I think my timing belt went....FML
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
I think my timing belt went....FML
I been planning to replace my timing belt this week. Unfortunately now it's a must. Let me start by... I have a 2005 TL base with 86k, auto. I was driving, thankfully close to home. When all of a sudden she started shaking and turn off. When I tried to start back up, she would crank but not turn over. I ended up pushing my way home. I'm hoping my valves aren't bent. Can I get an estimate of price of repairs? I'm debating if to repair it or just trade for an upgrade.
How would I know if it is my timing belt or the fuel pump?
Open to all opinions and questions
:why me:
How would I know if it is my timing belt or the fuel pump?
Open to all opinions and questions
:why me:
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
So you want a repair estimate through an online forum based on the fact that your car started shaking then then turned off....
In all seriousness take it to a shop for an estimate. There's no way for us to know
In all seriousness take it to a shop for an estimate. There's no way for us to know
The following 2 users liked this post by paperboy42190:
nttstt444 (04-02-2013),
Undying Dreams (04-02-2013)
#5
Advanced
mines at 05 tl 119k miles and i still haven't replaced my timming belt yet but will do it very soon. good luck with the repairs.and I agree with paperboy its best to take it in to the shop and ask because you will get a answer(or estimate) but not a exact price.
#6
#7
Race Director
I'll be very, very surprised if it's the timing belt....
Trending Topics
#10
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (1)
^ this.
#11
My first ricer
iTrader: (4)
Check fuel pressure first? How long do the fuel pumps last on these cars? Check for spark? Just cause it's cranking doesn't mean you have spark, just your starter isn't bad and you're battery isn't dead yet.
#12
RAR
if it makes you feel better, my tl had an issue a while back where when I approached a gas station it started idling really rough and the engine would shake violently. At higher speeds it was fine. Turned out to be my egr valve + gunk buildup + bad coils
Last edited by leedogg; 04-02-2013 at 08:25 AM.
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (04-02-2013)
#15
Instructor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Westchester County, New Rochelle
Age: 37
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
honestly my TL buds i have a base 2008 TL and it has almost 80K ive been babying this car since i got it with 30k. Im doing the 100k service next week, I suggest you do the 100k service even before it hits that 100k mark, sounds to me like the belt the belt tensioner and the crank pulley could be the issue here im not 100% certain but just a guess. I am all for preventive maintenance keeps piece of mind that your baby will run smooth with no issue, damn man im sorry to hear about your issue but i agree with paper boy take it to a local shop and let them inspect it. I wouldn't trade it in for an upgrade though. Just because your car has 86k doesn't mean its going to fall apart you just need to do your job and take care of the proper maintenance procedures then Im sure you wont have any problem. Good luck and please keep us updated i hope for the best.
The following users liked this post:
THEReeM718 (04-02-2013)
#18
Race Director
The following users liked this post:
TLtrigirl (04-02-2013)
#20
Advanced
damn I need to get mine changed.. should have had the belt changed instead of buying wheels.. Tbelt will be done next month..OP hope your belt isn't broke. Kind of agree with the rest. egr/ignition coil issue.
The following users liked this post:
THEReeM718 (04-02-2013)
#22
the overexplainer
you could at least take the front timing belt cover off to take a look.
as others mentioned i doubt it was failure of the TB. Confirm it yourself, it's not hard.
as others mentioned i doubt it was failure of the TB. Confirm it yourself, it's not hard.
#24
Instructor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Westchester County, New Rochelle
Age: 37
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
so you guys agree with me ? lol I too want piece of mind and hey, amazon has the dayco kit for 156 with free shipping thats what im getting and of course im getting a UR pulley with a good year gatorback poly V belt which is better then gates FTW !!!!!
The following users liked this post:
THEReeM718 (04-02-2013)
#25
Race Director
Wrong...
No, I'm saying what is in the owner's manual and the service manual to dispel bad info that continues to be spread in this forum.
And yes, the "4" does appear to come "around" 105K, and the OP is not anywhere near 105K...
No, I'm saying what is in the owner's manual and the service manual to dispel bad info that continues to be spread in this forum.
And yes, the "4" does appear to come "around" 105K, and the OP is not anywhere near 105K...
The following users liked this post:
TLtrigirl (04-02-2013)
#29
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
The big myth I'd like to see squashed is this 7 year itch, lol. It's a myth that greedy mechanics and dealerships love to see propagated. Timing belts stretch and wear from repeated use, not sitting idly beneath a sealed cover. They're impregnated with all kinds of preservatives to keep them strong and pliable. I've seen exposed serpentine belts older than 7 years that are still in good shape and they're much more exposed to fluids and the environment than a timing belt.
#31
Team Owner
Why not have someone crank it over and see if the cams turn through their inspection holes. Geeez, can anyone troubleshoot or is it a lost art?
I just made an EGR block off plate in literally under a minute with $2 worth of bar stock from Home Depot. Make something to fit between the EGR valve and its mount. See if she runs.
Turn the key to on and listen for the fuel pump to cycle on for a couple seconds.
You just eliminated timing belt, EGR, and fuel pump.
