rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Hello all...I appreciate your help in advance. This is one of those problems that will take some expertise.

Problem:
None of my interior lights including trunk and doors work.
Homelink does not work
Keyless entry/lock/trunk does not work.


Sunroof switch does work
led mood lighting does work
radio does work

So I check fuses and low and behold fuse #6 is blown. I had a 30 amp fuse in there and it's blown. I pop in a new one and it pops.

I have:
removed all LED interior lights. Still blows fuse
disconnected my HID reverse lights and tailgater switch: Still blows fuse
disconnected my remote turn on wires from acc fuse: still blows fuse
removed the entire center area up top with homelink/lighting/sunroof motor/nothing: still blows fuse.

I don't know where else to go. I'm racking my brain...did I screw into a wire? did I ground something by accident.

Recent mods:
last week, reverse HID and tailgater switch
within last month, new speakers front door/rear shelf
switchblade key programmed at dealer on Monday

Last time everything was fine:
When I got home from work, I pulled into my gate, I'm assuming all was well because I used homelink to get in. Pulled into spot at pool...got mail. I reverse out and someone is trying to get in the gate so I pull close and press my homelink to open...it's not working, I stayed holding it for a while and it didn't work. Drove home...pressed homelink for garage...NADA...no red light...nothing. THEN I realize interior lights are out and no keyless entry etc. WTF.

I don't know where else to check or where to go from here. I don't know how to trace WHERE I'm grounding out on #6 fuse to cause it to continually fry the fuse.

Help please!!!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Update:
The 12volt power (cig lighters)both work, in the center console and under the radio.

Please guys...point me in the right troubleshooting direction...what could be grounding out and frying the fuse from one day to the next?!?!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Update:
Ok, old keyfob doesn't work either. Trying to rule EVERYTHING out.
Also, I have window rollup module and drl module.

nfnsquared

I think you answered your own question: It's something (probably a short) in the reverse HID or tailgate set up.

csmeance

disconnect EVERYTHING that's not factory and try to isolate the short once you get it all working.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Hate to say it...but you guys are probably right.
So...I did removed ALL my leds...went to put a fuse in and it started arcing, but I put it all the way in anyway and managed for it NOT to pop the fuse. unlock, lock worked, homelink worked, lights back on. Put each bulb in methodically one by one...no problem, all stayed on.

Took it for a drive...sure enough...got home and it was cooked...of coursed I reversed back out...and my tailgater switch wasn't working.

I think you guys might be right. Do you guys know if there is residual power that the HID's might hold in the igniter or ballast? Maybe that's what is frying the fuse AFTER the fact?!?! I think it probably is the problem and I pulled the wires from the relay...but it still blew the new (and last) fuse I had. If it's residual...then it's the problem.

I will likely abandon the HID idea...it's cool...but not that important.

csmeance

The proper way to do it is with diodes and such so the current flows ONLY one way. Like I said before, disconnect EVERYTHING that isn't factory. That way you'll have factory only components and can then try to figure out what the cause is.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Good tip, thank you. I will give this a whirl tonight. I will likely give up on the HID's. It's a cool mod...but DEFINITELY not worth the headache if it's going to be popping fuses.

Honestly, I was getting a loud **pop** noise through my speakers because I wired my 12V constant to the relay for the HID's using my power wire to my amps. I actually went to RadioShack and bought some diodes but the biggest they had was 3amp. I wire it up and of course it didn't allow enough juice through to turn on the system so I took it out.

HQTL6SPD

Wow I remember this exact thing happening to me many many years ago when I installed my short shifter.

The problem as it turned out was in the center console. I actually never pin-pointed what caused the problem, but somehow fixed it...

What I did was take apart the entire center console, check every wire individually, double checked that everything was insolated, no ground wires were touching each other, and finally that no wires got pinched under the panels as I re-assembled the console.

I never found the direct cause, but somehow this worked for me

Try it out, GL!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Hmmm...center console, huh!?!? I may have to give that a whirl. Thanks for the tip! Maybe the little courtesy light in the center console?!?! I can't make heads or tales of it...I haven't been in my center console recenty...but I could see something shorting out in there.

Dang...this is so annoying!

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

If you haven't been in the console for anything, I doubt the problem is there.
You said fuse #6---is that underhood or drivers footwell.
What happens if you disconnect the power on wire from the HID relay (you can still leave it to the amp)? What happens if you switch it from the relay to the amp? I'm thinking your issue is there.
FYI, I blew a fuse in the under hood box that gave some of the same symptoms as you are having. It was related to the HID harness for my Accord fogs. I re-seated all connectors and replaced the fuse and it has been working fine ever since. If you trace the issue to the power on wire and can isolate it between the HID relay or the amp, that will give you an idea of which connections to start checking. I also run the HID reverse lights with no diode and its been running fine for almost a year now. How were your connections made (solder, butt connectors, twist & tape)?
Don't panic, Jeremy. This can be resolved with patience and a methodical approach.

