So I have tried headlight restoration kits at walmart to restore the headlights. They work really good for about a month... Then I notice I start to get the haze/yellow-ness back into the lights. I read and watched online about sanding it with wet sand then applying clear coat after instead of buffing material into the headlight. It looks like that worked a lot better with the clear coat.

I have this clear coat with me and also a spray can of NBP so I might want to clear the amber defuser corners, spray the headlights NBP and close it up, then restore the headlight back to new looking again by wet sand and clear spray.

This is where I got it from... Will I be able to use this? Or should I find another type of clear spray.

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spr...clearcoat.aspx

Any input would be great! Thank you!!

 

I would recommend that over using the poly/mineral spirits blend. I use actual automotive 2 part clear on mine, but you need an air compressor and a spray gun for that. The clear is very expensive too.

 

Nice, automotive 2 part clear is what they used in the video also. In the video they used Prevail to spray the clear coat it was a bottle they mixed the paint and then it acted like a spray paint can. Would you recommend going with automotive 2 part clear? Or the can I have should work fine?

Do you know if over time it will turn yellow?
Thanks for the help!

 

Forgot to mention I have dry/wet paper Sheets 400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000 Grit

 

800 or 1000 grit paper, adhesion promotor (bulldog has a great aerosol product), and 2 part clear will yeald the best results. Automotive clear has UV protection, solvent resistance, and is far superior to any aerosol hands down. Eastwood www.eastwood.com has a 2k clear in an aerosol can that you break a chamber that has the hardener in it and you shake it up. Good stuff, but a little pricey and one time use. So if you have multiple parts to clear, do them all at the same time. Lol. Otherwise get a quart setup of automotive clear and a refillable aerosol can and go to town.

 

A good "cheap" clear is Keystone Euro Clear. I used it on my MDX when I did a full repaint and it looked great, sanded/buffed really well, and didnt yellow. Again you will be screwed if you dont have a sray gun.

Another option is pull the lights out and sand them. Then find a body shop in your area and ask if they can throw them in the booth while they paint another car. I cant imagine it would cost much considering the waste clear would be thrown away anyway. And to make it cheaper tape them up before you drop them off.

You want a quality clear, not something that comes out of a spray can from you local parts store!

 

I've never seen the keystone clear in quarts though. He doesn't need a kit gallon.

I recommend this. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2...oss-clear.html

 

You have a few options for a good, long lasting finish

1. Buy some 2K clearcoat from a local automotive paint store. There are a bunch of Finishmaster's by me that I like to use. They have automotive clear coat and hardener for 25$. Its enough to do a car dealers inventory worth of cars. They also carry Preval sprayers, which is an aerosol paint can that you can put whatever you want in. they are fairly cheap (5-7$ if I remember correctly), and they spray great. You can clean them after or just chuck them. They have enough air to do a few cars set of headlights though.

2. There is a company called Spray Max that has a 2k clear coat in a can. Its pretty ingenious. There's a big red button on the cap that you push into the bottom of the can which mixes the clear and the hardener. I think the cans are good for 24 hours. But its a fairly cheap and convenient way to spray.

The only benifit I see to choice one is that you will have a ton of clear left over, incase you want to redo a headlight, or do someone else's. Both should give you a pretty long lasting finish.

Just a final note, I dont believe you have to go up to 2000 if you plan on clearing. Make sure you get the haze and yellowing out. I went up to 800, prepped, then cleared. looks clear as glass (I polished after clear hardened). The clear nears a little something grab onto as well. it fills into those micro voids very well. Honestly, alot of people apply clear lower than 800 as well (I think 400 grit is the pretty common to clear over).

Good luck and make sure to post the results!

 

That is a good point, I forgot it only comes in 5 qt containers. I think the body shop idea would be best for you.

 

I love it when people post and don't bother reading previous posts. Makes for wonderfully redundant threads.

 

Ive never heard/used Eastwood. I mentioned Spray Max. Now OP has 2 choices.

I also mentioned a few other brands/companies ive used and recommend as well as price. "Little pricey" is subjective. Some people pay +$100 to clear there headlights. After reading my post, he can assume sub 35$ is a decent price for clear + can. You also made it seem as if 2k in a can was pricier.

Ill agree that part of it is redundant, but I added to the conversation by giving some more specifics and examples and alternative opinions. But maybe thats not enough to deem a post useful to a conversation. Thanks for your wonderfully informative post.

 

Order an Eastwood catalog. Hours of toilet reading. Great products.

 

Right on thank you I will check into this...

So did you go 400, 600, 800? Or no need that much steps?

Sounds like a good idea, Ill look into this as well.

 

Looks like ill be grabbing one of those 2k clear coat cans with the red button on the bottom. I have a friend that has sprays, but well see how this can thing goes.

Does anyone know if im able to split the headlights after I clear them? Or should I do the clear corners mod before I restore the lights.

 

The 2K clears in the can (Eastwood or others) are the identical clears that are used with guns. Just in aerosol form. Just make sure to follow the manufacturers instructions. The sandpaper you use is determined by the substrate you are sanding. If you have nicks and dings and really bad oxidation you may want to start with a 400. If you just have slight yellowing, just hit it with the 800 to clean it up, hit it with adhesion promoter, and clear. You will still be able to open your lights after clearing. Some people even spray the clear coat while the lense is removed.