mushy brakes?
#1
mushy brakes?
I have to say, i've driven a lot of cars (mostly RWD) and i even had a TSX. But for some reason, on my 5AT TL, the front brakes are reallllllllyyyy mushy and weak. i know its a front wheel drive, so that puts all the pressure on the front, but the TSX didnt feel like that.
weight difference maybe?
my car only has 1000 miles on it, why do they the pads feel worn?
weight difference maybe?
my car only has 1000 miles on it, why do they the pads feel worn?
#2
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
I recently took my TL out for a spirited run on Tuna canyon out here in southern california. It's a very aggressive canyon with a lot of sharp turns and braking needed. Halfway through the run my brakes started loosing grip and were very very weak to the point where I was applying 90% brake force and it was barely even stopping. I also have the 6Mt with the brembo brakes. I know its brake fade, but I was hoping for better performance from a brembo system. I cant imagine how the AT brake feels.
#3
Oh, i wish i had the 6SPD !! Ive been thinking about buying the entire 13" Kit from ebay (out of a salvage) but right now, Acura is gonna take it in and look at it. Its only 4 weeks old and i tell ya, when i hit the brakes with a decent amount of force, the wheels shake and it doesnt stop. feels like either the ABS isnt working properly OR there is something wrong with the Calipers and how they are attached. Im pretty upset about
#4
Aaaarrrggghhhh!
I went to Home Depot 2 nights ago with my neighbor and a freaking deer ran right out in front of me. I slammed on the brakes (I was going pretty fast when this happened) and have never had a car stop so fast. Stopped just short of that big, dopey looking animal.
The brakes were aggressive and did their job well This is the first time I really NEEDED the TL's brakes to impress me... and they did.
My neighbor looked over at me and said "Your f-ing brakes are awesome. I would have run right into it in my Saab" (he has a 9-5).
Yes, I have the 6MT and am glad they have the brakes they do after last night. Otherwise I'd be chewing on a nice fat venison steak and calling my insurance company today.
The brakes were aggressive and did their job well This is the first time I really NEEDED the TL's brakes to impress me... and they did.
My neighbor looked over at me and said "Your f-ing brakes are awesome. I would have run right into it in my Saab" (he has a 9-5).
Yes, I have the 6MT and am glad they have the brakes they do after last night. Otherwise I'd be chewing on a nice fat venison steak and calling my insurance company today.
#5
I had mushy or spongy brakes when my car had only 1000 miles also, so I took it in and it was a bad master cylinder. Does your brake padel travel much lower than it should be?
#6
Instructor
Originally Posted by SilverUA5
I had mushy or spongy brakes when my car had only 1000 miles also, so I took it in and it was a bad master cylinder. Does your brake padel travel much lower than it should be?
#7
One on the right for me
Originally Posted by jayare627
Mine on my 04 6MT travels A LONG WAYS before it engages and then suddenly just engages to the point where the car jerks. I just thought this was normal...but now begining to think differently.
Thats weird. I've never run into that problem with mine. Have you looked at the fluid level?
Trending Topics
#9
One on the right for me
^- I havent had that happen in the TL but I've had that exact thing happen in my old integra. There was an inner seal leak in the master cylinder. Its probably something you want to get checked out
#10
Originally Posted by jayare627
Mine on my 04 6MT travels A LONG WAYS before it engages and then suddenly just engages to the point where the car jerks. I just thought this was normal...but now begining to think differently.
That's how my brakes felt before they changed the master cylinder. Another thing I noticed was the brake lights would come on when my brakes aren't even beginning to grab. I also went as far as using a ruler and measured the brake travel.
#11
yea it definitley feels like a master cylinder problem. pedal is going down WAY to much, and when its done , and i go over bumps, the brakes lose their grip completely and it feels like im sliding in snow... on DRY PAVEMENT !! car is going in tomorrow to acura, its only 4 weeks old, and ive got a lil under 2k on it. Brakes have felt like this since the day i got the car
#12
Originally Posted by BLACKURA_NY
yea it definitley feels like a master cylinder problem. pedal is going down WAY to much, and when its done , and i go over bumps, the brakes lose their grip completely and it feels like im sliding in snow... on DRY PAVEMENT !! car is going in tomorrow to acura, its only 4 weeks old, and ive got a lil under 2k on it. Brakes have felt like this since the day i got the car
Make sure you tell them you know someone has the same problem so they can't just skimmed by bleeding the lines.
