Any advice!

06 MT TL

My rotors are warped and glazed according to the dealer causing vibration when driving. I have about 4 mm left on the front pads. Is it worth it to have a shop cut the rotors to eliminate the vibration or just wait to get new pads and resurface when I can afford to get them.

I only had about 10k on these think they were at 11mm when I got it. What are some good ways avoid the warpage. Every honda I have had integra, accord, etc warps. I have had a g35,mazda 6s, and subaru gt, and never had any warping issues with the brakes. Anyway to avoid mix of city and highway driving.

 

All Honda rotors are prone to warping, to my knowledge. I'd get them resurfaced. The dealership cuts the rotors while they're still mounted on the vehicle.

I suggest that you find an indy shop that does them the same way without unmounting them, since they'll most likely be cheaper.

 

Guess I will try that, this dealership doesnt do that they take the rotors off the car! Guess they are behind the times

 

Dealership do not cut rotors while on the vehicles. I assure you this.. I for one work for the dealership. I am NOT a fan of cutting rotors since your taking more metal away from the rotor. The chances of them warping the next time is highly likely and even sooner than you think.

 

Replace the rotors, don't have them cut. As it was said, cutting them increases the chance of them warping again and the price is usually similar to cutting them and replacing them.

I have not heard about the Brembos warping. As far as I know it's usually an issue with the 5at brakes.

 

All Acura dealers I've ever been to resurface brake rotors while they are still mounted on the vehicle. This method allows for the rotors to stay truer than resurfacing them while they are off of the car.

If you're particular dealership offers to resurface rotors and they do it while they are dismounted, they're not providing as good a service to their customers as they could be.

As I've mentioned before, all Honda rotors are prone to warping. If you choose to resurface them, they will be even more susceptible to warping, but find a place that'll do it while mounted to the car.

 

I haven't really paid attention to the Brembos but are you saying they also have this issue? If so, I have to wonder if it's not pad deposits acting like warped rotors. With all of the people tracking on stock Brembo rotors but upgraded pads, it almost makes sense.

 

Yes. I know several 3G owners who drive 3G 6MT's and 3G TL-S 5AT's, that had their stock Brembo rotors resurfaced.

 

i glazed and warped the stock brembo rotors...you could clearly see heat spots throughout the rotor surface and i watched them spinning while being cut (not a pretty sight lol)..while i agree that cutting them isn't really a proper solution, i did cut them the first time (this was years ago), as a quick fix with no downtime, and I was able to use those rotors for another year or more. They wont resist much after being cut, but it was $20 to cut them.

Sometimes they can warp so bad that cutting them really weakens them tremendously, so it all depends on how bad they are. That's my own experience

 

One thing to help prevent warping, make sure your lugs are torqued to the proper spec. Anytime the wheel comes off and goes back on at a shop, when you get home back off the lugs, and retighten them to 80 lb/ft.

Many shops just run lugs down with an impact gun, which makes them warp faster.

 

Agreed...i forgot to mention it...i hate air guns on wheel lugs

 

From the recommendations I will wait till the pads wear down and get new rotors. Hopefully they will last a little longer as far as warpage is concerned.

 

I have always been told to torque to 100-110 ft lbs. 80 seems way to low. I have also never heard of shops who turn rotors on the vehicle... but turning is a waste of money, they will just warp again and faster. always replace your rotors, and why wait to get pads i would just get them now!

 

You've been told wrong. The spec for the lugs is 80 lb/ft, listed in the service manual.

 

i dont understand all this attention to lug nut torque...tighten them by hand (with the bar), and dont ever use an air gun and you should be fine.

 

You know running the air gun with a torque stick is the same process of doing them by hand and using a torque wrench. However Just wondering how do you tighten them by hand all the way to spec? Keep the wheel loose and tighten it while the vehicle is on the ground or tighten as much as you can while in the air then when the vehicle is on the ground using a tq wrench to get them to spec?

Where I am getting at is your using the vehicle weight while pulling on the studs/hub to center the wheel and tighten to spec. That is a very wrong way if that's the way your doing it. I have a Snap-on ballsy gun always use a tq stick then hand tq them when on the ground and it's always in spec.

 

Great, good for you!
What I do is tighten them by hand, using the lug wrench that comes with the goddamn car....and have been doing so with every car I ever touched, and will continue to do so with every other car I'll ever touch, and have never ever experienced any problems and will never experience any problems!

My point with the air gun was that, every fucking tire/wheel shop, or every goddamn mechanic tightens the living fuck out of them every time they mount a wheel. So they end you over-tightening them, which is known to contribute to rotor warpage..GET IT?


So you keep getting yours to SPEC!!!!!

 

That's nice. I do suggest you drop that attitude next time you post towards my comments. Thanks

 

Hahaha... everyone has a way of doing it. we can all agree that using an impact is wrong. Everyone needs to settle down this is about glazed rotors not why tighens wheels the best!
I love forum threats!

 

Don't worry too much if they're still 4 mm. I already have them down to 1mm. I'm planning to change rotors and pads this weekend.

Regarding the warped rotors, I'm not the expert. I'll give this matter to the experts here to help you. You may want to change pads and rotors as well if you have Brembo calipers since rotors are eaten by the pads and the crown parts are usually rusting (for original Acura Brembo rotors).

 

100 lbs/ft is too tight. You'll break the lug studs eventually. 80 lbs/ft is the correct one. My Chrysler T&C is set to 100 lbs/ft.