josiel

Two days ago my car started miss firing I checked all sparkplugs, ignition coils and everything was fine so I went on with a compression check and one of the cylinders came up with 0psi, I called a few friends and they all said it was probably a clogged valve so I did the seafoam treatment but nothing happened, yesterday night as I was heading home it started miss firing more until it turned off I tried to start it and it would crank but not start, after a few times of trying it started but I couldn't let it drop under 2k or it would turn of I drove about 5 miles like that until I heard a big clanking noise and the car shut off and now it won't even crank the engine is locked, this morning I removed the 3 front spark plugs 2 of them were filled with oil and one was all torn up then I removed the intake manifold and it was filled with oil mixed with water and had a few pieces of metal in it, let me know what you guys think I really need help on this to decide what to do. Sorry for spelling I'm writing on my phone please help!!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

over-rev.

jda123

So many things could be wrong

Could be a broken cam, valve, value spring, piston, piston ring, cracked head, etc... or a combo of any of them. No way to know until you get in there.

You are going to need to take off the valve cover and have a look at the cam, springs and valve stems and inspect the head from the top end. If that all looks fine, then the head is going to need to come off, but it is probably going to need to come off anyway.

Unless you are under warranty, then this is not going to be cheap. Sorry.

josiel

I've never over reved it but don't know of the previous owner did?? ill be removing the heads this afternoon see what's wrong, is there any chance it went off timing, and if there's any bent rods or cracked piston what do you guys recommend getting a new engine or rebuild this one

jda123

You need to see what it wrong first. There is no way to know yet.

josiel

I'll keep you guys posted after I remove the heads, thanks

josiel

Anyone else have any thoughts?

josiel

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Things are way worse than i thought, its time for a new engine

josiel

please give me ideas on what to do thanks

I hate cars

You threw a rod. Notice the missing piston lol. Engine is junk. Replace entire engine. If you're lucky you can reuse the heads after rebuilding and resurfacing.

You drove the car around with 0psi on one cylinder, what did you think would happen? There's no such thing as a "clogged valve".

You've got part of an oil ring sitting on the head, a piece of wristpin and rod and 1/4 of the piston ring land area sitting on the crank. There's most likely a hole in the block where part of the rod exited but maybe not since the top of the rod is still inside of the engine. Just the fact that the piston top and top of the rod are sitting on the crank, you might've broken the crank too.

I hate cars

If it's locked up it would be all of those broken pieces wedged between the block and the crank. Highly unlikely anything is usable. After seeing the huge gash in the head, it's not usable either. More than likely you dropped that valve into the combustion chamber, kept driving until it destroyed the piston which let the rod self destruct.

josiel

tomorrow ill be bringing down the engine i found a j32a3 in a local junkyard with 65k theyre asking $900 for it, i havent seen it yet but i will come by the place tomorrow and take a look at it. what do you think? is it worth repairing? most of the valve was inside the intake manifold

I hate cars

I would get the junkyard engine for $900 as long as it's good.

For a rebuild you're looking at:

At least one replacement fully dressed head.
At least one piston, pin, and ring set.
At least one rod.
Gaskets and misc along with machine work and labor which is extensive.


That's the absolute best case scenario. Most likely you will need a new block and about 50/50% chance of a new crank depending on whether or not the big end of the rod held together. There's also the chance that everything exited through the oil pan.

josiel

i guess my best choice is to go with a new engine. im pretty sure any engine i find came of a AT Tl would i have to change the wiring on the engine

josiel

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my yard looks like a junkyard lol. so i went and bought this engine it came off a totaled 04 tl it has about 65k on it and 90 day warranty what do you guys think?

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

You know with 0 psi you should have heard "some" metallic noise before the engine gave out. Either way with the new engine you should do the timing belt with water pump and tensioner while it's still out of the vehicle. T-belts due every 6 years or 105k.

josiel

im also going ahead to order new engine mounts (still deciding which to go with) while i wait for them to arrive ill be doing a full service to this engine to make sure nothing goes wrong once it starts

josiel

so today i got the engine out i spent about 8 hours to remove it, tomorrow ill be putting the MT wiring and will be swapping the transmission

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josiel

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justnspace

iTrader: (1)

COOOOL!

looks like a fun project!

