Locked engine won't crank-HELP!!!
#41
Hey Bear - do you know which thread talks about the different motor oils in context of protection etc...? Seems to be scattered with IHC and those guys chiming in here and there.
Such a touch subject - everyone swears by some brand or weight. But from all the reading and some "studies" that I've read it's down to change your oil and filter every 3K and you're set (for normal driving).
Such a touch subject - everyone swears by some brand or weight. But from all the reading and some "studies" that I've read it's down to change your oil and filter every 3K and you're set (for normal driving).
#42
You and compliance bushings Luc. Did you get yours fixed yet? It'll be much more stable on the highway. Mine used to randomly go left and right at 75+. I wish I found the Drew dude. Acura Libertyville took me to town for $600 bucks (3 on each arm). Machine shop was $100 bucks to remove and press new ones in. One problem I am having now is that my brand new Continental DWS are cupping Not sure if it was the 3-4K on the crappy broken bushings that caused it or if new ones were put in incorrectly.
BTW-check out the new site I am helping Drew with www.nnstudios.com/thepitshop_devdeploy/ That's how much I am standing by this guy.
BTW-check out the new site I am helping Drew with www.nnstudios.com/thepitshop_devdeploy/ That's how much I am standing by this guy.
Ill check out the site when I get home, its blocked at work....
I have 5W-30 in my engine as well (only cause they were out of 5W-20 when I got the oil changed), was just wondering why the OP chose that? Maybe ill stick with 5W-30 from now on?
#44
Google "HTHS". You might be able to find some info on HTHS vs protection. HTHS usually follows the viscosity so a 5w-30 will have a higher HTHS than a 5w-20 with some exceptions. Look for the GM test on the 3800 with low HTHS vs high HTHS. One had 1/5 the wear as the other. I can talk all day about my teardown results but apparently unless it's on a website that looks professional even if the writer is full of shit, it's not believable. Most of the "studies" are peoples opinions posted as fact. I know one of the design engineers for Ford's modular engine program and you don't want to know the findings of a 20wt vs 30wt under the same conditions. 20wt is acceptable, 30wt will give more protection. You will find very few official statements of 20wt vs 30 or 40wt because no professional is going to risk their job for that kind of statement. You have to get under the radar with HTHS to find any results.
Also, thanks for all the posts on ATF. Doing my fourth drain soon and going to do 2 quarts of Racing. Which Redline Racing ATF again? The light weight or full racing?
Looking at the OP's post/pictures it seems like the previous owner didn't do a very good job maintaining it. The engine just looks bad. Sad since the car still looks relatively nice on the exterior.
#45
I know.....I am finally getting these fuckers replaced tomorrow....nice and early at 8am. I think he quoted me like 300 out the door to press in the new ones. Then I gotta take it to get an alignment, I am hoping Firestone will give me the lifetime deal but I have heard they don't do lowered cars? Maybe I can convinced them im not that low, which is true sortof.....
Ill check out the site when I get home, its blocked at work....
I have 5W-30 in my engine as well (only cause they were out of 5W-20 when I got the oil changed), was just wondering why the OP chose that? Maybe ill stick with 5W-30 from now on?
Ill check out the site when I get home, its blocked at work....
I have 5W-30 in my engine as well (only cause they were out of 5W-20 when I got the oil changed), was just wondering why the OP chose that? Maybe ill stick with 5W-30 from now on?
Drew recommends the alignment at Sears Gurnee. There's an older guy there named "Tom". Apparently he knows what he's doing and gets it done right versus just putting you in the "green". I also learned that on the TLs you can only adjust the camber and not the toe or caster. Not sure how accurate that is. Maybe you need special Honda tools to change those 2 adjustments.
My domain was apparently used by some dude for porno or something. I hate how it gets blocked by corporate firewalls. I had to add another domain - http://www.nhannguyenphotography.com...shop_devdeploy
When you get a chance - write a Yelp review for him as well. I am going to link to it.
