kcast5600

Hey guys, I am hoping someone will be able to give me an answer here. I drove my 2008 Acura tl 5 speed a/t 3.2L to work last week on Thursday with no problems. I drive about 120 miles round trip. I got home from work and parked in my driveway like always. The next morning, my father moved my car into the street so he could get his car out. He said the car started right up but all the lights were on. Later that day I went to leave for work and it wouldn't start at all. Power came on but *CLICK*!!! The computer read "Check Engine Starter System". OK so I bought a new starter installed it and she struggled but started up. I noticed that my ABS and VSA lights were on and that the VSA button would not shut the dash notification off. I drove the car around the block and noticed it was driving rough almost hesitant. I parked back in the driveway and let it be. Today I went to start her up and it was very hesitant and finally started up. I disconnected the battery while it was running to rule out an alternator and she kept going. Just ran to Walmart and grabbed a battery during the black Friday rush! Installed the new battery and she started up stronger than ever!!! I fixed my initial problems but now those 2 lights are still on and will not shut off (VSA and ABS). does anyone on here have any idea why that would be? I hooked up my code reader and no codes were found. HELP PLEASE!

pohljm

The only time I have had those lights it was a broken wheel speed sensor. That is unrelated to your battery issue. Doubtful it was ever the starter.

jrleclerc88

If your VSA light is on and you want it off. Turn it off

acrdr

regular scanners wont scan abs or vsa
dealer scanners can only do that
check all your connections around the started for the trans and make sure nothing is unplugged since you changed the starter.

pohljm

reading comprehension not your strong suit?

bluetl04

iTrader: (4)

The sensor on the brake master cylinder might have went bad...try unplugging it and then start the car. If the lights went away, then it's that sensor.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I don't like getting involved in these types of threads with a lot of misguided knowledge but this is an exception.

Before anything, I've been a tech for 10 years and worked for Acura as a certified tech for a few years.

What you had was a bad starter to begin with which is why you got a "CLICK" noise, however you most likely also had a drained or bad battery.
(Drained battery from trying to start, or a bad battery in either low CCA or bad cell)
What typically happens when a battery voltage is stupid low.. It causes all sorts of electrical codes and glitches. Instead of using a memory saver which is HIGHLY recommended while replacing the battery, you decided to remove the cable(s) off the battery while the vehicle is running which is a huge and I mean HUGE NO NO.

You will have a ton of "Battery voltage low" codes in the system. You will need to take the car to Acura and have them clear all body control codes, ECU codes and VSA-ABS codes. You know.. for next time this happens, there's a million places that will do a charging system test FOR FREE, yes.. for free..

pohljm

Dont believe he ever had a bad starter, just a bad battery

splew

The VSA/ABS/Brake lights is a fairly common issue. It happened to my car a year and a half ago and it literally just went away on it's own and never came back. From what I understand, it can be caused by any number of things, from a sensor in the brake master cylinder, to the VSA/ABS unit itself, to the computer just being confused.

I would say to first make sure the fluid level in your brake master cylinder is good. If it is, then try driving around for a day or two and see if the lights go away on their own. Just drive carefully. As long as those lights are on, VSA and ABS are disabled.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Again, I will repeat this.

A Bad starter will make a single "CLICK" noise. Exactly sounds like the starter drive hitting the flywheel (Metal on metal click)

A bad battery will make machine gun noises when trying to start.
(Rapid click, click, click, click with gauge lights flickering)

It is possible to have both problems at once. I already told him what the problem is.

If you have a brake light on due to "Low fluid" in the brake reservoir it (Most of the time) indicates low brakes. As the pad wear the caliper pistons move outward, which drops the fluid level in the reservoir. Another reason would be a leak, not only will you see fluid leaking but the brake pedal will drop to the ground and it will feel very spongy.

Another reason you will get a VSA light on is for a bad wheel speed sesnor.
Another reason is if you have a MISFIRE-- this will also turn on the check engine light on.
VSA + Triangle is usually a bad brake pedal sensor for the rear brake lights.

The list goes on but typically the lights are on for such failures. Even if you hit a curb and send the wheel way off it will set the VSA light on due to the steering angle sensor reading all sorts of wrong information coming from the speed sensors. As you turn the wheel while moving the wheel travels at different speeds, therefore the system works with VSA and ABS. There's a ton of wrong information provided by members, keep in mind, what may have set off your VSA lights isn't always the same for someone else. ONE FIX for your problem isn't the same for someone else. Check engine light is on for 2,000 reasons, doesn't mean your code is the same as the next guy. Food for thought.

Blooze

Well written and good information 04WD, thank you for your input and information in this thread.

so-_-phresh

I have the same lights on. Mine are on due to bad speed sensors in the hubs. Maybe have those checked out?

flyromeo3

I had my VSA, ABS light on due to a damaged knuckle bearing ( I knew that was it as I did damage it when replacing my lower control arm )


You need a code reader to figure out which wheel is causing this error.
Just know if its a bad wheel sensor it will trigger the VSA light.


