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I just got back from vacation today, tried to unlock the doors with the remote... Nothing. That's happened multiple times before (after about a week of not being started), and jump starting it always resolves the issue. This time, I didn't have jumper cables (well, I do, but they are in BAD shape). I called AAA. They came out, tried to test everything and get it to start with no luck. He tried jumping it with the jumper box <--- not sure what it's really called. He also tried jumping it straight from his truck. Anyway, still nothing. I have no lights (even when he's got power to it), doors won't lock/unlock, etc... He said it may be a fuse, but that he couldn't tell and I'd need a tow to a shop and so on. I'm really not sure what to do... I'm not a car expert, but I do know a thing or two about circuits and electronic systems (CS/EE major currently).
Thanks for reading, and I hope I can get some suggestions! Thanks AcuraZine
TLDR: TL won't start, maybe I need to throw it away?
Battery was changed in 2010. Doesn't seem like it could be a bad battery because even with cables connected to a good battery, I get nothing... I'd think I'd get at least some lights, because wouldn't that just be supplying sort of "artificial" power to the system?
Battery was changed in 2010. Doesn't seem like it could be a bad battery because even with cables connected to a good battery, I get nothing... I'd think I'd get at least some lights, because wouldn't that just be supplying sort of "artificial" power to the system?
NOT if the battery is on its last leg. if it cant hold a charge, then you cant jump it.
AUtozone usually test batteries and alternators for free.
Bring the battery to them and have it tested
NOT if the battery is on its last leg. if it cant hold a charge, then you cant jump it.
AUtozone usually test batteries and alternators for free.
Bring the battery to them and have it tested
Hmmm... I don't really have a way to get it to AutoZone. Can I just run a test with a voltmeter? I thought the AAA guy said he was able to get like 2 amps running through it. From an electrical standpoint, this should be MORE than enough to power running lights or something.
^^^^ You can check it with a volt meter. A good battery sould be around 13V. But if the battery has a bad cell, it's toast.
Voltmeter is at my parents house... No luck there. Today is going well :P I guess I could make one, but that would just tell me if there is any power, not how much. Also, in my previous post I said Amps where I meant volts... I don't know how to edit posts on this forum.
You can't edit posts on this forum after a few minutes, for whatever reason.
If the battery was bad, a jump would show it. The car should show signs of life, unless the battery is really shorted inside. Even then, the car would likely react in some way, or you should at least notice a gigantic spark when you connect the jumper cables.
Standing voltage on the battery isn't terribly useful. The remote door unlock should take such little power that it should work in most any situation. If that's doing nothing, with jumper cables properly connected to a running car, you have an issue somewhere.
I'd check the ground. You could wiggle it, or inspect the connection to the chassis for corrosion, or measure for voltage between the - on the battery and the engine. It should be near 0, if you are reading near battery voltage, you have a bad ground. Of course check all fuses as well if the ground is good.
The battery should read about 12.6V unloaded, fairly charged. Below about 12.2V and it's in bad shape, but most electronics should show some signs of life, it would just be a questionable start.
If the battery was bad, a jump would show it. The car should show signs of life, unless the battery is really shorted inside. Even then, the car would likely react in some way, or you should at least notice a gigantic spark when you connect the jumper cables.
No spark when connected to the AAA guy's jumper box, or his truck, but he did connect to my car first (I thought you did it the other way).
I'd check the ground. You could wiggle it, or inspect the connection to the chassis for corrosion, or measure for voltage between the - on the battery and the engine. It should be near 0, if you are reading near battery voltage, you have a bad ground. Of course check all fuses as well if the ground is good.
Checked ground, seemed just fine. VERY minimal corrosion to terminals, but I did clean them both very well just in case. Just checked all fuses. The ones I can see are NOT blown. I've posted a picture below of my fuse box. The bottom part of the big fuse next to the screws looks fine. I can barely see the top part of the fuse, but to me, it looks blown. I can't seem to pull it with the fuse puller and my needlenose pliers are with my Voltmeter lol. This looks like some kind of main fuse. Does it even have two wires in that fuse? One looks horizontal, while the other looks to be vertical.
The battery should read about 12.6V unloaded, fairly charged. Below about 12.2V and it's in bad shape, but most electronics should show some signs of life, it would just be a questionable start.
I'll have to try this later. Waiting for my gf to get off work so I can go buy a new Voltmeter. I almost have to refuse that it's my battery though. It worked just fine before my vacation. It was tested not too long ago when I had a new starter put in as well.
Just realized I forgot to post the picture! The part I colored red is the part I'm talking about that "might" be bad, but I can't be sure. The part in green looks fine.
Just realized I forgot to post the picture! The part I colored red is the part I'm talking about that "might" be bad, but I can't be sure. The part in green looks fine.
Okay nevermind about that pic... Here's another. I finally got that thing out (just had to unscrew the bolts lol)... It looks like the top is blown (it has a circled 1 around it) which makes me think that's the 120? And that's my problem? Can't get to the auto parts store for another couple of hours, so hopefully someone will chime in by then. Thanks for everyone's help thus far.
have your tried to jump start or replace the battery..
I had to lol at your response. Did you just skip down and hit reply after only reading the title? Anyway, yes... I have tried to jump start the car, and I don't think it's the battery, but I'll try replacing the battery if nothing else works.
I took the housing off that big fuse, and it def. doesn't look right to me. Sorry in advance for the big pic, but it's the only way I could see the internals.