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

Another suggestion: get a power block dedicated to the power on wire. It can be as simple as one of the screw down type things where the line comes in from the fusebox and has multiple screws to send the power to multiple devices. This one is overkill for what you are doing, but it illustrates what I'm talking about:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...058#vi-content

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Dave...
I soldered everything...and heatshrink. I did it right thinking I'd avoid problems. Honestly, I pulled the relay on the HID's and still had it blowing. Maybe it's the power wire, like you said. I will likely scrap the HID idea...or add the distribution block. I actually just stripped some wire and ran it to the positive of my capacitor (since it was easily accessible).

Thank you for taking the time to respond and calm me down though...I swear, I freaked...between that and the 2nd dash crack I got and it getting worse...I've been feeling a little disappointed in the love I get back from the car I put so much time and effort into keeping pristine.

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

Check that power line. Make sure it isn't shorting out anywhere along it's path from the fusebox back. Perhaps it got crushed somewhere and the insulation got damaged just enough to short out.
Again, think methodically and trace it out. Remove and add devices as you need to figure out where the problem is. Most likely, it will be something you overlooked or just assumed was okay. Check everything.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yes sir...I think I've given up on it being the LED's inside the car though...that's been working for quite some time with no issues.
I think I can rule out speakers...although fabbing up the baffles and screwing in, I may have to check that out.

I think you may be right...wouldn't take much to strip a little insulation, enough to make contact on metal.

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

More info----they are called "Terminal Strips" and can be found in the local Radio Shack. Here is more info:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/electrica.../fuseblock.htm

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

It's like a clean distribution block. I like it! I may end up going that route...just went out to car (at work ) and unplugged all HID things and traced the path of the positive wire I have in the trunk and it's not pinched or cut or anything. Maybe it's not related to the HID's.

Dammit, I wish this was easier. If it's door related, like a bare wire in the door touching something, I would think it would be shorting out something like the the door lock system or something. Maybe a screw I ran to install the door speakers, or maybe when grinding the opening bigger for the speakers I nicked a power wire that's touching the door. I guess it would make sense since I reversed but ALSO opened and closed my door. I really need to trace the path of the problem. This sucks...I hate intangibles like this.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

add bluetooth to that list...also doesn't work. amazing how much stuff runs on that 7.5 amp fuse. I have another question...when programming a FOB do they just do things with the FOB or do they need to touch wiring and the keyless entry module? I'm wondering if they touched something.

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

I believe the process is to turn the key on & off a set amount of times, then mess with the fob. From what I've read, there is no wiring or other disassembly required.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so THAT is not an option.
How about this...am I able to use a voltmeter and go to the ENDPOINT of each line to see at least which ONE of the lines is the one grounding out? Meaning, can I go check each bulb socket with the voltmeter to see which one is shoring to know where to do a deeper search?!? I'm guessing with the car off, the fuse should read 0 volts. I'm sure, since it keeps popping them...it will read 12v. So then if I go to the end point on each...they will read 0 until I hit the one that reads 12V and then I'll know that is the one the look for the problem on?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so I figured out one thing. I don't know how to use a multimeter.
especially not a cheap needle type. I mean I can see the OHM polarity flip around. So I simplified and used a light circuit test.

Here's what I got:
all other fuses, with car off...will light up if I ground the circuit tester and then touch the positive to the fuse terminals. The blown one, will light up at all times even when I used a bare piece of wire and ground it to itself. Rather than continue to throw away fuses figured this would be my best way to test.

So, I unplugged ALL wires to my reverse HID's. AND all LED bulbs including the entire upper bluetooth homelink piece. I unplugged my tailgate switch and my remote cut off switch and not a damned thing. Took apart door panels to see if I caught a wire with my ground screws or speaker screws. NOTHING. Took out back seat to see if I caught a wire on the screw I use to hold the rear shelf down. NOTHING.

I am at a loss. I have something that is keeping power to the FUSE #6 at all times. It is so much that it fries the fuse immediately when I pop it in. So much so that when the fuse is near to it, it actually ARCS and semi welds the tip of the fuse. If I'm lucky, I'm able to yank the fuse back before it inevitably blows. WTF is going on here...I don't get it.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Your problem right there. You need a new fuse box.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Under dash Fuse #6 7.5 Amp also controls the following

-Courtesy lights
-Map lights
-Rear dome lights
-Handfree link control unit
-lgnition key light
-Power mirror control unit
-Power seat control unit
-Trunk Light
-Keyless control unit (Fob)
-Driver & Passenger Vanity mirrors <-- There could be a short in one of the vanity. Remove them both and install a new fuse see if it blows. If it doesn't connect one vanity at a time to see which one might cause the fuse to blow.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I've removed both vanity's and nothing...