If you determine the problem to be the right front ABS sensor, I have a spare one.


If the car is driveable until next weekend I'll bring it with me and my code reader when I go to Queens.
How far in L.I are you?


ALso, when my starter died, I didn't have any lights appear on my dash. So.....not sure what to say on that.

just1nsama

sounds like an ABS sensor problem

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I would like to address something again. Please read OP's description carefully especially the BOLD.

"Hey guys, I am hoping someone will be able to give me an answer here. I drove my 2008 Acura tl 5 speed a/t 3.2L to work last week on Thursday with no problems. I drive about 120 miles round trip. I got home from work and parked in my driveway like always. The next morning, my father moved my car into the street so he could get his car out. He said the car started right up but all the lights were on. Later that day I went to leave for work and it wouldn't start at all. Power came on but *CLICK*!!! The computer read "Check Engine Starter System". OK so I bought a new starter installed it and she struggled but started up. I noticed that my ABS and VSA lights were on and that the VSA button would not shut the dash notification off. I drove the car around the block and noticed it was driving rough almost hesitant. I parked back in the driveway and let it be. Today I went to start her up and it was very hesitant and finally started up. I disconnected the battery while it was running to rule out an alternator and she kept going. Just ran to Walmart and grabbed a battery during the black Friday rush! Installed the new battery and she started up stronger than ever!!! I fixed my initial problems but now those 2 lights are still on and will not shut off (VSA and ABS). does anyone on here have any idea why that would be? I hooked up my code reader and no codes were found. HELP PLEASE!"

A bad wheel speed sensor WILL NOT CAUSE a slow, struggling starting issue and WILL NOT CAUSE the car to car like it was hesitant. A bad speed sensor will cause you not to have functional VSA and ABS since the system can no longer read wheel speed or abs tone ring pulsation. Please read the thread before throwing in what fixed YOUR issue, however this isn't HIS issue.

just1nsama

Thanks for the loud reply, that being said, i read the op's post and once i read that his initial problem was solve, witch is the slow start and hesitation, and the 2 lights were still ON and there were no error code, i just thought he could still look up the sensors, unless the lights dont shut off right after fixing the problem, it could still be why the lights are still on.

Do you have any idea of what he could be or you just like to get in poeple's faces ?

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

It wasn't a loud reply more of an informative one. I'm going to say something trained technicians learned over the years. I have a good feeling his original issue other than a bad starter was a bad battery but more of a bad cell inside the battery.
Let's break up the battery

1 cell is equal to 2.1 volts, 6 cells are present equaling 12.6 volts. If you remove 1 cell, you will have 10.5v available. It's not enough to optimally operate all system in your vehicle. Possible symptoms include, hard starting, check engine light, battery light, rough running.

Extended symptoms of a bad cell(s) will also set a traction control light, transmission code errors and body control errors.

But why is this?

Most sensors and computers in a vehicle today require AT LEAST 12 Volts. When a technician checks voltage on a wire going to a sensor- can be 12volts could be 5 volts. Throttle position sensor reads from 0-5 volts. A bad cell can function normal once the car is running but can cause electrical glitches as voltage becomes unstable. It could throw all sorts of wrong information from one computer to another. In most current OB2 Acura's if your voltage was low, the system will set a bunch of LOW VOLTAGE codes. This will mean that at some point the voltage was so low it caused the system to malfunction.

Could he have a bad speed sensor, could be.. But, with what was described, sounds more like a bad cell in the battery causing electrical issues. IF this is a faulty speed sensor I will apologize to you and others.

just1nsama

Now thats an answer, big ups Hope this helps the OP as much as it informed me

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

04WDPSedan....please tell me your name is not Scott...LOL

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

My name is not Scott.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

good LOL....

just kidding coz I think the OP/someone else posted the same question on the FB 3G TL page and I was being cocky with Scott after he said he has like 16 years of experience and kept saying "go to AAP/Autozone and they will read the codes" and I kept telling him that the OP does not have a CEL LOL....funny funny

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I helped a guy on the 3rd gen TL Facebook chat, had a flashing CEL after a hard acceleration. That's a given CEL because its pretty straight forward as a hard misfire with possibility of engine and or cat damage. Now why, is another story. Best answer I can give to someone who asks a question as " Why is my check engine light on" would be as going to the doctor and saying "Why does my head knee hurt" looking for the cause without diagnosing.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

ex-fuqqing-actly !!!

