met152

Ok, so I purchased an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley from a memeber here for my 06 TL (went with the UltraSc stock sized pulley)

I figured I would save myself the effort and just take it to a shop to have it installed. and to make sure it was done right. Went to a local speed shop in Pittisburgh. He first tried a decent sized impact (maybe 700 ft-lbs), wouldn't budge... the week before, he had to remove a crank pulley on an Acura and had the same problem. No problem, we hopped in the car and headed to his friend's garage that worked on larger vehicles and borrowed a much larger impact (the one that removed the bolt on the other Acura).
Got back to the shop, again, no luck. He was shocked at it wouldn't come loose. We gave the "starter method" a try. Didn't work, but for whatever reason, my battery seemed a bit weak so I wasn't surprised.

Last night, I tried again on my own trying the "starter method" (even had jumper cables connected to a running car to ensure a strong battery). Nothing...

Tried the floor jack method, but I was afraid of the breaker bar handle slipping off the jack. I also tried to use my body weight (about 180 lbs) by standing on the handle while someone held the brakes. The handle just deflected probably close to 45 degrees.

I'm out of ideas right now. I really don't want to heat the bolt. From what I've read on the forums, the starter method, although some are afraid to try, has worked for most (if not all).

Suggestions please?

Here are videos of my attempts. Sorry for the quality, I used my cell phone (you'll have to turn your head sideways to see it correctly)

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Get the Honda OE pulley holder:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...843816?ie=UTF8

Then put a long ratchet on it and snug it up against the floor or something sturdy that can take some force while you try and loosen the bolt. Then get a big, long 1/2" breaker bar and loosen the bolt. You will need to put some weight on the bar and it when it loosens you will hear a big pop.

enigmaos

iTrader: (4)

yupe, you need that special tool:

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

If you read closely amazon does not have the tool available
Headover to parts america its like $30 shipped, mine comes in tomorrow afternoon via ups
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtType=&PTSet=

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

my joint came off like butter when you apply a hot knife to it... equipment is KEY...

http://.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2235

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

^ doesn't really showed how they used "breaker bar method" which I tried, and I am not a weak dude at all

01tl4tl

181 foot pounds of torque is the spec on (gen2)- that a LOT!
Wheel lugs are supposed to be 80 ft lbs. but the shop usually slams them on at 130, as a referance. If you ever had a flat and struggled with the lugs- now imagine twice that force required.

met152

Does anyone know if Autozone would carry this tool so I can save myself a few $$ from buying one?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

autozone does not cary that part, and parts america has the best price, $30 is pretty good considering you can sell it to a fellow aziner for like $25 shipped after you use it

met152

Thanks for the info.
I'll place an order for one today.

One more question... Can I get away with just having someone hold the brakes (I have 6sp manual) while trying to loosen the bolt? This is basically what I tried doing, I think I just need to use a longer breaker bar or pipe extension.

Tripnbeats

Its the tools that make the mechanic. Make sure u put some of this stuff on there its saved my ass through thick n thin. http://www.autogeek.net/wurooffex.html its called rost off its breaks down corrosion super fast so u dont break anything in the process. I have every product wurth makes and I swear by it.

bent09

iTrader: (1)

Holy crap that looks scary! My luck the bar would break, car would start, pulley would fly through the wall and the car would fall off the jack.

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

Did not use any breaker bar... we used a SNAP ON impact gun... bolt spun right out... first try...

Holla if you need it done... special pricing for you my friend...

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

I tried the snap on gun, big baller gun really, but it was already getting near closing so I put the stock belt back on and the tire and wrapped it up

as for holding the break, THAT DONT WORK it only stops the rotor from spinning hommie

met152

Well on a manual in gear, that's not true. The crank is connected to the rotor, therefore stopping the rotor from spinning will stop the crankcase pulley from turning.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

^ gotcha, I got a auto, that didn't work lol

rajin_2.3cl

If you can't get the bolt off and want to sell the pulley, I'll buy it off you.

I was going to buy it off that user, he sent me a payment request but didn't even wait for me to send payment before cancelling it and sold it to you. I asked him to resend the request and didn't even say he found another buyer - just quoted what I wrote and sent it back.

Tripnbeats

damn let me look up the procedure in the manual`

Tripnbeats

ok in the service manual it shows 2 tools one simple 19mm breaker bar and the other one that was shown already in the post..... it says both are fine and when u put the pulley back on its 47lbf-ft. but it has to be a 19mm 1/2 inch torque socket (heavy duty) to remove it if ur going to use regular tools.

ChucksCL-S

I got mine smoking hot with a torch and then used a SIX FOOT bar, that did it.

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

your going to need a big breaker bar, you want something thats THICK like1/2' handle, then slide a pipe over it and make it 6 feet long and stand on the end. Works like a charm. Work smart no hard. Something about this long should do the trick.

3rdGenHybrid

You Could Just Use 1/2" Impact...ir Ti3135 I Think...blast It Right Off...or Snap-on's New 1/2" Impact...even Stronger...or A 3/4" Gun Will Do...im Also Selling A Crank Pulley, $200 Bucks With The Belt(underdrive)

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

Or someone on ebay is selling 4 of these brand new for $110 shipped

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unort...spagenameZWDVW

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

dayum dudes prices are ridiculous, even lower than what you sold to me, but in the end you included a belt for me so I saved couple bucks heheheh

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I wanted an Sc, but at that price, might be too good to pass up!

