Fix, Sell, or Salvage?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Fix, Sell, or Salvage?
Need some advice. The engine in my 2004 TL, 6MT, A-Spec, Nav finally bit the dust. Looks like rings on one maybe two cylinders are gone (pull the dipstick with the engine running and the blow-by is so bad it looks like a steam train).
KBB shows the value of the car in the $1,000 - $2,000 range... I suppose that's assuming a running car.
The good:
- Replaced the shocks and Struts with TIEN
- Replaced the brakes with slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic pads
- Replaced all the wheel bearings
The bad:
- The steering column has some play in it (If I were to pull the engine I'd replace the steering column too)
- The Engine (of course)
- The interior (Drivers seat, dashboard (of course) need attention.
- There was a bit of damage to the front bumper cover towing it.
Cost of an off the shelf rebuilt engine is about $6,000. A Rebuild kit is about $1,000, not including machine shop work (I could rebuild it myself if I had time, I don't particularly want to spend that time, too many other projects).
I live in DFW, TX.
Questions:
- Go Big? Is there anyone in the area that builds High performance engines? I'm thinking of a video I saw a while back where someone squeezed 600hp - 700hp out of the engine, the cost would be more palatable if I was putting in something with extra ponies under the hood.
- Is there a cheaper way of putting in a 0 hour engine?
- I thought about getting a salvage engine, but then I don't know if I'll just be putting in something that's going to cause problems in a few thousand miles again (If I'm going ).
- Are the KBB numbers right? AutoTempest doesn't show any for under $5,000, and none are a-spec.
KBB shows the value of the car in the $1,000 - $2,000 range... I suppose that's assuming a running car.
The good:
- Replaced the shocks and Struts with TIEN
- Replaced the brakes with slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic pads
- Replaced all the wheel bearings
The bad:
- The steering column has some play in it (If I were to pull the engine I'd replace the steering column too)
- The Engine (of course)
- The interior (Drivers seat, dashboard (of course) need attention.
- There was a bit of damage to the front bumper cover towing it.
Cost of an off the shelf rebuilt engine is about $6,000. A Rebuild kit is about $1,000, not including machine shop work (I could rebuild it myself if I had time, I don't particularly want to spend that time, too many other projects).
I live in DFW, TX.
Questions:
- Go Big? Is there anyone in the area that builds High performance engines? I'm thinking of a video I saw a while back where someone squeezed 600hp - 700hp out of the engine, the cost would be more palatable if I was putting in something with extra ponies under the hood.
- I thought about getting a salvage engine, but then I don't know if I'll just be putting in something that's going to cause problems in a few thousand miles again (If I'm going ).
- Are the KBB numbers right? AutoTempest doesn't show any for under $5,000, and none are a-spec.
#2
Racer
Having a mileage number would help.
These engines are pro bulletproof so I would not hesitate to put a used engine in. Might be worth putting in a 3.5L. There's been many engine swaps on here so lots of feedback available.
These engines are pro bulletproof so I would not hesitate to put a used engine in. Might be worth putting in a 3.5L. There's been many engine swaps on here so lots of feedback available.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Good feedback on the 3.5L! I guess that's the J35xx I'll have to do some research into that, bell housing bolt up, computer change, etc?
#4
Honestly, I would not put a $6k rebuilt engine into that car because of its mileage and cosmetic damage. Post some pictures to assess its condition.
If you really want to keep the car, then put a used engine. Search on car-part.com
If you really want to keep the car, then put a used engine. Search on car-part.com
#5
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Besides, how badly can a soccer Mom abuse an Odyssey? That's as long as the oil has been changed.
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
Refer to teh CL's excellent thread below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...spd-tl-964791/
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Acura TL Builder (04-09-2020),
rockstar143 (04-13-2020)
#6
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#7
Senior Moderator
have you had a mechanic or someone do a compression and leak down to make sure its the rings? I'd replace the PCV and maybe run slightly thicker oil like Liquid Moly 5W-30 and see how it does. As far as the steering column play, have you checked the lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends or the rack itself?
