Ignition switch or starter or relay?
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
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Ignition switch or starter or relay?
For the past year I have had an issue when starting..
If I just turn the key normally it wouldn't start. I would have to "flick" it over, very quickly to get the starter to go. Seemed to me very much like an ignition switch that just was very finicky?
Finally it has crapped out completely. Cannot get it go at all. I hear what sounds like the fuel pump, and at start position I think I hear the relay click. Does that mean that the problem is elsewhere?
I have seen a video that shows the replacement procedure for the steering lock/ignition switch. Looks to be a little bit of a pain in the ass. But doable. But I saw somewhere say it can be done for $40.00 and is easy. Can I just replace the backside of the lock?
Can I use a used ignition switch with key and program it's key to work with my immobilizer?
Sorry for the long post, it's just cold and shitty out and I can't get the damn car in the garage. All I have to drive in the snow is my old porsche 928 and it don't like snow at all!
If I just turn the key normally it wouldn't start. I would have to "flick" it over, very quickly to get the starter to go. Seemed to me very much like an ignition switch that just was very finicky?
Finally it has crapped out completely. Cannot get it go at all. I hear what sounds like the fuel pump, and at start position I think I hear the relay click. Does that mean that the problem is elsewhere?
I have seen a video that shows the replacement procedure for the steering lock/ignition switch. Looks to be a little bit of a pain in the ass. But doable. But I saw somewhere say it can be done for $40.00 and is easy. Can I just replace the backside of the lock?
Can I use a used ignition switch with key and program it's key to work with my immobilizer?
Sorry for the long post, it's just cold and shitty out and I can't get the damn car in the garage. All I have to drive in the snow is my old porsche 928 and it don't like snow at all!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: MAGA country
The "ignition switch" is not where the key goes. It's another piece on the underside of the steering column. Yes, it's about $40 and an easy DIY.
The history of our 3G TL's says it's most likely the starter, but ignition switches have been know to go bad as well.
Have you had someone bang on the starter while trying to crank?
The history of our 3G TL's says it's most likely the starter, but ignition switches have been know to go bad as well.
Have you had someone bang on the starter while trying to crank?
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
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That would be great, I've seen that connector on different parts places.
It's not what he Haynes manual says but they're not always right I've found..
I have been doing this myself, but my daughter should swing by later today and help out for a few. I already have my steering column cover off. So I'm halfway there.
I really can't complain about the car too much, over 265K, had to have the tranny rebuilt, but other then that, I wouldn't trade it for any other car.
It's not what he Haynes manual says but they're not always right I've found..
I have been doing this myself, but my daughter should swing by later today and help out for a few. I already have my steering column cover off. So I'm halfway there.
I really can't complain about the car too much, over 265K, had to have the tranny rebuilt, but other then that, I wouldn't trade it for any other car.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: MAGA country
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
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Damn, I just whacked on the starter/solenoid area with a plastic broom handle and it did start after a few attempts. Not sure that this means anything though. I have had it not start for a day before and just magically start again.
Before replacing the contact switch I will try and have someone turn key to start position, then I will tap starter and see if that works.
It still will not do anything if I just turn the key normally, have to push hard in, and flick the key over quickly. I love intermittent problems!!!
Before replacing the contact switch I will try and have someone turn key to start position, then I will tap starter and see if that works.
It still will not do anything if I just turn the key normally, have to push hard in, and flick the key over quickly. I love intermittent problems!!!
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Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2016
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Hmm, starting to seem like it may be solenoid. I did try key, nothing, whacked lightly, nothing, whacked harder, started.
I just might be a combination of finicky switch and bad starter!
Thinking I might replace starter, and see what happens. Good place to buy? I normally shop Autozone, but reviews on this starter there are f'ng horrible!
I just might be a combination of finicky switch and bad starter!
Thinking I might replace starter, and see what happens. Good place to buy? I normally shop Autozone, but reviews on this starter there are f'ng horrible!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
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From: MAGA country
The reviews/experiences on/with the autoparts store starters are universally bad. One Aziner got a starter from RockAuto that worked fine, ~$119, no core:
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...thread-926725/
Check posts #20 and #22. Also check post #25 for a possible $35 quick fix.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...thread-926725/
Check posts #20 and #22. Also check post #25 for a possible $35 quick fix.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
Before replacing anything you should recondition the battery/starter terminals, posts. Bad contacts could have the same symptoms.
As preventive maintenance this should be done anyway. Of course we never think about this unless the car doesn't start.
As preventive maintenance this should be done anyway. Of course we never think about this unless the car doesn't start.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,482
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Check the wire leading to the starter. Unfortunately it's under the battery. If you can get a way to wiggle that only and not tap on the starter you can narrow it down. The wire is known to come loose under the rubber boot cover.
06 Anthracite TL
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Myrtle Beach, SC as of 5/2016
Swapping out a starter will take about 90 minutes total. I replaced mine on the TL last year and it was a pretty straightforward affair. You have to remove the battery and the battery trays to access the starter bolts. I had never done one before either. I used a NAPA starter but the one with the lifetime warranty- it was $120 with the core returned. It's been fine since.