MugenR

When I initially installed mine, I used a Snap-On wrench with breaker bar. I ended breaking the snap-on wrench handle (thank god for life time warranty) then I used a Snap-on 1/2" impact gun rated at 2500psi, after hours of frustration I quit.

I went to my local discount tire where I know the manager and borrowed a industrial 3/4" impact gun that he uses on box trucks and semi's. Came off like butter.

It's definitely the tool!

-Andrew

Legend2TL

I bought this Alltrade Honda/Acura crankshaft holder from Amazon to replace the timing belt on my wife's Honda Pilot. This is a great tool, I've replaced ~20 timing belts before on Honda's and Acura's but this was my first J series motor. I also tried three different 1/2" air impact wrenches (including a 550 ftlb Ingersol Rand) and none were able to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.

I would not recommend tried the starter motor (I believe the J motor turns clockwise anyway so that will not work) or the jack method.

When I finally got it loose, a neighbor and I were on a 5' breaker bar, my guess is the torque to break it loose was in the 600-700 ftlb region. When I torqued it back to the 181 ftlb to the Honda shop manual spec that felt like literally nothing compared to loosening it. Why they are torqued on to that level at the factory is beyond me, some of it could have been dissimilar metals between the bolt and the crank but it seemed a bit extreme.

I

Tripnbeats

Its funny because in the Acura TL service manual it says to tighten the bolt to 47lbs.....they probably blast it with a shitload more pressure to ensure it doesnt go anywhere lol

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

You left out the next step. It says go 60 degree's after you set the 47lbs.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Yes 47 ft lbs of tq and then another 60 degrees IIRC which comes out to about 180 ft lbs of tq.

Legend2TL

Just realized that yes a clockwise spinning motor will loosen a clock-wise tightning crankshaft pulley bolt so my previous statment is incorrect.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

^ although true it still puts force on the motor mounts which are already not strong enough for this motor

3rdGenHybrid

damn bro...i would return your snap on gun...and get an IR gun instead...i shoot crank pulleys off of cars from the 1980's that haven't even been touched in ages...

Tripnbeats

ahhh haaaaaa !!!! thats true I skipped right over that. nice.

met152

Well,
I ordered the honda crank pulley holder tool that was suggested earlier in the thread. $24.99 from amazon.com.
The plan was to take it off last night and I was excited to have the right tool to go at this thing again. Picked up a new torque wrench too.

I was using 1/2" extensions and breaker bars, along with a 6' long fence post for that extra leverage. I used a jack stand to support the extensions while trying to loosen the bolt.

Well, if you can believe it, the damn bolt still won't come off!!
I snapped one extension (cheap All-trade brand), and must have slightly twisted all of the other Craftsman ones in the process.
The pulley holder worked well (as expected).
It took 2 of us on the 6' bar to try and loosen it. It rotated over 220 degrees and the bolt still didn't come loose.

I don't have many options left here. I may try getting 3/4" extensions that will deform less. I'm still not comfortable heating the bolt, but it may come to that.

Any ideas? Please...

Tripnbeats

try rost off by wurth bro soak that shit in this stuff and just give it time to dissolve like 5 mins between applications
http://www.hawg-wash.com/wurthrostoff.html
it rips through rust once thats done, id say put some liquid wrench on it and again try to rip it off......if that doesnt work.....bring it to a shop I dont know if theres a rubber seal behind the pulley because i dont have the book in my face right now but if there isnt torch the shit out of it til its red then throw ice cold water on it. it'll break the bond and let u spin it for a few secs.....once the bond isnt there u can remove the normal way. i did it on my friends G35 coupe with the torch....that car's a cunt.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

its not that the bolt is stuck... it's just it takes alot of muscle to remove... extensions WONT WORK.... I snapped a napa extension in pieces.... you need to get it from underneath with 1 breaker bar jammed to the frame attached to the pulley tool... and the other with 2 hands gripped pulling to the front of the car (I used one hand and like a 3 foot bar and leaned back on it so all my weight got on it... took about 10 seconds of force...
2 things will happen.... 1, the bolt will make a loud noise and be loose... or 2, you will break your breaker bar in half

Tripnbeats

wow holy shit. i would cut the nut off..... when they installed it at the factory they ruined it or the threads are no good on the crank. where in nyc are u?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

me? I am in manhattan...

Legend2TL

I had a similar problems with my wife's Honda Pilot (I believe the crankshaft pulley is the same as the TL). I broke a Craftsman 19mm socket and a 1/2" extension. I got a new 6 point extension and proceeded to break loose the bolt. Remember that what is twisting is not so much the engine movement but the 1/2" extensions. I used a 20" and a 6" extension to get past the front fender on the Pilot. If you look closely you can see the chrome plating twist!

I also had to rotate ~1/2 turn before the bolt broke loose. I slightly preloaded the bolt with the breaker bar off, then carefully slide the breaker bar on to help get a better angle on the breaker bar. Trust me, you're almost there try it again and wear protection googles and put somenice shop towell's on the righ fender to prevent any damage when the bolt breaks loose.

And most important good luck!