#13
So i goto Acura today, and drop it off.... get a call 2 hours later. Master Cylinder is dead. it was D.O.A. (Dead on Arrival) when i got the car. im FURIOUS. brand new $36K car and i got bad brakes already. They are swapping the cylinder, but on other cars of mine (fords), once ya change the master cylinder and bleed the lines a few times, you'll burn through pads so much quicker. So im gonna have 3 days in the shop because it will take 2 days to get me the part. im counting down til 30 days for my lemon law
#14
Now with i-Vtec
Hmm.... Interesting. I have been experiencing the same thing. We bled my breaks and there was air in the lines. It was good for awhile and then all of a sudden it's back. I figured it was just caused by boiling the brake fluid. I picked up some ATE Super Blue and was planning on flushing out the stock fluid with it this week. Damn I really don't wanna take my car to the dealership.
#15
Originally Posted by JDM5lugHatch
Hmm.... Interesting. I have been experiencing the same thing. We bled my breaks and there was air in the lines. It was good for awhile and then all of a sudden it's back. I figured it was just caused by boiling the brake fluid. I picked up some ATE Super Blue and was planning on flushing out the stock fluid with it this week. Damn I really don't wanna take my car to the dealership.
It's safe to say in my situation, the air leak is in the master cylinder and not the lines. Do you also have an '06?
#16
Now with i-Vtec
Originally Posted by SilverUA5
It's safe to say in my situation, the air leak is in the master cylinder and not the lines. Do you also have an '06?
I have an '05. I would be willing to bet this is my problem as well. I hope it's not but damn...... I just don't even feel like taking my car into the dealership. They always seem to do more harm than good. Maybe I will just flush the system with the ATE Super blue and go from there. If I start having that problem again I'll take it in.
#17
I have an 06, and it had this problem since the day i bought it. I thought i was just crazy cause im used to RWD & 4WD. but i had a tsx, and it didnt feel anywhere near as loose as this. The cylinder was causing air in my lines. i would get it checked if u think ur in the same boat as me
#18
Now with i-Vtec
I put new fluid in mine and so far everything is working pretty damn good. I did several hard 60-0mph stops and got absolutely no fade whats-so-ever. I need to drive a bit more to see if it really did cure my problems.
I pretty much did the complete fluid change and then went and test drove the car. That was on thursday evening. Parked it in the garage and I have not driven the car since. So hopefully I can drive it tomorrow (sunday) for awhile to see if the fluid really is the key ingredient to this problem. I have a feeling that the fluid is indeed the problem.
My thoughts are that the fluid is boiling and causing air in the lines. The Auto's are just underbraked for such a large car. Or at least that's how I feel about it. I want to go to stainless lines but they only offer a set for the front. The fluid that I used to flush out the old is ATE Super Blue. This fluid has excellent benefits one being that it has a pretty high boiling point.
I pretty much did the complete fluid change and then went and test drove the car. That was on thursday evening. Parked it in the garage and I have not driven the car since. So hopefully I can drive it tomorrow (sunday) for awhile to see if the fluid really is the key ingredient to this problem. I have a feeling that the fluid is indeed the problem.
My thoughts are that the fluid is boiling and causing air in the lines. The Auto's are just underbraked for such a large car. Or at least that's how I feel about it. I want to go to stainless lines but they only offer a set for the front. The fluid that I used to flush out the old is ATE Super Blue. This fluid has excellent benefits one being that it has a pretty high boiling point.
#19
One on the right for me
Has anyone used the fluid that comptech sells (motul 600)? im going to flush the brake fluid soon and am curious as to what different brands people use.
#20
Now with i-Vtec
Originally Posted by subinf
Has anyone used the fluid that comptech sells (motul 600)? im going to flush the brake fluid soon and am curious as to what different brands people use.
I have heard good stuff about the Motul fluids. However, I have many friends that track their cars and or auto-x them and practically every single one of them swears by ATE's brake fluid. I'm sure either way you can't go wrong. Here is a link to some different fluids (actually from the place I got my fluid from) and they list all the different characteristics of each http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/home.asp?categ=68. One thing that's also nice about the ATE Super Blue is that it makes the bleeding process really easy to see the fluid swap from stock's yellow/gold to the ATE's blue.
