my engine seems noisy as hell, im not sure if its normal or not, what do yawls sound like, thanks! And my oil is full I check regularly, and I keep my oil fresh I change every 1500 miles! In the video im showing my exhaust, but at the end I open the hood so you can hear engine noise..




https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

 

Why?

 

I want my engine to last, most I take my oil is 2000 miles, I try and change it 1500, it makes me feel better to know I have fresh oil.

 

back to the subject, engine noise, what is yawls like?

 

For most people, ~4K OCI's is considered crazy. 1,500 only makes sense if you bounce off redline all the way to the store. The MID isn't terrible in its estimations, you could run it to 50% oil life and be sufficiently crazy.

You're most likely not doing the car any good with that short of an OCI. It's probably not going to harm much aside from your drain plug, but it's extremely excessive.

Your video isn't working.

 

Changing oil that often isnt going to prolong the life of your engine or offer any other benefit of any kind. Its just wasting money. And yeah the video dident work for me either.

 

Way too often... You'll most likely strip that drain bolt thread in the oil pan before you see any "benefits" from changing your oil so often

 

LOL even then, it still doesnt make sense.

<----bounces off rev limiter and scratches 2nd every chance i get

I still go by the MID with about 6k to 7k oil change intervals

 

noisey engine=maybe changing the oil so often is not necessary. I followed the oil life on my tsx since new-still running excellent.

 

I'll have to listen to the vid when I get to work. Many people complain about loud valvetrain though mine is silent with the hood down. The purge solenoid makes a ticking louder than my valvetrain but a similar noise. The valvetrain, injectors, even alternator are the bigger contributors.

However, what is hidden under the other noise but still contributes to the noise is combustion noise getting through the block and heads and water jackets, the rotating assembly (you've got 70lbs of metal rotating and reciprocating many times per second) serpentine belt noise, everything that it spins especially the power steering and alt but even idlers and tensioners, transmission especially when in park, exhaust noise that easily makes it through the piping walls especially when cold, a little induction noise, and just a lot of noise sources that blend together to make it loud but hard to pinpoint each one individually.

If it's the usual ticking it's valvetrain, purge solenoid, or injectors but you can't hear injectors with the hood down.

 

Bingo!, the purge solenoid. I always wondered what was making that awful racket (you can hear mine from 20 ft. away with the hood up.) IHC, Is there a fix for that? Also, do you attribute your comparitively quiet valvetrain to the Redline oil, or does it just seem that some engines are randomly quieter than others due to many multiple factors that would be near impossible to quantify?

 

I change my oil often too but only because I do so few miles and I follow the once a year schedule. I probably wouldn't bring it up even if you changed it every 3,000 miles but 1,500 is excessive. There are certain additives like ZDDP that "burn off" when you first change the oil and this is when it's most dangerous to your catalytic converters. The other thing to think about is the dry starts you put it through each time you restart after an oil change. If I were following a 1,500 mile schedule, I would be doing the filter every other or every third oil change to avoid the dry starts somewhat and because a used filter filters better than a new one. I hope you are at least sticking to the same brand and type each time. If you're that anal about changing the oil, I assume you have a top of the line oil like Redline or Mobil One Ep or their 0w-40?

 

My engine is very quiet. No knocks, ticks, rattles or anything.
Don't change your oil at 1500 mile intervals. Your wasting your money and good oil. If anything your putting more wear on your vehicle from all the extra first starts after an oil change, not to mention all the extra jacking up of the car and losening and tightening of the drain bolt. I would rather have a vehicle that has had oil changes done at the recommended intervals than one that has been worked on and tampered with every 1500 miles.


Edit: and now that I read more posts I Hate Cars always gets into all the details of exactly what I'm talking about. Listen to what he says he knows what he's talking about.

 

I don't remember my solenoid being this noisy when the car was new but to be fair the only time I popped the hood back then was to change the oil. There's a chance replacing it will help. I've thought about using some of the foam sound blocker I have for my audio and wrapping the solenoid with it.

Before the valve adjustment and even when new my car had little valvetrain noise. The redline oil definitely helped with the noise. The 5w-30 I run behaves like a 40wt. After the adjustment, I can't hear anything even with the hood up. I do my valve adjustments slightly different than everyone else so I'm not recommending anyone else do this. I set the exhaust valves to the middle of stock specs. But on the intakes I use a feeler gauge that's a few thousandths thinner than spec. I do this because the intakes usually loosen up over time. When I was doing the adjustment, if I had found a single intake that was tight I would have just used factory specs. This worked well for me but I would say do it at your own risk.

 

complete waste but to each their own.

 

What solenoid is it that's supposedly loud? Was that changed or removed for the 07/08 TL's or something because I have never heard any sort of solenoid making noises in any of my TL's.