I see people posting up a CEL light going "why is that on"....

there could be a thousand reasons why....even if you scan and read the code, it would be numerous reasons why you got the particular code/combination of codes and the light is on....

well cant help everyone right

flyromeo3

whats even funnier is even though no CEL light is on. There will be codes stored for ABS. Which is why you need a code reader that can read ABS which Autozone does have.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^I should have been more specific....

we were talking about the OBD2 port scanner....

WAngel

I'm going through this same problem. My vsa, abs, and brake lights are on. Now...this happened after replacing both wheel bearings. Knowing I had broken the LF sensor I bought a new one but before replacing I scanned a read the codes. I found it strange that both front sensors were malfunctioning. Thinking it was just due to one sensor being broken and gluded back I cleared the codes and replaced the broken sensor. Now even after the replacement of the broken sensor I'm still getting absolutely no readings on both front sensors even with the new sensor in. Can Anyone shed some light on this? It's driving me nucking futs. Thanks in advance.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

those 3 lights could be on for 3 reasons (that I know off)

I think the HDM tool (Honda Diagnostic tool something) can read those codes...

but its easy to isolate the issue...from what I understand, one of 3 issues cause this:

Accelerator Pedal Position sensor (APP)
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
Intake Air Temp Sensor (IAT)...

when the IAT is not reading right it defaults to -39 degs....so if you connect the OBD2 tool and see IAT at -39 degs (and its not -39 outside), you know its IAT

if you drive the car and the VSS reads 0, you know its VSS

else its APP

juex101

Man this was really well written whewww

KJ 5000

On my 4g TL, I have an ABS and a VSA light on. The reservoir was low so I filled it, but the lights are still on and the A/C went out.

peter6

Read codes. To read ABS codes you will need more than $10 ebay bluetooth scanner.

Yakini Malcolm Foster

So, i lowered my acura TL 2010 by 1.2 inches. My battery died whiles installing them due to me not turning the car off completely. I got a jump start on my car and ever since then my car doesn't turn off completely by the push of a button. Its goes to accessory mode after pushing it twice, i then have the push it a number of times to turn it off completely. My ABS and VSA light are on and wont go off.




How can i fix this?




Please HELP?

Nicole Weiler

Was it raining quite a bit when this happened? Because I am having the same issue (as well as some other intermittent electronic issues). This occurs when (and after) it is raining in large amounts, or for multiple days in a row. I live in Oregon, so this is a frequent occurence. What happens is that water leaks into the ECM, which is located directly in front of the dash/drivers side door. If you take your panel off, you can see where it leaks in. This can cause anything electronic to ho haywire (though it has never actually affected the driveability of my vehicle, other than the blinkers not working during one of these leaks). You can put a fan or blow dryer on the ECM while its parked in order to dry it off, but parking in a garage or carport is the only real way to prevent this leak from happening. It's very annoying.

jeeva86

Hey guys, I'm having this issue. Here's my story and observations:

Background:
- new battery installed a few months ago
- new key fob battery installed a few months ago
- new starter installed a few months ago
- new APP sensor installed a few months ago
- 260K KMs(160K Miles) on the odo
- no other major work done recently
- still on original alternator
- no squealing noises from serpentine belt, so I suspect that's in great shape, changed it years ago at one point
- HFL disconnected years ago

Past few days, I notice sluggish behavior when pulling out of my driveway and everytime, I get out and check if I have a chunk of snow stuck is behind my wheels, because that's how it feels, but never find any, so always thought that to be strange. Today, while driving to a few places, I started the car from the lot and noticed both VSA and ABS come up and the car was struggling. Again, the feeling of snow stuck in my wheels. Earlier today, my key fob stopped working randomly too(before the lights came on). I suspected maybe it's a key fob battery problem, but I doubted it as they last a long time. Anyways, the car was struggling with those lights on. I don't think it was in limp mode though as I'm very familiar with limp mode(I went through 2 APP sensors through the life of the car and know how it behaves). I pull over and park the car, then start it back up 10 minutes later, and the lights remain and sluggish behavior continues. 5 minutes into my drive, the lights go away on its own and car is back to life again!

So I know something is dying, based on this thread and others, I see fingers getting pointed at:

- wheel speed sensor (need a pro obd2 scanner for this, should be available at autozone etc.)
- alternator (I can test this by getting a charger to charge my battery or test my battery voltage via a multimeter)
- APP sensor(doubt it's this one -> I never had VSA/ABS come on in my previous limp mode experiences)
- anything else?

I'm hoping folks can point me in the right direction to start. Btw, is it possible to get stranded in this situation? I wouldn't want that in this crazy snowstorm!!

jeeva86

Update:

1. Key fob remote battery may just be weak as my other fob worked, while the other was failing, so replacing that battery now
2. Battery Stats: Car off: 12.49V, Car on(no accessories): 14.25V, didn't try Car on(with accessories), but so far I don't think it's the alternator

I think my next step is to get a pro scanner from a shop to read the codes.