EDIT: Would it be completely crazy to just try to solder this back together?
I doubt you could find that anywhere aside from a dealer.
The top link sure looks bad enough to have popped, I would imagine the solder should appear to be nice and smooth like the other one. However, it didn't exactly explode, and its hard to tell if its broken in that picture.
I would ohm it out, make sure its open. Or try to pass some current into it if you have a power supply, random load, and some clip leads. Probably going to need to get that from a dealer. It's probably called a 'fusible link' rather than a fuse.
Well, I guess I'm stuck till Friday. I'll have to get a multimeter when I can get to the store. Tough fixing things when it's the car that's broken. And nothing here is within walking distance.
Is that upper link broken? It looks intact, just covered with what appears to be solder and flux residue?
Does it have continuity?
Just grabbed a cheap-o continuity tester... Continuity in the bottom, but not the top as we had suspected. Hopefully just replacing the fuse (when it comes in) and jumping the car will do the trick. If not, I'm lost.
Good News! The new fuse did the trick! They run about 16$ from Acura (if anyone else ends up having the same problem). Thanks for all the help everyone.
Wow, crazy. This happened to me today. Can I ask some questions?
That picture above....where is that fuse located? Is it in the box where the cable from the positive of the battery goes to? If so, which one is it?
My car died at the airport and the attendant crossed the cables. I ended up having to jump from the fuse box and drive on all alternator power. I changed the battery and the terminals, but am not getting a circuit, so I suspect that the same thing happened to me.
So yea....if you could tell me which fuse that it, I would really appreciate it. I was thinking that I would have to replace the battery cables, or something.
My 06 tl just crapped out this morning at 4a.m. On the way to work. I stopped at the gas station to fuel up and grab some coffee. 10 minutes later I get into my car started it and it just shut off in like 2 seconds! Tried starting it and no power at all, I mean no lights, radio, horn, door locks, remote, trunk, etc. anything electrical wouldn't work. Left the car and got a ride from my stepdad came back after work and getting a ride from my buddy which is a honda technician. It's 7pm now and we took that battery fuse out and guess what it's blown. Couldn't tell until we shook it around and heard bits dangling in there. Took it apart and yep it's busted. So let's hope acura or honda has this fuse in stock tomorrow and I'll buy two just in case there is a ground short somewhere.
Do do you have the part number for the fuse? My 2005 RL did the same thing this weekend and I fixed it by jumping the circuit with 2 10 gauge wires and a 100a fuse. I'd still like to get the correct piece back in the block but cannot find it anywhere
Originally Posted by tl_cody
So here's the story:
I just got back from vacation today, tried to unlock the doors with the remote... Nothing. That's happened multiple times before (after about a week of not being started), and jump starting it always resolves the issue. This time, I didn't have jumper cables (well, I do, but they are in BAD shape). I called AAA. They came out, tried to test everything and get it to start with no luck. He tried jumping it with the jumper box <--- not sure what it's really called. He also tried jumping it straight from his truck. Anyway, still nothing. I have no lights (even when he's got power to it), doors won't lock/unlock, etc... He said it may be a fuse, but that he couldn't tell and I'd need a tow to a shop and so on. I'm really not sure what to do... I'm not a car expert, but I do know a thing or two about circuits and electronic systems (CS/EE major currently).
Thanks for reading, and I hope I can get some suggestions! Thanks AcuraZine
TLDR: TL won't start, maybe I need to throw it away?
I had the exact same issue off and on for about 1 year. I had replaced my starter, battery. I finally took it into Acura dealership and they replaced the negative cable going to the battery. Seems like when it was wet outside the car would act up more. The cable cost about $50.00 from Acura but you can probably find one cheaper online. The symptons of my issues were sometime car would start and ask for input the Navigation code, sometimes the radio code, sometime the car would not turn over, other times the car was completely dead (no horn, no locks), it seemed if I would let the car sit or hit the break peddle the car would act normal again. I could sometimes take the car out of park and move to neutral and back to park and sometimes it would then start. I have an Acura 2005 MDX and I hope this helps someone in the future with these simlar issues
My rdx 2013 got same problem today, after not drive for long time due to Coronavirus. I jumped the car correctly, but now dead. How to jump start in the fuse box, so I can drive the car home first?
Does your rdx has main fuse? One between positive battery terminal and rest of the car? Probably like a 120A one. If it does, then that is what likely went bad.
If that is the case, it's better to bypass that fuse than to jump start from the box. Without the battery, there is nothing in the system to stabilize the alternator's output and bad things might happen.
What’s the name of this fuse ? Same exact thing happened to be and I’m trying to order a new one but legit don’t know the name of it and battery fuse isn’t popping up what I need
Originally Posted by tl_cody
I took the housing off that big fuse, and it def. doesn't look right to me. Sorry in advance for the big pic, but it's the only way I could see the internals.
EDIT: Would it be completely crazy to just try to solder this back together?
^
It looks like #5; Fuse A, Multi Block (120A/70A) ; Fuse Holder on the parts diagram below:
If it is, the part #38231-SFY-003 is in #31 BreezyTL's post above.
Search that part # and vendors will magically appear.
In addition, beware of rip-off knock offs offered on the interwebs. IMHO, I'd pay the $$ & get an OEM part.
07-24-2012, 12:19 PM
Got it tested at Advanced Auto.