 

The purge solenoid on the intake manifold towards the drivers side, not to be confused with the motor mount solenoid that's more toward the passenger side. Mine begins ticking just seconds after startup.

 

i just did that interval to make me feel better, this is my first nice car, and i want her to last, i don't always change it like that.

 

Well we understand, but our point is your not prolonging your engine life by doing 1500 intervals. Your simply wasting time and money. Read the reasons above that I hate Cars stated. Maybe the noise your car is making is due to all the extra oil changes it's gone through haha ;-p

 

When the car is warmed up (after about 2-3 minutes), standing next to it I can just barely hear it idling.

 

I think he just said he changes his oil every 1500 miles to sounds cool, but didn't realize everyone was going to criticize it. The moment I read that, I knew he would get more comments about the oil than about the problem. But that definitely sounds majorly OCD. I went about 9000 miles without changing mine last time. Only because I was doing about 90% highway cruising though and I was working 60+ hours a week and was too busy to take it in.

I plan on changing it around 7000 every time whenever the MID indicates about 5%. I wouldn't even consider changing it before 6000 unless I did almost all city miles. If you're that OCD there's plenty of other things that need more attention than the oil does.

 

i have this nasty whine from my engine, don't know why. I checked my belts. 105k was done. Could it be that they didn't do it properly?

 

Does it get worse or go away when you put it in drive with the car sitting still? How's the power steering? Did it happen right after the timing belt replacement?

 

the sound is there continuously, it whines louder with the gas pedal, higher the rpms, the louder it gets almost as if it is my tranny which was rebuilt.

 

power steering is fine, it did happen after the tb, it gets worse.

 

im shocked that a honda engine is noisy.

 

My engine is really loud when it's cold. Most every engine is 'loud' when it's cold, but my TL sounds like a Diesel truck for a few minutes. It gets a lot louder when the hood is open.

I believe this is normal. Some claim it's some strategy to warm the cats faster.

At warm to hot idle, its hard to tell its running. Pop the hood and about all I hear is the purge solenoid and a little ticking. It's extremely quiet.

 

The purge control solenoids have been known to tick/be noisy all the way back to the 2nd gens. If you have a noisy one replace it. Most that make noise, make the most noise once the temps get near the freezing mark (but it doesnt have to be cold to make the noise)

 

Ive done nothing but 15k intervals. Never an issue with my motors (yes motors only because i swapped in a type-s motor and 6 speed trans and recently (3k miles ago built a 3.7) In total there are 600k miles on the car with the type-s motor having just under 400k on it.

1500 is a huge waste of money, time and resources.

 

OP: The engine itself is usually the most reliable thing in a modern car.

You should be far more concerned with everything else breaking. Extremely short oil intervals is not 'taking care' of a car. How you use it is going to determine that a whole lot more than your oil.

Aside from outright abuse, I would expect for you to need 2-3 transmission replacements before the engine fails from wear.

 

the dude doesn't sound too intelligent to figure the oil part.

 

my engine is noisy too but its poweful. it use to be very smooth but i dunno what happen. wear n tear on the engine. I reccomend using oil with zinc to stop the wear and tear. royal purple n quaker r some brands i can name.

 

Royal Purple is one of the worst engine oils you can use. Most have a low HTHSv so they're trading 1-2 additional hp for more engine wear.

Engines have a very predictable life span. You have tons of wear in the first few hundred miles and then it flattens out to a very low level. At 100,000 miles, the TL is still in it's prime. Most of these cars are quicker at 100,000 miles than they were when new. I know mine feels faster than it was new but that's not really a fair judgement since it was so long ago and I'm sure my memory is off. Back to my point, they really don't start a decline until much later and once it starts it's rapid. Not as quick as break in wear but they decline pretty fast.

If wear is the main concern I can't think of anything better than Redline. Very high HTHSv, high levels of Zinc and Phosphorus (ZDDP), lots of moly (the good moly that does not come out of solution and clog up the oil filter), the Ester base oil won't cook off in the ring land area or leave any of itself behind (deposits), it has a very low NOACK value so it does not evaporate which gums up the intake tract via the PCV valve and it does not thicken over time since the light stuff does not evaporate. Being an ester, it's very polar meaning it likes to cling to metal. Most of the oils like the 5w-30 are actually a straight 30 weight meaning no viscosity index improvers need to be added to make grade, the base oil alone is good enough to make the 5w-30 cut. VIIs are evil. They don't use a 10w base oil with VIIs to artificially bring viscosity up and then sheer down to a 10w when put under stress. They cause deposits and cause the oil the sheer down (thin out) under stress which is when you need it the most. The ester oil is very good at cleaning by itself without a lot of detergents being added.

After Redline, I would do Mobil One 0w-40 which is one of their best if not their very best oil and it's actually a synthetic unlike most of the others labeled "fully synthetic" that are not synthetic.

