Getting a gliding feeling when i turn
#1
Getting a gliding feeling when i turn
When I am turning, not at a 90 degree angle, but when there is a curve in the road, at around35-40mph, it feels as if tho my car is gliding and sliding......anyone know why this is.
When I was driving the minivan, i could feel the minivan stick to the road. But my tl does not. Feels like it will slide out underneath if i go any faster.
Could this be my wheel lugs not being tight enough? I checked thema nd they seem tight to me. What else would casue this?
When I was driving the minivan, i could feel the minivan stick to the road. But my tl does not. Feels like it will slide out underneath if i go any faster.
Could this be my wheel lugs not being tight enough? I checked thema nd they seem tight to me. What else would casue this?
#3
Not just another newbie!
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Your tires are brand new and still expelling mould release. It's like an oil that is infused into the rubber to keep the tires from sticking in the mould. It takes a couple hundred miles for it to wear off.
Also, check your tire pressures. Over inflation can make you "slide", but underinflation can cause the tires to "roll" or "fold" giving a similar feeling.
It is also possible that you are experiencing the understeer that FWD cars are famous for.
Also, check your tire pressures. Over inflation can make you "slide", but underinflation can cause the tires to "roll" or "fold" giving a similar feeling.
It is also possible that you are experiencing the understeer that FWD cars are famous for.
#5
King of NYC
iTrader: (6)
Really? I find the Yokos to be REALLY grippy and excellent in the rain. Grip seems to be it's strongest suit! It actually catches every groove in the road and tramlines all over the place! And it sucks in terms of noise and longevity.
I think TL2498 is right on the money!
I think TL2498 is right on the money!
#7
Members who said the tire mold release agents take 100-200 miles to get cleaned off the surface- are correct.
Its funny to see people trying to do the race car swerve as they leave a tire shop, checking the traction on brand new tires- when there is very little traction!!!
You got new rims and good tires- I didnt see mention of a 4 wheel alignment??
You have to keep the wheels pointed in the correct direction, Any changes to suspension, tire diameter, shocks etc will require an alignment
Potholes, expansion joints on concrete freeways and general bad roads everywhere,
some cars may need it done more than once a year!
Only the TOE- the in-out pointing of the tire relative to the length of the car, can be adjusted on a stock TL
There are trick replacement parts that include an adjustment for CAMBER, the tilt of the tire.
Lowering the car often pushes the camber past its spec and past reasonable limits, then you need the special kits tobring the setting back down where it belongs
To summarize- new tires deserve a 4 wheel THRUST alignment ~$60-70 dollars
AND- check the power steering recall for your gen3s- all of them are affected
register by VIN and check RECALL section for details
http://owners.acura.com/registration...erstepone.aspx
Its funny to see people trying to do the race car swerve as they leave a tire shop, checking the traction on brand new tires- when there is very little traction!!!
You got new rims and good tires- I didnt see mention of a 4 wheel alignment??
You have to keep the wheels pointed in the correct direction, Any changes to suspension, tire diameter, shocks etc will require an alignment
Potholes, expansion joints on concrete freeways and general bad roads everywhere,
some cars may need it done more than once a year!
Only the TOE- the in-out pointing of the tire relative to the length of the car, can be adjusted on a stock TL
There are trick replacement parts that include an adjustment for CAMBER, the tilt of the tire.
Lowering the car often pushes the camber past its spec and past reasonable limits, then you need the special kits tobring the setting back down where it belongs
To summarize- new tires deserve a 4 wheel THRUST alignment ~$60-70 dollars
AND- check the power steering recall for your gen3s- all of them are affected
register by VIN and check RECALL section for details
http://owners.acura.com/registration...erstepone.aspx
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#8
Easy check of the wheel lug nuts~ disclaimer- live your own life= always do things at own risk
suggest you buy proper tools to work on the car, and to check any work done by others.
I stand on one foot because thats what fits on the cars lug wrench bar, 1 of my feet
With the car in park, flat surface and the park brake on, put the cars lug wrench on a wheel nut so the handle sticks out horizontal/flat, towards the rear of the car.
The lugs are `righty tighty`-so make sure that pushing down on the bar will turn the nut to the right/clockwise- as you face it--
Lets assume you weigh 160-180 lbs- thats going to give about 80-90 foot pounds of torque.