8th Gear
Joined: Feb 2018
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Id like to know if switching ign worked for you here is where Im at...
2004 118k AT..... So was swapping out power-steering tank and 2 o-ring fix. When come to sucking out old fluid I went to start the car... all lights come on dome dash etc... but no turn over.. just a Lil click under hood.
So checked all usual suspect fuses, and tested for current... all good! Battery took in to test.. perfect! but asked for a Lil charge anyway .. I don't have any HFL problems, alternator has less than 60k miles. Saw that condition of starter was not so good... corrosion and what not. So went and purchased OEM + and - new cables and an OEM refurbished starter just in case.
I was hoping to not need starter.. reading most threads blaming + cable the culprit. So I installed new - cable and started testing current.. A buddy helped with reverse hooking up of the starter to confirm it works and it does just fine.. The car started no problem.. tested the ignition switch.. no problem.. and checked and changed the relay cutoff by foot panel fuse box.
But where I'm stuck is.. when you test the flow from the "black n white" little clip on wire going to the starter.. no juice... meaning current ya know 12v stuff lol... NADA... any ideas? I think I should just try installing new + cable.. but that doesn't have a new Lil black/white wire...It only connects to the fuse box under hood and to starter.
My buddy thinks that even though the ignition switch tested OK.. that it still may be the culprit. I don't know... So in close I tested everything I have read up on to test my problem is the black/white wire clip to the starter has no current from ignition.
Any chime ins... that's when people responds with their own suggestions and ideas lol... would be appreciated
2004 118k AT..... So was swapping out power-steering tank and 2 o-ring fix. When come to sucking out old fluid I went to start the car... all lights come on dome dash etc... but no turn over.. just a Lil click under hood.
So checked all usual suspect fuses, and tested for current... all good! Battery took in to test.. perfect! but asked for a Lil charge anyway .. I don't have any HFL problems, alternator has less than 60k miles. Saw that condition of starter was not so good... corrosion and what not. So went and purchased OEM + and - new cables and an OEM refurbished starter just in case.
I was hoping to not need starter.. reading most threads blaming + cable the culprit. So I installed new - cable and started testing current.. A buddy helped with reverse hooking up of the starter to confirm it works and it does just fine.. The car started no problem.. tested the ignition switch.. no problem.. and checked and changed the relay cutoff by foot panel fuse box.
But where I'm stuck is.. when you test the flow from the "black n white" little clip on wire going to the starter.. no juice... meaning current ya know 12v stuff lol... NADA... any ideas? I think I should just try installing new + cable.. but that doesn't have a new Lil black/white wire...It only connects to the fuse box under hood and to starter.
My buddy thinks that even though the ignition switch tested OK.. that it still may be the culprit. I don't know... So in close I tested everything I have read up on to test my problem is the black/white wire clip to the starter has no current from ignition.
Any chime ins... that's when people responds with their own suggestions and ideas lol... would be appreciated
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
Id like to know if switching ign worked for you here is where Im at...<br /><br />2004 118k AT..... So was swapping out power-steering tank and 2 o-ring fix. When come to sucking out old fluid I went to start the car... all lights come on dome dash etc... but no turn over.. just a Lil click under hood.<br /><br />So checked all usual suspect fuses, and tested for current... all good! Battery took in to test.. perfect! but asked for a Lil charge anyway .. I don't have any HFL problems, alternator has less than 60k miles. Saw that condition of starter was not so good... corrosion and what not. So went and purchased OEM + and - new cables and an OEM refurbished starter just in case.<br /><br />I was hoping to not need starter.. reading most threads blaming + cable the culprit. So I installed new - cable and started testing current.. A buddy helped with reverse hooking up of the starter to confirm it works and it does just fine.. The car started no problem.. tested the ignition switch.. no problem.. and checked and changed the relay cutoff by foot panel fuse box.<br /><br />But where I'm stuck is.. when you test the flow from the "black n white" little clip on wire going to the starter.. no juice... meaning current ya know 12v stuff lol... NADA... any ideas? I think I should just try installing new + cable.. but that doesn't have a new Lil black/white wire...It only connects to the fuse box under hood and to starter.<br /><br />My buddy thinks that even though the ignition switch tested OK.. that it still may be the culprit. I don't know... So in close I tested everything I have read up on to test my problem is the black/white wire clip to the starter has no current from ignition.<br /><br />Any chime ins... that's when people responds with their own suggestions and ideas lol... would be appreciated
If the above checks out ok but car still not cranking then you have a defective trans range switch or the wire is defective to or from the trans range switch. This wire is not being grounded to allow the starter cut out relay to power the starter solenoid. Actually, just check for a good ground on this wire with the trans shifter in park or neutral, if not then replace the trans range switch. In any other position this wire will be open and not grounded.
Last edited by thoiboi; Dec 3, 2018 at 02:20 PM.