Weird thing...last night, I kinda got lucky and popped a 20amp fuse in and everything worked just fine. Went for a drive and by the time I got back, everything dead again.

I don't get it...what do you mean new fuse box??!?! They can go bad? Internally!?!

Best part, I just made life a whole lot worse on myself. Tried disconnecting the wiriing to the trunk latch.

And then closed the trunk.

I'll be on a bridge...jumping off head first.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Yes, a fuse box itself can short out. Time to unscrew the fuse box and take a closer look on what's going on behind fuse #6.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Ok, crisis relatively averted...took out back seats and was able to access the trunk release. Thanks goodness.

Ok, next thing...
Does this exist?! The fuse box going bad?!? I can tell you that after trying a bunch of other fuses...the #6 is the only one I can ground to itself and it lights up the continuity tester which tells me it's getting juice backward from somewhere down the line or in the fuse box itself. I am at a loss. I've touched and removed everything I've recently put in. If the fuse box can get fried then I think that's probably what I did. I probably fried the damned thing with my stupid reverse HID's. Who knows why, but it's looking probable.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

shoot, just saw your update.
I already tried taking the fuse box out got the bottom 10MM bolt out but there's something holding it much higher up.

Have you ever taken one out of a 3G? Would it be a burnt wire or something I'm looking for behind 6?

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I work for Acura As a Technician and been doing this for 7 years now. There should be 2x 10mm bolts holding the fuse box in place, though it's not going to swing out so easy since there are a lot of wires connect to it from behind. It is very possible to have one fuse link short out on a entire fuse box. Try locating anything that looks or smells burnt. While there look for any exposed or broken wires which will also cause a short.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Dude...you are the man. Thank you for the tip. After all the troubleshooting today I'm convinced I may have caused a meltdown or short in the fusebox with my brilliant reverse HID's. It has to be the case...I mean, I checked EVERYTHING that is on that fuse and I've either not tinkered near it or checked it and found nothing. I will get at the fuse box in the morning and take a closer look at what's going on behind it.

Thank you very much, again...and for taking the time to answer me.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Dude...what did you have me do?
I unbolted and unplugged most of the fuse box. I couldn't get to the ones in the rear of it and realized that there are so many I'm not sure I'd be putting them back correctly so I bailed...put them all back together...
AND NOW...

On my MID I have "1038 B"...I keep pressing the button and it skips over various numbers and then says END and comes back to 1038. If I press and hold it jumps to 1236...or 1706 then END again. But not regular display. WTF is going on?!?!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

NEWEST UPDATE:
Happy and baffled all at once.
So after freaking out after putting the fuse panel back together. I went back out and tried again...guess what...shoved one of the yellow wire clusters into the wrong input. Didn't think any of them would fit, but they did.

Anyway, disconnected the battery this go...tightened everything up and put it all back together. Alas...with plugs corrected the MID is back to normal. WOW...wtf is that crazy set of numbers I stumbled upon. WHO KNOWS!?!?!

Anyway, so frustrated, the FUSE #6 was still lighting up my circuit tester like crazy, very bright, which would explain the blowing of fuse.

So I did a test:

Took out FUSE #5 Radio when grounded to itself it lit the circuit tester dimly
Took out FUSE #6 (obviously since blown) Interior lights- lit up brightly with circuit tester
Took out FUSE #7 Reverse when grounded to itself also lit up dimly.

Then I though...ok so it's normal to light up when grounded to itself and that alone won't fry the fuse...so it's something else...something is causing the #6 to get extra current and fry the fuses.

So I did something nuts just for shits and giggles...I put in a single strand piece of solid copper and bypassed the fuse. Had my FOB in my hand to see if it would work and was ready to yank the copper out of #6 if the insulation got so hot it melted. Initially it sparked a little...got a little warm and then nothing. It cooled off...FOB worked again, plugged an LED interior light back in, that was on...turned car on, opened garage with Homelink...all good. WTF?

So then I put my tester back on the open sockets...#5, dimly lit, #7, dimly lit...and #6 was now dimly lit. I couldn't believe it. It's almost like it was holding onto extra juice and needed to discharge it and in the process was frying fuses. I waited a few seconds and popped a 30 AMP fuse back into #6 and it was fine...didn't blow. I'll see tomorrow if all is well. My hypothesis involves the reverse HID's though...I have a feeling for one reason or another, maybe it's the relay I used, or the HID's I used, or the way I wire them...but I have a feeling they send a current back to FUSE #7 that affected #6. If all is well tomorrow...my reverse HID's will end up being my backup set of HID's for my fogs OR, they will be F/S. I'll maybe get that super bright LED or just leave well enough alone.

