I used:
10mm socket wrench or wrench
12mm wrench
2 jack stands
1 hydraulic jack (or some kind of jack to lift your car on the jackstands)
2 cloth gloves (optional - so you don't burn or cut yourself)

I replaced #5, 6, 15,
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...VERTER+COVER+B

Just make sure you check which sheild is rattling. It could also be the catalytic converter between the engine block and radiator. You should be able to see the front catalytic converter when you pop the hood. Mine was the rear catalytic converter connected to the exhaust pipe.

Keep us posted. Good Luck!

Last edited by charmer888; Dec 30, 2010 at 06:58 PM.
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