Hi All,

I've tried to read up on this but I really don't understand enough to even know what to do next. I've crossed 208,000 miles and thought it time to put in the second replacement set of plugs. The dealer did the first set around 105,000 miles so this is my first time tackling the job. I began the job by changing the oil and ATF fluid. Then, I went on a 140 mile trip. The job continued with the spark plug removal. The first two plugs (front passenger and middle) looked shockingly good. Then I pulled the driver side front. The ignition coil had oil in it! Even after pulling the plug, which was completely covered, there was still oil in the bottom of the plug 'chamber'. From what I could tell, that chamber was full of oil that then drained back down after I pulled the plug. This was NOT just a little bit. Forgive my stupidity but, it could only come from below right? I mean, was the plug loose (they all seemed loose but the torque rating is only 13' lbs and I am not sure how loose that should feel) and it blew through there? If so why?

At this point, I realized I should check the oil level. I usually pay better attention to the most important part of the oil change but I somehow didn't this time. My oil level was about 5mm ABOVE full! So, is this a minor overfill problem (if there is such a thing) and that plug was the easiest place for the oil to travel or do I need to do more besides letting out the extra oil? These two event are definitely related right?! I do not remember noticing any performance changes on my 140 mile trip and nothing that jumped out from the gauges. I have obviously not started it since I realized what an idiot I've been.

Thanks for any help or guidance!

 

The oil did not get into the sparkplug tube from the engine oil level being slightly above full.
You need to get a valve/head cover seal set, the sparkplug tubes have rubber seals on top of them (under the cover) keeping oil out of the tube & away from the sparkplug,your seals are shot.
Do both valve covers & check/adjust your valve clearance while you have the covers off.

 

Just change the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals.
ACURA TL HEAD COVER GASKET SET
Part# 12030-RCA-A01 $34.15/$25.61

 

Thank you both! Parts are ordered. Is the car driveable for a short trip or too much to risk? I don't have any idea of the severity of this problem. Sounds like it was probably going on for awhile and may only lead to some spark plug/ignition issues but confirmation would be excellent. Thanks!

 

Why would you not get a mis-fire on that cylinder?

 

Over a period of time, if left unchecked and the tube filled to the top, it may cause the coil/plug to short out, but have seen many that have run fine with the oil in the tube.

 

You will get misfires when the oil level gets high enough. I used to keep a plug socket and rachet in my honda so that when I went down a cylinder I could just pull into a parking lot, loosed the plug and let the oil go down into the chamber and then drive on - poor/lazy mans way to get by until I had time to change the gasket set.

 

Hi All,

Parts are here and I am down to removing the valve cover. Johnny3 clearly states that my new plug seals go under the cover. However, there is also some sort of seal/gasket at the top of the ignition coil between the coil and the cover (above the cover). Of the six coils that I removed only one of these seal/gaskets was loose from the coil. And it is the one that was full of oil. In fact, I have great difficulty trying to remove any of the others from the coil. Unfortunately, I can't find a part number at the acura oem website. Should this loose seal also be replaced or is it a coincidence? Anyone have a part number for it?

Thanks!

 

Replace the seals you already have, those are likely the culprit. The seals on the coil are primarily used to keep dirt and debris from outside from getting in. You have the right seals get Er done. Updates?

 

My 98' accord V6 with 266,000 miles leaked oil onto the spark plug, same problem. Tech replaced valve cover gaskets & the entire housing for the cap, a 5 cent rubber seal inside the housing was leaking but of course honda would only sell a new metal housing & not just the seal. Everything fixed & no more leaking oil.

 

I am still dealing with a separate issue. See this link:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/help-sheared-extractor-sheared-bolt-852223/#post13660651

However, the one leaking seal was destroyed. I will try and post a pic. It does not look like it aged. It looks like it was torn apart. This, combined with my two broken cover bolts and the black 'goop' around one of the bolts tells me that the last shop I took it to did not help my cause.

Has anyone replaced these seals before? They are not budging. It seems as if they are glued or sealed in place. I only had a couple of minutes and didn't want to get too destructive without a clear brain. I see nothing in the manual that says these are supposed to be glued or fixed in place. Any feedback is appreciated!

 

Now I can see why the seal was destroyed. When you put the cover back in place you have to be very careful to align the seals with the top of the spark plug tube. Its not super fragile just pay attention and be gentle. I slowly corrected one tube at a time starting from the end.

Also, to remove the old seals I found some snap ring pliers and placed them underneath the hard frame of the seal on the inside of the tube. I then pulled back using the tube itself as leverage and they popped out. Not sure this is the best way as I was worried about scoring the tubes but I didn't notice any damage when I was done.

Lastly, I wouldn't recommend getting the valve gasket set (one cover gasket and five bolt seals). In my case, two of the 10 bolts were sheared and replacements come with the new seals on them. The actual original cover gasket looked and performed as new (it wasn't pinched or degraded at all). Also, I have no idea how you get the new bolt seals on to the old bolts. Perhaps another trick I am missing but I would have saved money just buying the cover gasket and the bolts that I needed.

Thanks again for sending me in the right direction.