I believe it is a locking nut, came with BJ from NAPA store: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCZ2601791

 

Sounds like you need to take it back and have them fix it.. I really hate shady mechanics...

 

Not that easy. The work was done in Kelso, WA on Sept 06, 2017, more than 1,000 miles away, while I was living close by. I'm in Irvine, CA now . . . I'm talking to the service writer there, texted him above pictures, awaiting for his response. I still think he's a descent guy, but the mech who did the actual work should be relieved, IMO.

 

Ouch bummer.. They might tell you to just pound sand but then you may be able to get some relief from your credit card company (provided you paid with one). Definitely don't let them get away with that.

 

Of course I paid with credit card, I do have receipts from NAPA as well as from the repair shop. If they refuse to refund me the labor plus the cost of new BJ, I'll put the photos above on their Google, Yelp reviews. I'll also file a formal complaint with WA state Beaureau of Automotive Repair or sort for this scam. It's not a lot of money for them, I'm sure they'll come clean.

 

Try an OEM BJ next time. You'll want that castle nut and cotter pin..

 

The vibration is significantly harsher with polyurethane mounts.

I once had polyurethane mounts on the front, side and rear of the engine and my girlfriend compered sitting in the passenger seat to using her rabbit. It was especially bad when the A/C was on. I eventually got tired of it and now only use 1 poly mount on the front; stock all around for the rest.

 

I got 88k on my 08 type s, I bought the pas side and front mounts to change, did the pass side first, total cake job, and didn't really need to as the original mount was still good. Now the front mount was completely destroyed. The youtube post on this thread is pretty dead on to replace the front mount, however I have a few suggestions you may want to consider as well. First of all, the vacuum line on the bottom of the mount is going to be the biggest pain in the ass. Mine was seized onto the old mount so I had to cut it to get it off, however, I was unaware that you could access the vacuum line from under the vehicle. My suggestion is to get that line removed first!!!! You can access it via a rectangular shaped opening on the underbody plastic moulding in the front of the engine, I suggest you disconnect it from where it connects to the metal vacuum line that is anchored to the subframe. Then once you get the mount out, use pliers to break it loose from the old mount. Do not cut it like I did cause then you wont have enough hose to get it back on to fit properly. Also, not mentioned in the DIY video is taking the mounting bracket off of the car to ease removal and installation of the mount, it is 3 bolts to remove the silver bracket from the engine itself, I highly recommend you remove this as well to make your job just a tad easier. I just replaced mine last week so it is still fresh in my mind, any questions, feel free to hit me up. Good luck!

 

As it turned out, the noise was coming from worn "sway bar end link" on front driver side. Replaced end links & sway bar bushings for both sides, TL is running quietly.
The ball joint issue is still not resolved, waiting for the shop's offer. With photos of damaged BJ, they're not denying what they did but still undecided. Stay tuned.

 

 

How do I relieve the mounts before tightening the bolts? TIA, Sam

 

rabbit?? lolol! ok, that's too much for my comfort then. was acceleration improved with just the one urethane mount on the front? like, did the wheels stay planted? i'm basically trying to eliminate wheel hop upon acceleration.. i really hate that...

 

did you get this done at the dealer? how much did it run you? i feel a slight thump coming from the front end or wheels whenever i go over bumps... i'm wondering if i have the same problem (i'm at 175k miles)

 

Great thread with good info. Have 145k on my automatic TL-S. original mounts. Need to visual inspect them but I have a feeling they are out. Wheels have no play in them. Swaybar links have no play balljoints are original and look fine. i hear its a good idea to replace the transmission mount as well. If you don't replace that mount and just replace the others, then your new mounts will fail much quicker. Just going to get the roackauto complete kit which is around $150 shipped. Has all the mounts. I am sure it will do fine. I don't race or drive this car like a crazy kid.

 

I replaced all engine mounts and transmission mounts but my tl has 349xxxkms. I went oem for the. All and it was about $1300. You need to place a block of wood on your jack under the oil pan to l
gently lift the engine to take the weight off the mounts. Be careful while lifting as you don't want to crush anything. The rear transmission .ount was the most challenging as you either need to drop the sub frame or grind down. The threaded bolts on the mount to fit into place. Do this rear mount while the front mounts are off to give you more room. Grind off the ends of the transmission mount bolts so it can fit in place. It's tricky but do able. Only when I removed the mount it came out on an angle and sheared the last thread of the insert going into the transmission. Had to customize a tap to re tap the hole. All new mounts made the care feel amazing and with going with oem so I don't have to do it again for awhile. Good luck and YouTube has a few videos showing the process any questions just ask and I'll help anyway I can.

 

I don't plan to change out the rear mount I hear they don't really go out on these cars , but yours had a ton of mileage on it. There is a very good local mobile mechanic that is cheap I'll probably just use him. We will see.