How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors
06-17-2010, 07:37 PM
#1
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors
I GOT IT!
Pitboard link to full article:
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors HeelToeAuto.com's Pit Board
Pitboard link to full article:
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors HeelToeAuto.com's Pit Board
Thanks fer readin'!
Marcus
949-295-1668
Pitboard link to full article:
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors HeelToeAuto.com's Pit Board
Originally Posted by mrheeltoe
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors
I hate these screws. Most European cars don’t even have them, but for some reason the Japanese feel the need to equip their cars with them. The reason they are there is to hold the rotor securely to the hub of the car once the wheel is removed. If you look at how the whole assembly of hub/studs, rotor, wheel, and lug nuts fits together, you will see that these screws serve no purpose once the wheel is installed. The screws exist merely as an unnecessary assembly aide.
Their function is so superficial, in fact, that they are made out of what must be the softest metallic substance on the entire car. Under any load from the brakes, I can imagine these screws’ heads popping off instantly. Alas, they are on the car holding the rotor in place and must be removed in order to change rotors (another insufficiently designed component of the Honda/Acura braking system, but that is another blog topic...) The process of removing these screws appears to be as simple as grabbing a phillips head screwdriver and giving them a twist.
Unfortunately, life creates it’s own interesting moments when it is realized that even a very minimal amount of unseen corrosion or galvanic action LOCKS these bad boys in place, causing the screws to strip with ease. Once these guys are stripped, you need to grab a drill and bore out the heads to get them off. I have done this drilling more often than I have had the miraculous joy of actually removing the screws properly. I never want to do it again.
Let’s say, I were to stop writing here. One might no doubt search their favorite message forum and read all of the wonders of a tool called an impact driver. This tool is a sort of screw-driver with a spring-loaded twisting action that works when the handle is hit with a hammer. The idea is, the hammer forces the driver into the screw while the spring action twists the screw just enough to break it free. Much of the time, and impact driver is the perfect tool for the job. But I content this method is no sure-fire way to unscrew these screwy screws without possible need for the drill.
Problem one with the driver is, not everyone has one, and not everyone who changes brakes every 2-3 years wants to buy one. In order to get one that works reliably, you’ll need to spend enough money that you might well have paid someone to do your brakes for you. I’ve used cheap ones, and broken them almost instantly. Bonus…before they broke, they stripped the screws.
Problem two, even with a good driver there exists an estimated 10% chance you’s strip a screw anyway because the screws are just that bitchy.
So here is my SURE FIRE, WORKED EVERY TIME I DID IT WITHOUT FAIL way of removing the rotor screws from your brake rotors. It involves two simple tools nearly everyone has in their tool box.
I hate these screws. Most European cars don’t even have them, but for some reason the Japanese feel the need to equip their cars with them. The reason they are there is to hold the rotor securely to the hub of the car once the wheel is removed. If you look at how the whole assembly of hub/studs, rotor, wheel, and lug nuts fits together, you will see that these screws serve no purpose once the wheel is installed. The screws exist merely as an unnecessary assembly aide.
Their function is so superficial, in fact, that they are made out of what must be the softest metallic substance on the entire car. Under any load from the brakes, I can imagine these screws’ heads popping off instantly. Alas, they are on the car holding the rotor in place and must be removed in order to change rotors (another insufficiently designed component of the Honda/Acura braking system, but that is another blog topic...) The process of removing these screws appears to be as simple as grabbing a phillips head screwdriver and giving them a twist.
Unfortunately, life creates it’s own interesting moments when it is realized that even a very minimal amount of unseen corrosion or galvanic action LOCKS these bad boys in place, causing the screws to strip with ease. Once these guys are stripped, you need to grab a drill and bore out the heads to get them off. I have done this drilling more often than I have had the miraculous joy of actually removing the screws properly. I never want to do it again.
Let’s say, I were to stop writing here. One might no doubt search their favorite message forum and read all of the wonders of a tool called an impact driver. This tool is a sort of screw-driver with a spring-loaded twisting action that works when the handle is hit with a hammer. The idea is, the hammer forces the driver into the screw while the spring action twists the screw just enough to break it free. Much of the time, and impact driver is the perfect tool for the job. But I content this method is no sure-fire way to unscrew these screwy screws without possible need for the drill.
Problem one with the driver is, not everyone has one, and not everyone who changes brakes every 2-3 years wants to buy one. In order to get one that works reliably, you’ll need to spend enough money that you might well have paid someone to do your brakes for you. I’ve used cheap ones, and broken them almost instantly. Bonus…before they broke, they stripped the screws.
Problem two, even with a good driver there exists an estimated 10% chance you’s strip a screw anyway because the screws are just that bitchy.
So here is my SURE FIRE, WORKED EVERY TIME I DID IT WITHOUT FAIL way of removing the rotor screws from your brake rotors. It involves two simple tools nearly everyone has in their tool box.
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors HeelToeAuto.com's Pit Board
Thanks fer readin'!
