My jpipe exploded while I was driving. Figured its due to the constant scraping with the car being lowered. Managed to drive back home and thinking to replace it but now I notice some thick green fluid near the passenger axle. Anyone have any idea what it could be and how serious it is? Front seat belts doesnt retract either.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Ouch.

That thick green fluid.. looks like emulsified oil.

You have an A/T or M/T?

Check your oil, does it look like that on your dipstick?

Are you low?

If you're M/T does your M/T fluid look like that?

 

Its an Auto. I'll check tomorrow morning for fluid levels under the hood. Have a feeling its CV boot/joint related.

 

Hopefully thats all it is.

I don't think the CV's grease would leak out like that though.

If it is, should check out Raxles since you have an AT.

I just changed out my driver's side axle today and feels way better now. I did a little more too though, cut down the bump stop on my tein SS's and changed the damping setting on them.

I still need to do my passenger's side and intermediate shaft, I have them sitting in some boxes in my room now. Will have to wait until next week.

 

Hmm can't tell from pic. Is that the xlr8 v1 jpipe?

 

Probably CV joint grease that certainly thinned down when contacting the hot exhaust.

 

Exactly.

 

^Cv joint grease.

Although,this doesn't really explain why your seatbelt doesn't retract? did you hit something?

 

exploded!?

more like it was hit.
what did you hit?
and would also explain the seat belt not retracting

 

It is CV Grease.
And just have the flex pipe replaced. It would be cheap at a muffler shop. No big deal at all.

 

^yeah...that's all that is wrong with the jpipe.

the flex portion...

 

maybe he can't see the pictures.

OP, you definitely hit something.C'mon,tell us the truth. lol

 

^of course he can. he's logged in and posting.

 

If that was a stock jpipe then swap it out for a ATLP/Rv6/xlr8...it will give you more ground clearance (you need it!) + fix the CV and call it lesson learned. Btw, seeing how bald the inside of your tire is, my money is on that exploding next.

 

I really dont know what I hit, thought it was one of my tires but its not. My car does get beat up 1-2 times a week because the parking lot under my work place is very steep. It got so damaged over time it blew up I guess.

The seat belts tensioner tightened and doesnt retrack anymore. Kinda like airbags being one time use?

 

I couldnt see the pictures on my phone smart ass. haha.

Looks like you hit something hard and now your seat belt pre tensioner is locked... sounds like a collision to me. And you will have to replace the whole seatbelt.

 

is your SRS light on? You must have hit something hard enough for the SRS system to trip the sensors and lock up the seatbelts. I see it happen all the time,even in "minor" collisions. But, SRS unit,sensors,and any deployed pre-tensioners(seatbelts) must be replaced in a case like that.

 

^Looks like we have a fellow claims adjuster^

 

yes.Licensed and Certified.

But,seriously OP, you definitely want to get that checked out. You won't pass inspection,not to mention your safety.

 

Ordered the atlp jpipe+race pipe last night with 2-3 day shipping. Hopefully it'll arrive by friday for me to install it this weekend. Then get the cv joint checked out. I called marty from raxles and he said it can be disassemble and reapply the leaked grease.

Seat belts im still trying to figure out to replace it or have it rebuilt. Rebuilt is about $50 each.

 

Just keep your eye on that cv boot and make sure there's still grease in there...you've been threw enough.

 

Jpipe is fixed. When the stock Jpipe got caught it shifted everything back, including the mounting points to the precat(i think thats what they're called). Knocked my cv joint too so thats why theres grease on the subframe. Next fix will be seat belt which I ordered already, then replace the cv joints.


Can see how the Jpipe is shifted downwards.






Had to cut and weld the ATLP in order for it to fit.. Paid the shop $150, and tipped the mech $60. Thought my car was salvaged when I couldnt diy this and thought about buying another car lol

 

wait, whats in the way of the jpipe?

 

Subframe was in the way when I tried to DIY the ATLP jpipe. Couldnt fit any ratchet/socket into the nut.

The mech got the old pipe off, but the middle section doesnt line up for a direct bolt on so he had to cut the pipe and extend it.

 

How does the top end of your rear precat look? Not damaged? Rear cylinder head studs ok? (where the pcat bolts up)

Your splash guard is also going to melt to that j-pipe if you don't trim it back.

 

you may have damaged the rear precat if its knocked hard enough to not align with jpipe

 

wow.... you did that to a new j-pipe ?

 

i think he has more serious problems than a knocked pre-cat...

 

man,you should have just put in a claim. What did you hit?!

 

whatever is in the way of the jpipe got hit hard.
sadly; OP will have problems with the car if he does not get that corrected.

 

I cant believe you didnt replace the pre cat but instead cut up a J-Pipe. If you would have filed a claim you would have gotten enough to replace the J-pipe, pre cats, and fix your seat belt. Maybe would have even had extra to spend. The OEM parts are expensive and even if the adjuster would have wrote for Aftermarket you would have had enough to replace all those parts with preformance parts. If you ever have a problem with that pre cat, you may have to buy another J-Pipe or hack it up again.

And I think the title of this thread is all wrong. It should be something like "I crushed the F out of my J-Pipe when I hit something!"

 

the precat looks to be in the correct place.

something is in the way of the jpipe.
he said its the subframe, but i dont think soo.

 

I read that as well, but if that pipe took a hard enough impact to set off the seat belt there is no way that pre cat is in the same spot. Those J-Pipes have little to no play when it comes to lining up.

 

i would seriously,seriously consider filing a claim. And have it properly inspected before something else gets screwed up.

The SRS light alone being on would have scared me a little.

Here,let me inspire some fear in ya:
The picture attached states that when a pre-tensioner deploys (ie: your seatbelt). You need to replace the deployed tensioners,SRS unit,+ crash sensors. That's costly enough. Not to mention,you probably don't have the HDS to clear the SRS light,and make sure everything is in working order.

 

Also, can i just ask if the fact of cutting up a brand new..? J pipe didn't bother you at ALL? I can't wrap my head around this.

 

Completely agree. It is bothering me still!

PS Nice shot showing what all needs to be replaced. Is that CCC One?

 

Being lowered, would an insurance company even consider paying a claim?

 

It is CCC One (down in the taskbar), I love this system. It's the only one I've used since i started apprasing,but since i'm so used to catalogs already from working at the dealer,it's an easy program to get used to.
As for where the SRS deployment checklist came from, thats the Acura Interactive Network. It's basically an online service manual/bulletin info/flat rate time/everything you need to know for any acura. lol

I wouldn't see why not. They're not the dealer,they can't really deny any claim unless it's a "Prior Damage". You put in the claim,they pay. Either way, YOU're the one getting surcharged. lol.

 

Of course the insurance company would pay. Ether way it is an at fault loss because you hit something but there is no reason an insurance company could deny a claim because of ride hight unless it is strickly named in the policy.

 

I likes CCC one as well. I have used Auditex, CCC/Pathways, and Mitchell. I personally find Mitchell the easiest to use but its been a while since I used another.