I just made an EGR block off plate in literally under a minute with $2 worth of bar stock from Home Depot. Make something to fit between the EGR valve and its mount. See if she runs.
Turn the key to on and listen for the fuel pump to cycle on for a couple seconds.
You just eliminated timing belt, EGR, and fuel pump.
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (04-03-2013)
#32
Suzuka Master
I had seen a TB goes bad on an Odyssey at 60k miles causing two bent valve. OEM belt and OEM parts, the work has done by Honda dealer.
#33
Team Owner
Why does no one ever mention the severe service interval of 60,000 miles? My car qualifies under the severe service guidelines.
#34
Race Director
"regularly driven in temperatures over 110F or under -20F"
Sure, some locations in NA have highs of 111F or more, or lows of -21F or lower, but not on a regular basis.
#35
Team Owner
Because there's not an inhabited location in North American that meets those conditions on a "regular" basis:
"regularly driven in temperatures over 110F or under -20F"
Sure, some locations in NA have highs of 111F or more, or lows of -21F or lower, but not on a regular basis.
"regularly driven in temperatures over 110F or under -20F"
Sure, some locations in NA have highs of 111F or more, or lows of -21F or lower, but not on a regular basis.
I think it's only responsible to include this very valuable piece of information when saying there is no interval and to only follow the MID. I've lived in Mesa, Az, Vegas, and Bakersfield, all of which qualify me for severe service. There are many members here that might want to know this bit of info.
Common sense would tell me that the accelerated deterioration of the belt doesn't start at exactly 111F or -21F. It makes sense that a hot climate with many 100+ days is going to shorten belt life. I'm sure there's a huge safety margin built in for much of the country in mild climates at the normal interval but for those of us in the extremes that margin becomes very thin.
I could bring up stop and go vs freeway under hood temps but I think we can leave it at those in a hot or cold climate, you may want to change the belt a little sooner.
#36
Intermediate
I'm at 142K, bought the car at 131K. I have no idea if the 105K service was done or not(no service records), but last week a Firestone worker checked my timing belt and he told me it looks fine. Any advice?
#37
Race Director
Define "regular basis".
I think it's only responsible to include this very valuable piece of information when saying there is no interval and to only follow the MID. I've lived in Mesa, Az, Vegas, and Bakersfield, all of which qualify me for severe service. There are many members here that might want to know this bit of info.
Common sense would tell me that the accelerated deterioration of the belt doesn't start at exactly 111F or -21F. It makes sense that a hot climate with many 100+ days is going to shorten belt life. I'm sure there's a huge safety margin built in for much of the country in mild climates at the normal interval but for those of us in the extremes that margin becomes very thin.
I could bring up stop and go vs freeway under hood temps but I think we can leave it at those in a hot or cold climate, you may want to change the belt a little sooner.
I think it's only responsible to include this very valuable piece of information when saying there is no interval and to only follow the MID. I've lived in Mesa, Az, Vegas, and Bakersfield, all of which qualify me for severe service. There are many members here that might want to know this bit of info.
Common sense would tell me that the accelerated deterioration of the belt doesn't start at exactly 111F or -21F. It makes sense that a hot climate with many 100+ days is going to shorten belt life. I'm sure there's a huge safety margin built in for much of the country in mild climates at the normal interval but for those of us in the extremes that margin becomes very thin.
I could bring up stop and go vs freeway under hood temps but I think we can leave it at those in a hot or cold climate, you may want to change the belt a little sooner.
Even China Lake/Death Valley has only had 31 days in the last 10 years where the temperature exceeded 110F. The most days in a single year was 7 days in 2005. Nothing close to "regular"...
And my original post:
#38
Race Director
Are you able to contact the previous owner? How about any Acura dealer where the car may have been previously serviced? And CARFAX may have a record as well. Good luck...
The following users liked this post:
JoeChege (04-03-2013)
#39
06 Anthracite TL
Since there's no record of it being done, I'd err on the side of caution and get it done as soon as practical. It may have been done, but at least you would have peace of mind knowing the engine is good for another 100K miles. My brother who has my old 00TL had the belt done at 140,000 miles and he said it looked fine, but of course, that's no guarantee against failure given the mileage. I guess the only advice I can give is that if you're selling the car in the near future, you may not want the bill for the work, but if you plan on keeping it, I'd get it done.
The following users liked this post:
JoeChege (04-03-2013)
#40
Team Owner
"Regularly" would certainly mean more than 5 days in 10 years, which is the number of days that the temperature has been above 110F in the last 10 years in Bakersfield (Weather Underground, 2003 - present). And for those 5 days, the high was 111F.
Even China Lake/Death Valley has only had 31 days in the last 10 years where the temperature exceeded 110F. The most days in a single year was 7 days in 2005. Nothing close to "regular"...
And my original post:
Even China Lake/Death Valley has only had 31 days in the last 10 years where the temperature exceeded 110F. The most days in a single year was 7 days in 2005. Nothing close to "regular"...
And my original post:
With that said it would be helpful to include this bit of information instead of always telling people to only go by the MID. Maybe an asterisk next to all of your "follow the mid or die" suggestions would help people out.
The following users liked this post:
THEReeM718 (04-02-2013)