Also, noise does not mean power. There's no reason an engine has to be nois to make power. I've seen plenty, my 602rwhp turbo car as an example has a quiet engine and even the exhaust is pretty quiet. If your engine has gotten noisy, I would look for the cause though part of it is probably caused by the Royal Purple. Ironically they make some of the best oil filters around.

 

Mine is really loud when it is cold, as well. You can feel a bit of vibration through the steering wheel and there's a rough low grumble until it warms up. Reminds me of the I6 in my old Jeep. 102k on the clock. Once it's warm, however, it smoothes out and all I can hear from outside of the car is a slight ticking from the solenoids and perhaps the valves.

 

my car is the previous gen and even when it is -20F outside it is very quiet.

I had a slight vibration at idle but a can of seafoam auto trans treatment took care of that. Added 1/2 can to gas, topped off. Drove 200 miles, added second can and topped off. No more slight vibration at idle.

133K on 02CL-S and new engine mounts, timing belt, and oil sender unit at 118K, plugs at 90K.

highly recommend putting some heavy duty detergent in there on your next road trip. if your steering wheel is shaking like mad, look at some mounts

 

I meant to ask you about your cold engine noise earlier. Most of the time I hear certain claims I chalk it up to the poster not being knowledgeable but I know you know your stuff so I'm curious.

I'm sure you have ruled out the usual things like an idler or tensioner both timing belt and accessory belt. Does it sound like piston slap or does it sound like exhaust noise making it through the exhaust piping under the hood?

I know some of my cold start noise is exhaust, likely from timing being retarded to speed converter and 02 light off. When first started, it's more labored sounding and the exhaust at the tailpipe is noticeably louder even through stock exhaust as is the under hood noise. Once it hits a certain temp (I'm guessing) the under hood noise and the additional tailpipe noise disappear at exactly the same time.

Would you say it's closer to exhaust or piston slap?

 

It's without a doubt not piston slap. I ran the engine without the drive belt and that did absolutely nothing. I replaced the idler bearing anyways since it was an aftermarket one for some reason.

It's really hard to localize the noise. It does not sound like its coming from the valve train, and it does change with RPM. It appears to go away at higher RPM when the engine is cold, but I have too much mechanical sympathy to go revving it up much past 3K when its cold. It honestly SOUNDS like it could be the computer doing something crazy. I'm confident my car is fine, I noticed other TL's make the same noise in parking lots.

The noise is very audible out the exhaust. It slowly rolls away about when the idle ramps down. Once the noise goes away, it does not ever come back until the block cools. I would think it would not be as repeatable if it was a mechanical issue. Irrespective of temp it makes the noise as long as the engine is under something like 80-100ºF or so. It ranges from probably not audible by most at 100, to LOUD at 0F. I have no idea if outdoor temps play a part into it, the car never really sees above 80F.

I don't know what stuff auto manufactures do when warming up cars, but this sure acts like it's intended to occur. Can the O2's give temp readings? My Ultragauge shows catalytic temps, and they are usually within a degree of eachother, hovering around 800-1000ºF at idle. I never payed attention to these temps at warmup. I'm not sure if this is real data or extrapolated somehow. I'd make an attempt to check out timing and temps during warmup to get a better idea of whats going on, but the car is parked under a carport with a few feet of snow behind it. It's not going anywhere very easily.

 

Just wanted to point out how stupid this is. Conventional oil should be used for ~3000 miles. Part-synthetic and synthetic can go 5000-7000 miles and changing those two early can actually be harmful to your engine, as the oil "breaks in" before it hits max lubricity. Have had a few crotch rockets, and have been through this.

 

lollerskates...

I change my oil at 5-7.2K depending upon season (obviously more often in winter) 134K and no issues

 

While oil type matters, the engine family and type of use also matters. While the oil might hold up past 10,000 miles you still have the contaminate load to deal with. There's water and acids and other combustion byproducts, wear metals, silicone, etc. Plus the additive packs become less effective and the oil can shear or oxidate.

3,000 miles on the freeway is nothing but 3,000 miles in the city will mean about 6x more engine revolutions and heavier overall throttle with idle time as well. If the 3,000 miles is all city, short trips, and especially in a cold climate, 3,000 is not unreasonable no matter the type of oil. It will also rely on the engine family. Most direct injection cars have fuel dilution problems especially in the city. There are some that should be changed every 3k. The TL on the other hand seems to have good ring seal and it's easy on oil without a ton of heat or fuel dilution.

Mine gets changed at least by 2,000 miles most of the time now, because that's a year for me. When I did mostly freeway driving with Redline 5w-30, 5k was my interval but I didn't worry if I went over.

I would put the advent of electronic fuel injection and feedback control as the leading contributor to longer oil change intervals. Better oil is right there but fuel injection made a huge difference in so many ways.