Now stand with one foot on the end of the handle, Stand away from the lug nut- step on the end of the handle---- it should balance with you on it- no movement
does the nut tighten up?, the handle goes down an inch? several inches?
They were a little on the loose side
If it stays where it is:
- thats probably been put on with an air gun to ~140 foot pounds torque, (twice what they are designed to be at) and your chances of removing them on a rainy night.... on a dark section of road... somewhere between slim,,,, and,, can you get a signal to call aaa???
The wheel lugs hold the wheel- and brake rotors to the axle hub- having things too tight and not equal torque, can cause all sorts of problems.
Try to loosen a few of the lugs- if you cant get them off- go to the shop and ask that they be loosened and then tightened again to 80 by hand with a torque wrench
I dont trust the tire guys to actually know the optimum pressure for my cars use.
Try 36 front 34 rear unless they call for a much higher higher presure.
the number on the sidewall is pressure at max weight- so about 70% of that is a good starting point IMO
suggest you buy proper tools to work on the car, and to check any work done by others.
I stand on one foot because thats what fits on the cars lug wrench bar, 1 of my feet
With the car in park, flat surface and the park brake on, put the cars lug wrench on a wheel nut so the handle sticks out horizontal/flat, towards the rear of the car.
The lugs are `righty tighty`-so make sure that pushing down on the bar will turn the nut to the right/clockwise- as you face it--
Lets assume you weigh 160-180 lbs- thats going to give about 80-90 foot pounds of torque.
Now stand with one foot on the end of the handle, Stand away from the lug nut- step on the end of the handle---- it should balance with you on it- no movement
does the nut tighten up?, the handle goes down an inch? several inches?
They were a little on the loose side
If it stays where it is:
- thats probably been put on with an air gun to ~140 foot pounds torque, (twice what they are designed to be at) and your chances of removing them on a rainy night.... on a dark section of road... somewhere between slim,,,, and,, can you get a signal to call aaa???
The wheel lugs hold the wheel- and brake rotors to the axle hub- having things too tight and not equal torque, can cause all sorts of problems.
Try to loosen a few of the lugs- if you cant get them off- go to the shop and ask that they be loosened and then tightened again to 80 by hand with a torque wrench
I dont trust the tire guys to actually know the optimum pressure for my cars use.
Try 36 front 34 rear unless they call for a much higher higher presure.
the number on the sidewall is pressure at max weight- so about 70% of that is a good starting point IMO
#10
I'd just check your rear tire pressure. When I had mine over-inflated once (by the dealer's...) I got a similar sensation, almost as if the car was gliding to the outside of a turn.
#11
i need to check all of this as well.
Mine feels to do the same thing, but i have some concerns:
1. My alignment after my MINOR cosmetic damage repair is not right
2. I have a TON of road noise and the dealer said that my rear tires are flat spotted (sound right?)
3. I bought the car with different tires on the front than on the rear.
I definately feel the same thing though... it is just unstable when turning at decent speeds (and i dont drive this car hard at all. I baby the shit out of it)
Mine feels to do the same thing, but i have some concerns:
1. My alignment after my MINOR cosmetic damage repair is not right
2. I have a TON of road noise and the dealer said that my rear tires are flat spotted (sound right?)
3. I bought the car with different tires on the front than on the rear.
I definately feel the same thing though... it is just unstable when turning at decent speeds (and i dont drive this car hard at all. I baby the shit out of it)
#14
Originally Posted by Tripnbeats
nnatic... dude... gotta have matching tires so very important for alignment and going straight. it would def give u symptoms of instability
#15
Originally Posted by TL2498
To both of the posters that are feeling this "gliding" or "sliding".
What were your previous vehicles?
What were your previous vehicles?
#17
I think for me having new tires was a big factor. It seems to grip better now. Also, I did not get an alignment when I put on my new wheels. It acutally seems putting on the new wheels adjusted my alignment to the correct spot. I plan to drive it for a while, when I get my springs put in, do an alignment then. My previoius vehicle was a 96 Rav4.
#18
Not just another newbie!
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Don't rely on the "feel" or the fact that the car doesn't pull to determine whether or not you need an alignment. Do those brand new tires a favor and go get it checked, $60 bucks NOW or another set of tires in 10K miles..............the choice is yours.
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