Marcus
949-295-1668
)
06-18-2010, 12:39 AM
#6
Race Director
Trending Topics
06-18-2010, 01:24 AM
#8
impact driver. has a Philips tip make sure you use the right tip and fits tight in the screw once you have it in place hit it with hammer takes them right out first time make sure you also use a quality drive tips if you use cheap tools the are more likely to strip it out. one it is stripped then you pull out the drill. Like this one ( http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog)
06-18-2010, 03:54 AM
#9
05' AT SSM
Yeah impact driver FTW, at first i had some trouble but ended up getting a wider phillips bit and hammering them in and after 3 or 4 whacks they started coming loose. Just glad i didn't have to drill any of them out..would of been a pain.
I easily justified 20 bucks for a craftsman pro impact driver as it can also bust bolts not just screws, its a tool i can use for the rest of my life and have already used it more than twice in the last month.
They are a pain in the ass to get out though.
I easily justified 20 bucks for a craftsman pro impact driver as it can also bust bolts not just screws, its a tool i can use for the rest of my life and have already used it more than twice in the last month.
They are a pain in the ass to get out though.
06-18-2010, 12:09 PM
#15
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06-18-2010, 12:10 PM
#16
Through all the postings we have made in our marketing network, I am really surprised at all the comments this has spawned. (although not on the actual blog site, which I find pretty odd...).
Most people are really supportive and like the write-up. Most of those people have interjected their input as far as how they get the screws off. All that is great! For the record, I am perfectly aware that there are a great many ways that one may remove these screws. I prefer this method because it is the only method I have used in the last 14 years that has not once necessitated getting a drill out. In the hundreds of screws I have removed and the half-a-dozen or so methods I have used, this one has NEVER FAILED ME. For an unprofessional and inexperienced DIYer, that is of utmost importance; reliability of process.
Surprisingly, I have only had one critic saying the method was idiotic, and saying they "would actually be embarrassed for even suggesting this method." My retort was simply that "buying $20 tool to remove screws that really should not exist and will be thrown away is idiotic."
Obviously there is more than one way to skin a cat. But reliability, consistency, predictability, and VALUE...all these are the traits that make a part or a process HT-SPEC!
Marcus
949-295-1668
Most people are really supportive and like the write-up. Most of those people have interjected their input as far as how they get the screws off. All that is great! For the record, I am perfectly aware that there are a great many ways that one may remove these screws. I prefer this method because it is the only method I have used in the last 14 years that has not once necessitated getting a drill out. In the hundreds of screws I have removed and the half-a-dozen or so methods I have used, this one has NEVER FAILED ME. For an unprofessional and inexperienced DIYer, that is of utmost importance; reliability of process.
Surprisingly, I have only had one critic saying the method was idiotic, and saying they "would actually be embarrassed for even suggesting this method." My retort was simply that "buying $20 tool to remove screws that really should not exist and will be thrown away is idiotic."
Obviously there is more than one way to skin a cat. But reliability, consistency, predictability, and VALUE...all these are the traits that make a part or a process HT-SPEC!
Marcus
949-295-1668
06-19-2010, 02:10 PM
#18
FUUUUUUUUck..... i cant get the 2 bolts off that connect the caliper.
my impact wrench is to big to fit behind there and i took my front bumper off so i could use a breaker bar.... my cheap ass wrench broke when i used the breaker bar with it.
looks like ima have a shop do it.... sucks....
my impact wrench is to big to fit behind there and i took my front bumper off so i could use a breaker bar.... my cheap ass wrench broke when i used the breaker bar with it.
looks like ima have a shop do it.... sucks....
06-19-2010, 05:10 PM
#19
the caliper to bracket bolts should not be that tight (brembos are on tighter than non brembo)
iirc its in the 30 foot lbs range for caliper to bracket non brembo (look up specs on autozone or kragen help sections
try to tighten the bolts slightly if possible- then loosen
Or hit bolt head with hammer to impact it and break bond loose
iirc its in the 30 foot lbs range for caliper to bracket non brembo (look up specs on autozone or kragen help sections
try to tighten the bolts slightly if possible- then loosen
Or hit bolt head with hammer to impact it and break bond loose
06-19-2010, 05:10 PM
#20
turn the wheels and you can get a breaker bar in where you need it--cant get leverage with wheels pointed straight ahead
06-19-2010, 05:12 PM
#21
note Brembo brakes- do NOT touch the 2 allen head bolts on the caliper--
only remove the outer 2 normal head bolts to pull caliper off the rotor
Otherwise you open the caliper halves and not cool things can occur~
only remove the outer 2 normal head bolts to pull caliper off the rotor
Otherwise you open the caliper halves and not cool things can occur~
06-19-2010, 05:14 PM
#22
last time i had it done a shop did it so they must have tightened the things wayyyy to much. my wrench broke.... and i used a 3 ft breaker bar. the metal didnt break but the inside of the socket wrench is done.
im done for today. might go at it again tomorrow. i was workin on clearing my headlights. cant finish that till monday tho cause im waiting on a some CF that i ordered to put in the headlights.
im done for today. might go at it again tomorrow. i was workin on clearing my headlights. cant finish that till monday tho cause im waiting on a some CF that i ordered to put in the headlights.
08-11-2010, 03:12 PM
#25
I drilled the screws about 3/4 inches in then I used an impact wrench with a grip bit to back them out. Took all 220 lbs of me leaning on the screws with the wrench to get them to grip and spiral out.
Do not put them back on! You don't need them.
Do not put them back on! You don't need them.
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