I think. Took it to a mechanic. All the typical electrical items (battery, alt, starter) check out. HFL doing the typical booting up. He disconnected the HFL and let it set overnight. Would not start. Does the HFL need to be functional for the draw to stop?

I have noticed that the memory seats have been acting weird also. Do the memory seats and HFL reside on the same module?

 

If the battery checks out, then why do you think you have parasitic draw? The battery should be dead if that's the case.

Could be a bad starter or bad cable connection. Will it start if you jump it?

What year/model?

There is a seat memory TSB for 04-06 TLs FYI.

 

If he's using an ammeter, then the mechanic should be able to find the draw immediately. Not wait overnight, it's just a waste of time.

The HFL usually draws .250A and drops down to .035A when disconnected. It only takes 15 mins at most to see that drop.

 

got a multimeter? see this guide:

 

The a/c relay can fry and stick in the on position. It powers up the compressor clutch even with the car off. It is a black four pole relay in the underhood fuse box. Pull it out and if you hear a click there is your problem

 

Also make sure your kick panel fuse box and multiplex box is dry. The sunroof drains sometime get clogged and leak on the fuse box.

 

We picked up our car last night and I noticed that the car's interior lights were not on. Is it possible he disconnected the interior lights and not the HFL?

Thanks for the video EZ12a and thanks for all the other suggestions! I have borrowed a friend's multimeter. Hopefully I can track it down.

 

Dude, you said the battery was good. How can your battery be good if you have a parasitic draw?

FYI, there is a somewhat epic thread in the audio forum that shows how to disconnect the HFL. Yes, it's possible he didn't do it right, but again, I don't see how you have a parasitic draw if the battery is still good. The battery should have been dead, not good.

 

It's also possible that the tech set the interior light switch (in front of the sunroof switch) to "off" while pulling out the HFL. Try flipping that switch to see if the interior lights operate.

 

^^^excellent pt. Bet that's it.

 

It is good meaning it tested good after a charge/jump.


Ha, thanks. I already checked that.

I hope to tear into it tomorrow. It rained all day today. Hate not having a garage. I will post back if anything changes. Thanks everyone!

 

I had a parasitic draw- it was the radio which eventually fried and I had to replace it.

 

2005 TL 111,000 miles. HFL disconnected.

Following multimeter guidelines above, here are my results:

Battery fully charged

.24 amps when sitting, then in a few seconds jumps to .64, then returns to .24 and repeats jumping to .64 and repeats over and over.

Removing fuse 7, Backup fuse, the value falls to .1

Suggestions, please.

 

There's a TSB for 04-05 TLs that corrects a situation where the navi doesn't turn off.

But even at 100 milliamps (with fuse #7 pulled), the current draw is too high. Watch the video and run through the steps to find the source.

 

A long shot, but the TL Manual (page 87) instructs turning off the Auto setting for the headlights if the car is going to be sitting more than a week--so there must be a light monitor drawing something there. Good luck!

 

Guys, thanks so much for the replies.

My bad. The HFL plug was not unplugged. I unplugged it. Everything is good. Thanks, again!

 

THIS is what I've been hunting down for the past 2 years. Resolved the problem a month ago.