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rockstar143 (04-13-2020)
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
You should be able to find and install a low mileage J35A6 out of the 05+ Odyssey (LX/EX only) and call it a day. ![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Besides, how badly can a soccer Mom abuse an Odyssey? That's as long as the oil has been changed.
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
Refer to teh CL's excellent thread below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...spd-tl-964791/
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Besides, how badly can a soccer Mom abuse an Odyssey? That's as long as the oil has been changed.
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
Refer to teh CL's excellent thread below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...spd-tl-964791/
Thanks for the link! I've been searching the site for A J35 swap thread since yesterday.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
have you had a mechanic or someone do a compression and leak down to make sure its the rings? I'd replace the PCV and maybe run slightly thicker oil like Liquid Moly 5W-30 and see how it does. As far as the steering column play, have you checked the lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends or the rack itself?
Steering column has been verified that there's play in the slider shaft of the steering column... my guess is that a previous owner hit a curb hard. I've driven it that way for three years and except for a little wobble at around 75mph it doesn't bother me, at least not enough to pull the engine to replace the steering column. Now that my hand has been forced for pulling the engine... might as well take care of that too.
#11
have you had a mechanic or someone do a compression and leak down to make sure its the rings? I'd replace the PCV and maybe run slightly thicker oil like Liquid Moly 5W-30 and see how it does. As far as the steering column play, have you checked the lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends or the rack itself?
I have seen bad PCV valves cause too much pressure in the crankcase. Here's some examples of what I'm talking about.
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
I thought I'd give it a try, and $30 of a PCV is a small investment. The PCV was bad, but didn't change the situation.
#13
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
didn't change it but probably caused it...that shit has to go somewhere.
I'm at 193K and the engine runs smooth as a silk worm...
Slap an Odyssey motor in (based on the @zeta suggestion, he knows his shit) and call it a day.
As far as resale...they assume shit condition and auto...the manual you would be able to sell for 4 grand and above all day
right now because they are getting pretty scarce. Type S manual probably doubles that. Kinetic blue type s at least 10 times
that.
I'm at 193K and the engine runs smooth as a silk worm...
Slap an Odyssey motor in (based on the @zeta suggestion, he knows his shit) and call it a day.
As far as resale...they assume shit condition and auto...the manual you would be able to sell for 4 grand and above all day
right now because they are getting pretty scarce. Type S manual probably doubles that. Kinetic blue type s at least 10 times
that.
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
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zeta (04-13-2020)
#14
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
![Chuckle](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/chuckle.gif)
Just as a point of reference.
rockstar143, I know you regularly maintained (oil changes, et al) the fiancé's Odyssey, when you had it; however, was there ever a time, when you were a passenger, and the SO beat on it when driving?
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#16
Things are rough in some places right now because of Covid-19.
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
didn't change it but probably caused it...that shit has to go somewhere.
I'm at 193K and the engine runs smooth as a silk worm...
Slap an Odyssey motor in (based on the @zeta suggestion, he knows his shit) and call it a day.
As far as resale...they assume shit condition and auto...the manual you would be able to sell for 4 grand and above all day
right now because they are getting pretty scarce. Type S manual probably doubles that. Kinetic blue type s at least 10 times
that.![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
I'm at 193K and the engine runs smooth as a silk worm...
Slap an Odyssey motor in (based on the @zeta suggestion, he knows his shit) and call it a day.
As far as resale...they assume shit condition and auto...the manual you would be able to sell for 4 grand and above all day
right now because they are getting pretty scarce. Type S manual probably doubles that. Kinetic blue type s at least 10 times
that.
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
Yup, I've located a J35A6 locally for ~$700, I figure I'll go ahead and put on a timing belt, water pump, etc before dropping it in. Of course this is a good excuse to order a two post lift (since I'm going to save a few grand going this way dontcha know). Hopefully the car will be good for another 100k.
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