Transmission was rebuilt at 157,200 miles, currently at 209,500 or so. Had a local lube shop do a couple drain and fills (couldn't get the drain plug loose after the rebuild) at around the 15k mark. I supplied the DW-1 ATF, the shop that did the rebuild used Dexron III with the Honda Lubegard additive. Not know if it was Z-1 or DW-1 spec additive, I wanted to get some DW-1 in there. Anyway, a few months ago when a friend of mine and I had the car on the lift to drop the bumper (was doing HID retrofits), he noticed that the mark on the drain plug left by the rebuild shop didn't seem like it had been disturbed. Would seem odd if I am supplying the ATF (the lube place doesn't stock it) they wouldn't do the work but since a 3/8 ratchet removes the bolt maybe that doesn't remove the orange painted line (visible in the pics) and it was tightened back to the same spot.

Since it had been a little over 30k miles since the last drain and fill and I have been having an occasional downshift flare (part throttle, mostly after steady freeway driving) I figured I'd do a drain and fill or two. Did one today, this is the drain plug immediately upon removal:



After wiping it clean



Fluid was a dark red but no burnt odor. Going to do another drain and fill later this week. Also going to have my mechanic check to be sure the TPS is in spec, I know on older, non-DBW Hondas, the cable from the throttle to the transmission can affect shifting, converter unlock, etc if it is loose and allows the throttle to move without corresponding movement at the transmission. Odds are the TPS is still somehow tied into the transmission, albeit electronically now.

Thoughts? Warranty on the transmission is long gone so if a couple drain and fills and checking the TPS don't help, I'll be looking for a 2007 Accord automatic with a little miles on it as possible. 2nd time I've had a Honda automatic rebuilt and had issues after although this one was miles better than the first one in my '90 Accord a decade and a half ago.

 

That seems pretty standard for about 30k miles. I would look into changing the filter that is in the transmission case. It's pretty easy to do, you can buy all the parts for fairly cheap from online OEM dealers. Just make sure you order all the o-rings and spring in the parts diagram explosion.

I would personally do a drain and fill, then change the filter, then do 2 more drain an fills, with DW-1. So basically you're doing a 3x3, but changing the filter in between. I would also look at resetting you ecu, which would clear engine and transmission adaptations. Start fresh and let the computer relearn your driving style and calculate the shift points and average acceleration speed, etc.

Also are you sure it's a transmission flare? You will notice the transmission shift down gears if that's what it detects it should do, and you will see a rise in RPM because you're dropping down a gear.

The throttle position sensor does get used to help the transmission determine when to shift, and when to lockup the torque converter, etc. Unless you have any check engine light or codes stored, I doubt there is an issue with your throttle position sensor. In drive by wire cars, they have a lot of fail safes so if any issue is present it would go into a limp home mode to prevent any issue of the vehicle accelerating on its own.

 

To answer your one question, that orange paint line would likely not come off when they had removed the drain bolt. The amount of material on the drain plug looks pretty good for 30k miles.

 

I guarantee it is a flare, watch the rpm jump then drop back down to where it should be for that gear-looks to be 300 rpm or so. You can feel it too. My 4th gen Accord had the dreaded 4 to 2 flare so unfortunately I'm all too aware of the issue. That car made it another 70k miles before it needed a rebuild but it also only had 125 hp plus whatever the usual i/h/e added.

Don't know what role shift solenoids play in downshifts but I guess that's a possibility too. Shift position sensors were replaced last fall. I am sure the filter would have been replaced with the rebuild but its worth a shot. I paid $2700 for a full master kit rebuild, a couple modifications the shop said improves reliability with Honda/Acura transmissions plus an external cooler so I'd be pretty upset if it goes out due to a flare eating up the clutch packs prematurely.

Only CEL I've had is an on and off downstream O2 sensor, inspection is due in a few months so I'm not in a huge hurry to fix it.



Shifting does feel a bit smoother after the fluid change. I have another 3 quarts on hand to do it again some time this week. Then I'll probably start on a few changes with the Redline D4 ATF. Just want to get as much of the Dexron III/additive as possible.

 

Okay, over the last few weeks I've done 3 x 3 with the DW1 and it shifts noticeably better. The flaring is mostly gone (just twice and nowhere near like it was) and it has been warm enough to have triggered it prior to the 3 drain and fills. The typical mushy double hump 2-3 upshift is significantly improved.

I am wondering that even if I supplied the DW1 ATF that maybe the person at the lube goon place might not have got the message when filling it up and just used whatever they had on hand. Only reason I used them in the first place was the fill bolt was so tight I couldn't remove it and they only charged me $20 labor. These last three I did myself. Having an aftermarket cooler really improves access to the fill bolt too.

Anyway, just ordered 9 quarts of Redline Type F racing since it doesn't contain friction modifiers so shifting should be even quicker. Funny thing is, when I was checking the reviews on Amazon, almost every single one was by someone who owned a Honda or Acura. Originally was going to do D4 but after reading through several threads I feel that Type F is going to make me happier.

 

Too much Type F will cause issues... 9qts is too much.

 

I agree too much Type F is bad. Read through IHC thread. He started to show negative results after having too much of it in his transmission.

 

Going to do 3 quarts at a time and drive it a week to see how it affects it. I just figured I'd be enough for future changes too, still have DW1 on hand, so I can use 1 or 2 of either as needed.

 

Not sure what happened but 9 quarts of Redline D4 showed up instead. Would have been a PITA to send it back, so far done a 3 x 2 with it and the improvement is very noticeable. Shift feel through all 4 up shifts feels very consistent now, haven't notice the down shift harshness or flare since adding in the D4.

 

maybe the seller knows that 9qt of type-f is no good?

 

Why would it matter since I didn't input what kind of car I have? For all they know, I was ordering it for a bracket car with a built TH-400.