NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Ok. So lately my 2nd gear has been grinding. It won't do it under normal driving conditions. It'll only happen when doing a high rpm shift from 1st to 2nd. And even then it doesn't always happen. Sometimes it just won't go into gear until I slow down. On the way home I tried twice to reproduce it just to make sure my foot is all the way down on the clutch. I got it to do a mini grind, but it still went into gear. And my clutch pedal was all the way depressed.

I have almost 30k miles on a tranny that had the 3rd gear TSB performed. Since then I have been using the GM synromesh fluid. I am at 82k miles and I have an extended drivetrain warranty to 100k. Should I go to the dealer and have them look at it, or is it time to change out this fluid?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

I'd put the OE fluid in and then when the noise gets worse, I'd take it back to the dealer and have repaired under warranty. The GM fluid, although great stuff, but is only a Band Aide to prolong the problem before it surfaces.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

I'd go with the GM fluid. It's batting 1.000 so far. I've never heard of it not working. I've used it in my car ever since I first heard of it.

Taking the car back to the stealer and having them look at the tranny is a hit or miss. Many people have reported on here that they've experienced other problems after having the gear synchros replaced.

I'd do the 3x2.3 with the GM fluid, before taking it back to the stealer.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

What does that mean?

If I do take it to the dealer then I'd have to swap the fluid for some honda stuff so they don't blame the GM fluid and not honor the warranty.

This problem just started last week. At first I thought I was the one screwing up the shift, but now I am sure the syncro is starting to go bad. So this showed up even with 20k+ miles on the GM stuff. I didn't know if the GM fluid had a recommended change interval different than the honda stuff?

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

When you changed to the GM fluid in the beginning, did you drain/fill 3x? If you only did it once, you only changed out 1/3 of the fluid. To get all of the fluid, you have to drain/fill the tranny 3x. This is why I suggested you do the drain/fill 3x and try it out before taking it back to the stealer.

What I mean by "3x2.3" is you have to drain the tranny fluid 3x, and after every drain, you have to refill the tranny crankcase with 2.3qts of tranny fluid. So, you'll need 7 quarts total.

If, after you try this again, your still grinding 2nd, then I'd take it back to the stealer. But, I wouldn't bother changing back to the OEM oil. I highly doubt they'll be able to tell.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Wow. That's the first time I've heard of that. That stuff is expensive.

The honda stuff is yellow. The GM stuff is red. If they can't tell the differance then they shouldn't work there.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

^
Well, used fluid will turn dark, making it harder to differentiate.

But, as I suggested, I'd change out the entire crankcase and drive it, first.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

No 3x changes needed with the 6MT, just drain and refill.

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

You know we have a third gear problem right? If you bring it to the dealer, they will fix it if the problem can reproduce itself when they drive it. Also the thing that sucks is that once they work on it, its not ever the same so make sure the dealer you go to is reputable. If you also want, call paul (nva-av6). I had him drop my tranny and put in new type s gears and syncs. Will cost you a grand, but it will be fixed and never have any problems. Maybe whiles he in there you can get a new clutch for $330.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Drain and refill 3x. It makes more sense to do so instead of just once.

I'm trying to make the case to the OP that taking it to the stealer shouldn't be the first option when it comes to something like the tranny.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

The 3rd gearset issue has already been handled on my car. I think the problem is specificaly the syncro going bad between 1st and 2nd gear. A syncro cost like less than $5 and it is so much work and labor cost to replace it. It's so silly.

I'm going to think on this. I've heard people are having trouble finding the GM fluid nowadays. If I can't get my hands on some then I'll probably go to the dealer. If I do go the dealer route, then I'll just ask him to go ahead and replace all the syncros in the tranny since it'll be apart. I've got some thinking to do now.

01tl4tl

you have a warranty- stop thinking and take it in - make arrangements with the service MANAGER for the `head trans tech` to go for a ride with you, so you can demonstrate problem-

first-- I would ck the master and slave cylinders for leakage- the slaves are known to fail early- then you are not pushing the clutch in like you think!!
That will make bad noises
look for full fluid level in master, pull rubber boot off slave and ck for fluid inside- should not be any there

dont worry about what fluid is in there- under the law acura would have to prove it caused the problem- and they know it didnt

SouthernBoy

If he did a proper drain and fill, he drained out and refilled with 2.3 quarts of fluid (that's 2 quarts 10 ounces rounded). A dry fill requires 2.6 quarts (that's 2 quarts 19 ounces rounded). A drain and fill replaces 88.5% (rounded) of the fluid in the transmission.

SouthernBoy

GMSFM fluid is NOT red. It's a golden yellow color when new. Are you sure you didn't install ATF in your transmission - which is red, as I recall? That could explain a lot.

SouthernBoy

It's not the engine oil he's taking about. It's his transmission fluid.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

It was awhile ago so I might be mistaken. I still have a half quart at home from the previous fill so I'll check that when I get home to see what color it is.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

I'll check this. When I changed my fluid I put in a SS braided clutch line. Maybe it got loose. Thanks. That could explain why the engagement point seems to be on the floor now.