This has been a trying 2 days. I swear, made me want to give up on this car. I have NEVER cared for a car so much only to have it piss in my face. For being nearly 8 years old...the car still looks amazing, drives great, great on gas...but what a friggin princess to keep her that way.

HQTL6SPD

Glad you found it! And I completely agree, this car is an oversensitive beast

cjTL

iTrader: (2)

Geez man...what a nightmare! Sure is over my head to even try to understand.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

trust me buddy...I was over my head too...I started having crazy thoughts about moving on to another car but of course...still would have to fix the problem. So now that I figured it out...what do you figure I did this morning? Wash and some zaino z2 on everything including the rims!

Newfound appreciation. I took the reverse HID's out...just not worth the chance that that was the problem.

I actually do have some new news though...went to put all my bulbs back in this morning...they all work, with the exception of the driver door courtesy light. I'm not sure what it is...but I checked and all the plugs are back in but no power to that circuit. SOOOO...maybe that was my problem and jumpering the #6 allowed it to burn off or fizz out or something. Not sure, but I've never cared about the courtesty lights since my interior domes are bright enough to light up the floor when the door is open. I just took the bulbs out of both and put some carbon fiber vinyl wrap on both of them. Looks pretty cool, actually.

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

Pics!
I'm sorry I was offline during this, J. I had a family reunion to travel to.
I am glad you got things back to normal. I know how frustrating electrical issues can be.
While I'm sure you don't want to hear this, I still have to say, "Don't get discouraged!!" The HID reverse lights are a cool mod and mine have been installed and functional for a year now. The courtesy light is just another symptom to track down the issue. Gimme a few hours to review my electrical manual and see if I come up with any ideas.
As you have learned, electrical issues in one area of the car can affect multiple other areas. 04WDPSeDaN was trying to help, but he may not have been aware that some of us are not as comfortable with tearing the car apart as an Acura tech may be. I was pretty confident that nothing is wrong with your fusebox itself and would have paid more attention to your harness and all connections to the car you made (reverse wire and power lead).
I do want to thank 04WDP for giving me a lead to troubleshoot my gf's Accord, which is having similar issues to you, also connected to the door switch and courtesy light circuit.
Chin up, man. You've been through a lot. I admire the fact that you made your girl look real good after all you've been through. Thats some good therapy there, brother!

sindev

Hi Jeremey, I feel your frustration over 6 mos ago. I purchased fog HIDs for ym 2008 TL. Unlike your issues, mine is a little weirder....the same exact symptoms appeared, keyless entry did not work, my automatic starter would not work (it actually cranked but did not start), homelink etc. I've blown approx 7 fuses to date. I will be uninstalling the fog light HIDs and in hope this will undo what was done.

Problem is this; I have replaced the 7.5A fuse(#6) and when the interior light switch is in the off position, EVERYTHING WORKS...............keyless, homelink, my auto starter, including the door lights.

When the light switch is in standby mode or on the ON position, the fuse blows..........

When I installed the fog light HIDs, it has a 25 amp fuse and a relay with it. I followed the instructions to a T and noted that the drivers side fog light was not working but the passenger does. The ground connection was faulty (as the terminal broke off) and when I fixed it, the drivers side fog light began to work not til I re-installed the bumper and then it did not work again. I removed the bumper and noted the pins that go installed into the factory connect were loose. Keep in mind the battery was stilled powered and the lights off the car and key was not in the ignition......since reconnecting the wire to the factory connect, now I'm dealing with this issue.................Agghhhh!

Anyone have any thoughts that may help!

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

sindev---slow down, man.
Details! What instructions did you follow? What connections have you made? What is your trigger source for the relay? Do you have a switch in the cabin?
Tell us as much detail as possible of what you did.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^Good thinking...I replied to his PM, but this info would help!

sindev

Hey J and Dwb993,

As I mentioned to Jeremey in my PM. I installed HID fog lights and somehow the drivers side was fog light was not working. I mentioned to J, that I was going to undo all the fog light connections and it's done.

Problem, has just gotten worse. immeditately once I reconnected the battery, the fuse blew (keep in mind that the interior light switch is in the off position). I actually thought it would do the reverse and work normally.

Now, I'm really baffled! WTF, can't believe this shit.

I'm going to take out the fuse box and see what I find...........keep you guys posted.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Wow...that is a HUGE PITA, bud...the fuse box is brutal to get out! Be careful!