#46
I will write one tomorrow. I am getting my alignment done at Firestone since I am tired of paying 80 dollars everytime I need an alignment and this way I can lower my suspension at my leisure and then get everything back in "spec." Our cars only have adjustable toe, not camber or caster. You wont need a camber or caster tweak unless you are lowered, like I am. Thats why I have an Ingalls Camber/Caster kit in the rear to allow them to adjust it. My camber is like .5 degrees off in the front, which should not affect anything really. The lower you go, the more your camber/caster is thrown off. I thnk its you drop below 2 inches chances are you will need a front camber/caster kit as well, but driving around Chicago that low would be detrimental for your suspension and more important, my ass....I already have been airborn in my car driving over dips on 294....chicago roads are :ghey:
Website looks good, much better than the one he currently has.....I really feel like shops with reputable/professional websites tend to get more business. I usually refuse to go to places that dont have websites with information on them, especially nowadays.
Website looks good, much better than the one he currently has.....I really feel like shops with reputable/professional websites tend to get more business. I usually refuse to go to places that dont have websites with information on them, especially nowadays.
Last edited by lucnex; 07-22-2011 at 03:29 PM.
#47
#48
#55
Hey Bear - do you know which thread talks about the different motor oils in context of protection etc...? Seems to be scattered with IHC and those guys chiming in here and there.
Such a touch subject - everyone swears by some brand or weight. But from all the reading and some "studies" that I've read it's down to change your oil and filter every 3K and you're set (for normal driving).
Such a touch subject - everyone swears by some brand or weight. But from all the reading and some "studies" that I've read it's down to change your oil and filter every 3K and you're set (for normal driving).
#56
#57
wait, your supposed to change the oil every 3k? I dont think I have changed it since I got the car in 2007, I thought it was part of the 60K maintenance?!?!?!?!?!
Yea and why wait 7K miles when it costs all of 30 dollars to change it. Rather be safe than sorry
Yea and why wait 7K miles when it costs all of 30 dollars to change it. Rather be safe than sorry
#58
Let's let the oil discussion go so the OP can have his thread back.
There are other "Whats the best oil" and "Whats the best filter" threads if anyone still has questions.
There are other "Whats the best oil" and "Whats the best filter" threads if anyone still has questions.
#59
I'm running those 75a mounts and yes with the AC on it vibrates pretty good. I rarely use the AC but when I do I keep the Rpms at 1000 at lights to keep from damaging anything in the dash. No AC at idle it's noticeable but not much, I like the more raw less disconnected feel of the stiffer mounts. I am a little biased towards performance, but I think you will like the benefits of less engine movement.
#60
ok, so finally i have the engine in the car and after a few cranks it started and is working perfectly, i still havent had a chance to drive the car i just finished about 1 hour ago and didnt have time to install the steering componets, i dont even have the engine light on, the only problem so far is that when i accelerate it (with the car in neutral) the "RELEASE PARK BRAKE" come on. what can be causing this?
And also the vsa triangle will come up if i leave it past 4k rpm for about 2 secs.
And also the vsa triangle will come up if i leave it past 4k rpm for about 2 secs.
#61
Do you even understand the willpower it took to stay out of that discussion lol. I should get an award for self control.
#63
It sounds like the ECU thinks the car is moving when it is not.
I have a feeling the problem will become more obvious once you drive it. Is there any reason the axles could be freewheeling without driving the wheels? Maybe they're not all the way in the trans?
I have a feeling the problem will become more obvious once you drive it. Is there any reason the axles could be freewheeling without driving the wheels? Maybe they're not all the way in the trans?
#65
its been almost a week since i started the engine its running pretty hard and strong heres a video, sorry for the quality i was taking the video with one hand and trying to hold the steering wheel and shifting at the same time, but just so you guys have an idea
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6MWTnrwOZbk?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6MWTnrwOZbk?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
#68
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