DogP

Hey,

I've got an 08 TL Type S (NBP) that has a rust spot behind each rear wheel. I'm trying to take care of it (correctly) before it spreads/completely eats through the metal. Given that the paint is mostly intact, but bubbling, I have to assume the metal is rusting from the back of the panel.

How much stuff needs to be disassembled to get behind there? Nothing, wheel well liner, rear bumper, etc?

Any tips on fixing it? I was planning to use a wire wheel to knock off most of the rust, put some naval jelly on there to clean up remaining rust, spray it with some "rust converter" (to fix any that I still didn't get), then encapsulate it with Rust Bullet. Then use some fiberglass bondo to fill/sand smooth, and then touch up the paint with NBP paint.

Is there anything (that looks good) that covers that area? I'm thinking of getting the A-Spec kit... does that go up higher than the standard bumper to cover the area, so I could fix the rust, but not need to worry about getting it looking perfect?

Thanks,
Pat

thoiboi

A spec doesn't go higher than the bumper

jthiessens

unless I'm looking at it wrong that looks to be on the plastic bumper part not in the metal quarter panel.

DogP

Doh... I figured I wouldn't be that lucky.

Heh, crappy picture. The brown is just a reflection of the edge of my driveway. The bubbling just above the plastic bumper is what I'm worried about. I circled it in this pic. I have a matching spot on the other side as well. :-/

Thanks,
Pat

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

I would get it done professionally. Although once the rust as started, its hard to stop it! Should run about $500 to fix it at a shop.

mazen222

i have the exact same spot bubbling on mine as well, on both sides... will need to take it to body shot to get it fixed.

ErnieMcCraken

Mine started as well recently. It hasn't started to bubble yet, but you can see a little bit of brown where the body and bumper meet. Took it to body shop and he said it's not worth fixing. Put some WD-40 on it every so often and it won't spread. This guy has a HUGE business and is successful. I trust him.

thoiboi

WD 40 huh...

DogP

Heh, the WD40 is an interesting idea. Like I said in my first post, I plan to take care of it the right way (or at least how I think is right)... I agree that it's not worth $500 or so to fix. While I really like the car, it's my daily driver, and it's got other imperfections. The rust spots, or my (possibly poor) attempt at fixing it isn't going to make or break the looks of the car. I really don't want it to spread or eat all the way through though.

I guess I was really just looking for tips on what needs to come off to access the area, and the possibility of covering up my work with a body kit or something.

Pat

frankjnjr

My two cents: From the picture, it is difficult to tell weather the paint is bubbling, due to RUST from beneath and through the metal, or stone fractures, to the painted surface. Either way, can't understand why "HONDA ROT" , which has been a serious issue with Honda/Acura products, since the early 1980 models, has not been addressed by the Manufacturer! I would gladly spend $500, at a quality body shop, if such a repair was guaranteed. However, most shops, will not guarantee against a recurrence of the condition at, or near the same spot, unless the entire affected area is cut out, and replaced with new metal. I think the repair procedure you outlined is spot on, and should fix the problem. You may want to research a product called POR 15. They sell a (Starter Kit) for under $25.00, which would provide enough material to address your problem areas. Normally, once rust starts, in the areas you have pictured, it's difficult, and usually costly, to have repaired, permanently. {Rust Never Sleeps}

b15

You need to sand it down to bare metal at the issue spot and any surrounding areas. I would then treat/seal it with some sort of rust inhibitor (turns the affected areas black), then prime, and add body filler as needed to level it out. Then paint/clear/wet sand. I had something similar on the front side of the passenger rear wheel where it meets the side skirt. It's tedious and takes patience but a doable DIY job. Since my car, at the time, was already 8 years old, I wasn't too OCD about coming out perfect. There's imperfections for sure, but it was my first time doing any sort of body work so I'm happy with the results for about $50 in supplies and a few hours of my time.