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Man, with that much damage, the engine had to be singing like a dude that was just kicked in the nads.

Looking at these pictures has made me so happy I now have a lift. It's going to be so much easier to do my clutch swap.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Keep us updated!

Nice find on the new engine =)

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

hydrolocked?

josiel

im guessing it had to be hydrolocked, because what else can cause a damage like this when everything was working perfectly. The missfiring started one day when i turned it on in the morning and from there 4 days later this happens, but it has been raining alot these days, if it were hydrolock wouldnt it happen instantly?

I hate cars

If it hydrolocked bad enough to cause that you would have known it. It would require a puddle and it would have killed the engine. Besides, hydrolock doesn't explain the broken intake valve.

It might have dropped a valve down into the cylinder which would give you 0 compression then you kept on driving and it broke the piston which let everything loose.

Or detonation. Do you run premium?

Honestly you can see what looks like the imprint of an intake valve and seat in the head. It really looks like you hurt the valve first and the valve took out the piston. Anytime you have 0psi and no noise it's almost for sure valvetrain related. It's hard to get 0psi with a damaged piston unless it has a hole in it which usually makes noise. You can break a ring and ring land and compression will be very low but usually not at 0.

josiel

yes i always run premium, i think the problem was what your saying a broken valve that fell into the cylinder and i kept driving the car and thats what caused the piston to break and lock the engine

SCS15

iTrader: (3)

Wow man that absolutely sucks to have happened but atleast you got a pretty good deal on the new engine. good luck with the swap.

jda123

You are fortunate to have the time, inclination and ability to do this swap, otherwise you could be looking at 3-5K, or more.

My guess is that the an over-rev from the past did some damage and only recently broke all the way. I guess that it could have been a zero clearance valve issue with perhaps a broken timing belt in the past. In any case, this is perfect evidence that issues can arise down the road when metal gets with metal. Anybody who broke a timing belt and did not pull the head to have it fixed/checked, this could be in your future.

Could have been poorly adjusted valves too.

lucnex

iTrader: (3)

how to heck did you get your car so high on those jackstands?!

Also looks like your compliance bushings on your LCAs are torn....may as well replace those while you have the entire car apart practically...

MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Could have told you that on your second post about...lol. Good luck man...that sucks!

josiel

how to heck did you get your car so high on those jackstands?!

i actually lifted the car with the crane to take the engine out through the bottom

josiel

yesterday i went by P2R and got a set of ported runners and ordered a motor mount kit from innovative they'll arrive tomorrow thats all i need to mount the engine

Majofo

yeah.. I think I see your problem.

Keep us updated.

josiel

well now i need a new clutch mine is kinda wasted it has 100k on it, i ordered the one from p2r what do you guys think

josiel

here are some pics of the runners my kinda worn clutch and the oil ill be using with new plugs

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MichaelBenz

iTrader: (2)

Did you just seriously post a pic of oil, plugs, and an oil filter on the internet? Good to know you will be using those things...lol.

lucnex

iTrader: (3)

hmmm why 5W-30 over 5W-20? Engine doesnt have too many miles on it...

Bearcat94

I prefer 5W-30 as well.

I like the idea of a slightly heavier film. I also subscribe the "5W-20 is for CAFE" theory.

EagleEye

You and compliance bushings Luc. Did you get yours fixed yet? It'll be much more stable on the highway. Mine used to randomly go left and right at 75+. I wish I found the Drew dude. Acura Libertyville took me to town for $600 bucks (3 on each arm). Machine shop was $100 bucks to remove and press new ones in. One problem I am having now is that my brand new Continental DWS are cupping Not sure if it was the 3-4K on the crappy broken bushings that caused it or if new ones were put in incorrectly.

BTW-check out the new site I am helping Drew with www.nnstudios.com/thepitshop_devdeploy/ That's how much I am standing by this guy.

EagleEye

Hey Bear - do you know which thread talks about the different motor oils in context of protection etc...? Seems to be scattered with IHC and those guys chiming in here and there.

Such a touch subject - everyone swears by some brand or weight. But from all the reading and some "studies" that I've read it's down to change your oil and filter every 3K and you're set (for normal driving).