#21
Originally Posted by JDM5lugHatch
I have heard good stuff about the Motul fluids. However, I have many friends that track their cars and or auto-x them and practically every single one of them swears by ATE's brake fluid. I'm sure either way you can't go wrong. Here is a link to some different fluids (actually from the place I got my fluid from) and they list all the different characteristics of each http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/home.asp?categ=68. One thing that's also nice about the ATE Super Blue is that it makes the bleeding process really easy to see the fluid swap from stock's yellow/gold to the ATE's blue.
Can you update us later when you drive your car for a few days? Mine was fixed for a whole 2 days and the problem presist again.
#22
Now with i-Vtec
Originally Posted by SilverUA5
Can you update us later when you drive your car for a few days? Mine was fixed for a whole 2 days and the problem presist again.
Drove the car for awhile today and it still seems pretty good. But, I wanna give it a few more days before I say it's definitely fixed.
#24
Racer
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New York City.
Age: 39
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow...this is some weird shit... maybe I'm also experiencing the same problem. I have noticed that I need to apply more pressure to the brakes than when I first got the car (I got it at 43,000 miles, It's now at 61,000). When I come to a complete stop, my brake pedal slowly relaxes itself to the floor, even if it required 50% pedal to floor travel distance to stop the car.. Is this normal?
I also experience the sliding effect when I go over a bump. The car feels like it lost complete grip for a split second. Since this is my first real car, I don't have experience how cars should brake/work in general. I do catch pumping the car to a stop sometimes when I am predicting I have to stop at like a a quarter mile and I'm doing say 65-70mph. I think my driving style has gotten used to this type of braking.
I won't be driving my car next week since I'll be going to another office for work. I will get it checked out.
I also experience the sliding effect when I go over a bump. The car feels like it lost complete grip for a split second. Since this is my first real car, I don't have experience how cars should brake/work in general. I do catch pumping the car to a stop sometimes when I am predicting I have to stop at like a a quarter mile and I'm doing say 65-70mph. I think my driving style has gotten used to this type of braking.
I won't be driving my car next week since I'll be going to another office for work. I will get it checked out.
#25
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (5)
if you are under warranty take it to Acura immediately... most likely it is a faulty VSA/ABS unit which has been pumping air into your master cylinder... like blackura, i also had the same prob at the beginning of this year... the pedal would basically go almost to the floor and i would have to pump it a few times to build braking pressure...
if you are outta warranty, find a reputable shop to diagnose it... if you don't know one i can refer you to my personal mechanic in NNJ... it is dangerous to drive like that, and your master cylinder can fail at any time...
if you are outta warranty, find a reputable shop to diagnose it... if you don't know one i can refer you to my personal mechanic in NNJ... it is dangerous to drive like that, and your master cylinder can fail at any time...
#26
Racer
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New York City.
Age: 39
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if you are under warranty take it to Acura immediately... most likely it is a faulty VSA/ABS unit which has been pumping air into your master cylinder... like blackura, i also had the same prob at the beginning of this year... the pedal would basically go almost to the floor and i would have to pump it a few times to build braking pressure...
if you are outta warranty, find a reputable shop to diagnose it... if you don't know one i can refer you to my personal mechanic in NNJ... it is dangerous to drive like that, and your master cylinder can fail at any time...
if you are outta warranty, find a reputable shop to diagnose it... if you don't know one i can refer you to my personal mechanic in NNJ... it is dangerous to drive like that, and your master cylinder can fail at any time...
I will take it in this saturday... Do you think it just needs the brake fluid replaced? How can I tell this? Will it be black or something?
Thanks.
I have 3rd party warranty (Guardian). I believe my brake system is covered. I am also in NYC. No way I can drop th car in nnj
#28
if you are under warranty take it to Acura immediately... most likely it is a faulty VSA/ABS unit which has been pumping air into your master cylinder... like blackura, i also had the same prob at the beginning of this year... the pedal would basically go almost to the floor and i would have to pump it a few times to build braking pressure...
if you are outta warranty, find a reputable shop to diagnose it... if you don't know one i can refer you to my personal mechanic in NNJ... it is dangerous to drive like that, and your master cylinder can fail at any time...
if you are outta warranty, find a reputable shop to diagnose it... if you don't know one i can refer you to my personal mechanic in NNJ... it is dangerous to drive like that, and your master cylinder can fail at any time...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GWEEDOspeedo
Car Parts for Sale
4
01-15-2016 10:39 PM
lanechanger
Member Cars for Sale
4
10-13-2015 10:56 AM