nfnsquared

That's a darn good idea!!! and the price is right

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, this job has pretty much had anything that possibly go wrong with it, and then some more.

I would've been done in about 6 hours too except for that damn tensioner bolt that broke. Oddly enough I initially got the crank bolt off quite easy. I wedged a 22in breaker bar against a piece of wood with a 19mm deep socket. Then I rested three strong as hell SK extensions on a jackstand parallel with the ground. Then I used my SK breaker bar (that again is strong as hell), and put a 6ft black iron cheater bar over the SK breaker all the way down, and it came off much easier than I was expecting.

When I took my axle nuts off I used a Snap-on breaker with the cheater, and the Snap-on literally snapped. Which sent my falling backwards onto the wheel and tire cracking 3 ribs and messing up my left shoulder worse than it already was. Those SK tools are probably 40+ years old. My grandfather bought them new, and I have to say they are the strongest tools I've ever used. Oh, one other thing that's pretty cool is the breaker bar has a 1/2" inlet so it can also be used as an extension.

You're right that's great idea that I just tried, but I found out my cheap HF zip ties are quite weak. I put 4 zip ties on each cam sprocket and two above the crank sprocket. Every single one broke apart. Guess I'll have my sis or bro-in-law stop at Lowe's and pick up some heavier duty ones.

closetprisoner

a little loss.. so when you release the tensioner pin, the belt jump? or was it already off when release the tensioner?

I use the binder clip to hold it in place before release the tensioner and it work out fine.

http://www.pachd.com/free-images/hou...er-clip-01.jpg

I've use this for turning the cam before when it skip.

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_14834.jpg

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Neither, the belt jumped when I was trying to loosen the crank bolt while my bro-in law had a breaker on the front cam sprocket. He said he could see the crank sprocket turning while the belt stayed stationary. So, I'm sure some of the teeth on the belt are chewed up pretty bad.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Well, I finally found a place that would rent me an impact wrench. They let me rent a 345ft/lbs Milwaukee 3/4" drive corded impact. Plus, I got the strongest zip ties I could get (180lbs breaking strength).

I also had an idea pop in my head earlier. Since I'm getting a new belt anyway, I was thinking I could put a c clamp on the belt and the back side of the tensioner to be tighten the clamp so I can get the pin back into the tensioner.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to thank ez12a for that zip tie idea. I put two on each cam sprocket, two right above the crank sprocket, and hit it with the impact for 10 seconds or so and it came right out. That SOB had to really have been in there good. Because, hitting it with a 345ft/lb impact for 10 seconds, seems a little long for me.

Now, I have to wait till tomorrow for the new timing belt, and then hopefully Saturday the vtec solenoid will arrive. Then I'll FINALLY be able to finish this job that should have taken only 6hrs or so.

I do have one other question though. The pulleys that the belt rolls around have started to get just a bit of surface rust from the overnight condensation. I mean it's super light rust I can't even feel it, and if I rub on it hard with my finger it'll come off. So, I was wondering if it'd be alright to leave them like that or try to get the rust off first?

ez12a

glad you got it figured out!

I would get a magic eraser or something to get that rust off.

though with enough use with the drive belt i'm sure it would be fine too.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again,

I honestly don't think I would've been able to get that bolt out without that zip tie idea. I think I will get use something to get the surface rust off.

For whatever reason I thought yesterday was Thursday, but obviously it wasn't. So, the timing belt will arrive today, but now I have to wait until Monday for the solenoid.

I'm getting so sick of looking at my car on jack stands. My friends and family keep joking with me how I should just push it in the pond next to my car park, or how it'd make a good planter.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if any of you guys really care, but I finally got everything back together. In hindsight I wouldn't even have changed the timing belt because I couldn't even tell the difference between the old and new ones. Also, all the pulleys and the tensioner looked fine, but I figured my cars an 04 so it's 9 years old it's better to be safe than sorry and change it. Plus my friends gf's vw gli the water pump bearing froze up and snapped the timing belt bending 10 valves in the process, and that only had 50k miles on it.

I just want to thank everyone of you guys for your suggestions and help. That's what makes Acurazine.com such an awesome sight.

ez12a

Glad you got everything sorted out!

It's tough and definitely a gamble doing this job yourself. Lessons learned, should you ever attempt it again.

I might be doing this again, helping my friend who helped me on his 2007 RL in the next year or two.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, it really wasn't that difficult other than my friend breaking that bolt, and then my getting the crank bolt stuck, and then breaking the vtec solenoid relay.

I'm almost embarrassed to say what I did today. I but the cp on before the timing cover. So, I had to take that back off after tightening it. Then I forgot to put the motor mount piece that attaches to the engine so I had to take the cp off again. All in all I ended up tightening the cp bolt 3 times I should have just brought my shop manual out with me, but "oh no" I know what I'm doing.