HELP! Crank pulley bolt won't come off
#41
Instructor
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mel152: did you get it off?
I'm doing mine now and a new-ish 800ft-lb IR wouldn't budge it.
For round two, I bought some cheap 1/2 extensions (20 inches or so) and a 1/2 breaker. I wonder if I should get 3/4 equipment instead. I like the fence post for a cheater bar. I will try again this weekend possibly.
I'm doing mine now and a new-ish 800ft-lb IR wouldn't budge it.
For round two, I bought some cheap 1/2 extensions (20 inches or so) and a 1/2 breaker. I wonder if I should get 3/4 equipment instead. I like the fence post for a cheater bar. I will try again this weekend possibly.
#42
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by silver2003tl
mel152: did you get it off?
I'm doing mine now and a new-ish 800ft-lb IR wouldn't budge it.
For round two, I bought some cheap 1/2 extensions (20 inches or so) and a 1/2 breaker. I wonder if I should get 3/4 equipment instead. I like the fence post for a cheater bar. I will try again this weekend possibly.
I'm doing mine now and a new-ish 800ft-lb IR wouldn't budge it.
For round two, I bought some cheap 1/2 extensions (20 inches or so) and a 1/2 breaker. I wonder if I should get 3/4 equipment instead. I like the fence post for a cheater bar. I will try again this weekend possibly.
1/2" worked for me.
I twisted about 180 deg and held it. After a short time, it snapped. I used all Craftsman tools except for the impact socket.
#43
It probably would have been alot easier just getting someone at the dealership to do it. I paid $50 bucks for mine and it was done in 10 mins. Saved me alot of heartache and frustration!!
#44
kragen online sells a 20 dollar special Honda crank pulley removal tool- no they dont have loaners
It is made to hold the pulley still and then you can easily remove the bolt-
On install - jam a prybar in the trans flywheel teeth- remove access panel under trans
There are 2 ways- direct toque mesure 181 foot pounds or iirc 60 ft lbs and x amount/degrees of rotation of the bolt from there- say 3/4 turn as example- see directions for exact details
It is made to hold the pulley still and then you can easily remove the bolt-
On install - jam a prybar in the trans flywheel teeth- remove access panel under trans
There are 2 ways- direct toque mesure 181 foot pounds or iirc 60 ft lbs and x amount/degrees of rotation of the bolt from there- say 3/4 turn as example- see directions for exact details
#45
The Boss
Yes i know this thread is old. Im posting here because i was just at my local tuner shop and he used liquid wrench, and air impact gun, and torched it. And this bolt still hasnt moved. Should i proceed to a dealer? Or is it even worth it ruining the threads or snapping the bolt. Idk what lol.... I have the bolt sitting in pb blaster overnight and im going to head back tomorow.
#46
Race Director
Yes i know this thread is old. Im posting here because i was just at my local tuner shop and he used liquid wrench, and air impact gun, and torched it. And this bolt still hasnt moved. Should i proceed to a dealer? Or is it even worth it ruining the threads or snapping the bolt. Idk what lol.... I have the bolt sitting in pb blaster overnight and im going to head back tomorow.
If he doesn't have a 1" gun with a sufficient compressor, then all bets are off. Take it somewhere else that has a 1" gun and a good compressor.
#50
The Boss
The guy at the shop used this thing with spiral coils that go around the bolt head. It was to the point of glowing orange. Im gonna try another shop tomorow and see if there guns stronger. The shop i first went to was a high end shop, my acura looked pathetic next to all those porches and a gtr. Either way the guy was suprised it wouldnt move.
#51
Instructor
You will need the damper pulley holding tool: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6357-schley-products-60100a.aspx or Amazon
See if you can adapt step 10 in this:
http://www.iammike.org/htmods/HowToR...-WaterPump.pdf
The document is from http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1908944
See if you can adapt step 10 in this:
http://www.iammike.org/htmods/HowToR...-WaterPump.pdf
The document is from http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1908944
#52
Here's how I got mine loose: (1) soak the bolt with PB Blaster and let it sit for 5 - 10 minutes; (2) Hit it with a strong 1/2 inch impact (I used HF Earthquake) for 30 seconds or more ( a couple of times); (3) hit it with an impact (dialed back to less than full force) trying to tighten bolt; (4) now reverse and hit it with an impact to loosen bolt and it should spin right off.
#53
the overexplainer
damn, that sucks even with the bolt red hot.
I was able to get mine off using the starter bump method.
I used a 6' (foot) long bar with some extensions and couldnt get it loose. The extensions would flex and i bent them 90 degrees.
I was able to get mine off using the starter bump method.
I used a 6' (foot) long bar with some extensions and couldnt get it loose. The extensions would flex and i bent them 90 degrees.
#55
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
Here's how I got mine loose: (1) soak the bolt with PB Blaster and let it sit for 5 - 10 minutes; (2) Hit it with a strong 1/2 inch impact (I used HF Earthquake) for 30 seconds or more ( a couple of times); (3) hit it with an impact (dialed back to less than full force) trying to tighten bolt; (4) now reverse and hit it with an impact to loosen bolt and it should spin right off.
#58
Advanced
I took my entire pulley assembly off to change the crank seal, there was a fragile electronic sensor directly behind it, I'd be afraid this would start to have major issues if it was exposed to extreme heat. It's the angle-sensor that needs to be recalibrated when removing the pulley.
#59
Race Director
Ding, Ding, Ding!!!
Yeah, good point. Not sure how much heat the CPS can take or how much gets transferred to it when heating the crank pulley bolt.
But again, just go to a shop that has a big (1" or 3/4" with a professional compressor) and they'll be able to pop it off with ease, no heat needed. They can re-tighten it enough for the drive home and it will come off easily with a 1/2" gun or large ratchet/breaker bar.
I took my entire pulley assembly off to change the crank seal, there was a fragile electronic sensor directly behind it, I'd be afraid this would start to have major issues if it was exposed to extreme heat. It's the angle-sensor that needs to be recalibrated when removing the pulley.
But again, just go to a shop that has a big (1" or 3/4" with a professional compressor) and they'll be able to pop it off with ease, no heat needed. They can re-tighten it enough for the drive home and it will come off easily with a 1/2" gun or large ratchet/breaker bar.
#60
I just used my impact I bought from Harbor Freight and had the same results as rodneyc77. Equiptment is key.
#61
10th Gear
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Location: Macon Georgia, U.S.A.
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Not an easy job, bujoint did boost my confidence once I Crunk it back up and everything was fine..
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